Metal Shavings Behind LN IMS Bearing - Need Advice!

[Benjamin]

Originally Posted by rp17

Benjamin, just checking in on you with your situation. Any updates?

After spending a couple of days thinking about it, I have decided to clean out the tube as best I can, install the new bearing and DOF, and reassemble. I spent about 8 hours this weekend doing just that and am waiting for the sealant and new oil plug to arrive this week. I ordered Loctite 5900, but have since read that Drei Bond is a better way to go. I am going to call the local VW dealer and see if they have it or can get it fairly quickly, otherwise I will place another online order.

In the end it turned into an economic decision. I do all of my own wrenching, short of internal engine stuff. I have done that type of work before, but never on a Porsche and I don't have the specific tools or knowledge for an engine tear down and rebuild. I could acquire the tools and knowledge, however, when rebuilding an engine there is no sense in doing just the part you think needs to be replaced, you should check and replace everything necessary from pulley end to flywheel end if you're already there. Since I would be having a shop do the work, the bill would be in the $12k range, give or take. A used 3.2 is around the $5k mark and a used 3.4 is not much more than that (what not upgrade if you can?). There is an X% chance that the metal specks were from the original IMSB and a Y% chance they were from the replacement IMSB, and a Z% chance they are from some other undiscovered source. (You can decide what values you place on X, Y, and Z, but I place a high number on X because of the location of the debris). The car was running just fine when this project began and may continue to run just fine from here on out, thus costing me $0 of engine parts/work. If it does give up the ghost, I will swap it myself and be out about $5k. I know what a lot of people will be thinking, "you have no idea what the condition of the donor engine will be and could be inviting more problems". True, but most used engines come with at least a 6 month warranty and even if the 2nd motor goes poof, I will do the same and replace it, being out another $5k ($10k total + fluids and other misc expenses). I would still be ahead of the price of a rebuild of the existing engine. That's why I chose what I did.

So, I'll install a magnetic drain plug to catch any further ferrous particles hiding on the inside, change the oil every 1000 miles, and see what happens.

[cnavarro]

Just be sure that you drop the oil pan and clean everything out if you haven't already. I'd also recommend running a flush oil for a very short period. Installation of a spin on filter adapter will prevent debris from being re-introduced to the engine after it gets in the filter. Doing all of this will give you your best chances.

[Benjamin]

Originally Posted by cnavarro

Just be sure that you drop the oil pan and clean everything out if you haven't already. I'd also recommend running a flush oil for a very short period. Installation of a spin on filter adapter will prevent debris from being re-introduced to the engine after it gets in the filter. Doing all of this will give you your best chances.

Thanks Charles, I have dropped the pan and cleaned everything out. I just ordered some Drei Bond to seal it back up and it should be here on Thursday. I like your idea of running a flush oil. I have a case of DT40 that I was going to put in to replace the Mobil 1 that was in it. I may just hang on to the DT40 and get some more Mobil 1 and run it for a short period and then drain. I have a few filters on hand, but they are the stock type. Can you explain to me why the spin on is better? The OEM version is much easier to inspect after an oil change.

Benjamin

[Jake Raby]

The Spin On filter adaptor omits the factory bypass that diverts bypass oil around the filter at start up and at times of higher than normal oil pressure. During these periods the factory filter does not filter 100% of the oil. Tis is also even more true if the factory bypass spring has lost tension due to high oil temps or time in service.

The factory filter does not filter 100% of the engines oil at all times, so any debris that is suspended in the oil will take out more components. This is especially true if you are injecting debris filled oil into the IMSB.

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

The Spin On filter adaptor omits the factory bypass that diverts bypass oil around the filter at start up and at times of higher than normal oil pressure. During these periods the factory filter does not filter 100% of the oil. Tis is also even more true if the factory bypass spring has lost tension due to high oil temps or time in service.

Does this mean that using a factory filter will have a marginal increase in engine wear over the WIX type?

p.s.
Would the IMS Guardian be of value in this situation? One where you already have debris in they system however fine.