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Old 04-11-2014, 06:40 AM   #1
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Originally Posted by evo-r View Post
Is "ATE Gold Brake Fluid" ....... What color is this fluid?

Ummm.... gold?
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:51 AM   #2
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Its even easier if you choose another color of brake fluid so that when you see the new color come out at the brake you know you are done.

I alternate between Gold and Blue.

Also, there are 2 bleeder nipples per wheel so do make sure you bleed both.

brake flush - YouTube
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:06 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Mark_T View Post
Ummm.... gold?
Yellow-amber- the only color now allowed to be sold..........
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:09 AM   #4
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You can find super blue now online, but the cans are now marked with "For off road use only".

Dang I just did a search and even the "for off road use only" seem to be very hard to find. I found one on eBay for $34.95.

If you use a syringe and draw as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you add the fresh fluid and start your bleed, it only takes a few ounces to flush out each of the 4 lines, and if you do some measuring you can be assured of getting the fluid fully replaced. There is an article on Boxster Register (registration required) that tells how many ounces in each line:

PCA Boxster Register

Here is an excerpt:
=========
Rear calipers: pull six(6) ounces out of each caliper, three(3) out of each bleeder valve
Front calipers: pull five(5) ounces out of each caliper, 2.5 out of each bleeder valve
This uses 20 ounces and it takes approximately 10 ounces to refill the master cylinder. This leaves me 2-3 ounces in the can for any needed top off or bleed until the next flush.
=========
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:42 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
You can find super blue now online, but the cans are now marked with "For off road use only".

Dang I just did a search and even the "for off road use only" seem to be very hard to find. I found one on eBay for $34.95.

If you use a syringe and draw as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you add the fresh fluid and start your bleed, it only takes a few ounces to flush out each of the 4 lines, and if you do some measuring you can be assured of getting the fluid fully replaced. There is an article on Boxster Register (registration required) that tells how many ounces in each line:

PCA Boxster Register

Here is an excerpt:
=========
Rear calipers: pull six(6) ounces out of each caliper, three(3) out of each bleeder valve
Front calipers: pull five(5) ounces out of each caliper, 2.5 out of each bleeder valve
This uses 20 ounces and it takes approximately 10 ounces to refill the master cylinder. This leaves me 2-3 ounces in the can for any needed top off or bleed until the next flush.
=========
I really do not understand why people persist in trying to drain the master reservoir before doing a pressure bleed and flush. The Motive system pushes out all the old fluid in the system ahead of the fresh fluid, that is one of several distinct advantages of using the pressure bleeding procedure.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:01 PM   #6
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I really do not understand why people persist in trying to drain the master reservoir before doing a pressure bleed and flush. The Motive system pushes out all the old fluid in the system ahead of the fresh fluid, that is one of several distinct advantages of using the pressure bleeding procedure.
The last time I did this on my FJ cruiser, I didn't have the syringe and so I didn't pull the old fluid out before attaching the Motive bleeder. I used super blue, and as it went into the full master cylinder it seemed to go right to the bottom and I was getting blue out of the caliper bleed screws almost immediately while the master cylinder was still 75% or more full with the old amber fluid. It seemed like it took forever for the master cylinder to get full of the blue. It was kind of weird. Since then I have suctioned out the fluid first, just make it a little easier and less time under the car. (With the Toyotas you don't have to jack them up or even take the wheel off, you can just slide under and access the bleed screw from the back of the wheel.)

Edit: I am now remembering I couldn't get the stupid universal Toyota motive adapter to hold pressure (you use chains and screws to tighten it down and I could never get a seal that would hold over 5-10 lb) so I had to use the old pedal method, and just poured the new fluid in to the master cylinder. So maybe pouring it in made it swirl around to the bottom.

Last edited by steved0x; 04-11-2014 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:35 PM   #7
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The last time I did this on my FJ cruiser, I didn't have the syringe and so I didn't pull the old fluid out before attaching the Motive bleeder. I used super blue, and as it went into the full master cylinder it seemed to go right to the bottom and I was getting blue out of the caliper bleed screws almost immediately while the master cylinder was still 75% or more full with the old amber fluid. It seemed like it took forever for the master cylinder to get full of the blue. It was kind of weird. Since then I have suctioned out the fluid first, just make it a little easier and less time under the car. (With the Toyotas you don't have to jack them up or even take the wheel off, you can just slide under and access the bleed screw from the back of the wheel.)
We probably do a dozen or more cars a week, even more "in season", all kinds of makes and models, and I have never seen the Motive system leave old fluid behind in any of them.
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Old 04-11-2014, 03:17 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
We probably do a dozen or more cars a week, even more "in season", all kinds of makes and models, and I have never seen the Motive system leave old fluid behind in any of them.
I am now remembering I couldn't get the stupid universal Toyota motive adapter to hold pressure (you use chains and screws to tighten it down and I could never get a seal that would hold over 5-10 lb) so I had to use the old pedal method, and just poured the new fluid in to the master cylinder. So maybe pouring it in made it swirl around to the bottom.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:03 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
You can find super blue now online, but the cans are now marked with "For off road use only".

Dang I just did a search and even the "for off road use only" seem to be very hard to find. I found one on eBay for $34.95.

If you use a syringe and draw as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you add the fresh fluid and start your bleed, it only takes a few ounces to flush out each of the 4 lines, and if you do some measuring you can be assured of getting the fluid fully replaced. There is an article on Boxster Register (registration required) that tells how many ounces in each line:

PCA Boxster Register

Here is an excerpt:
=========
Rear calipers: pull six(6) ounces out of each caliper, three(3) out of each bleeder valve
Front calipers: pull five(5) ounces out of each caliper, 2.5 out of each bleeder valve
This uses 20 ounces and it takes approximately 10 ounces to refill the master cylinder. This leaves me 2-3 ounces in the can for any needed top off or bleed until the next flush.
=========
This is good info for all of us.
Thanks
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