12-12-2013, 02:54 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 36
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Intermittent Start Problem
Hello everyone,
I’m a long time lurker on this forum and am currently on my second Box. A beautiful black 99 with 32,000 miles. I had a 2000 but that’s a story for another time. Anyway, I’m having trouble locking down an intermittent starting problem that is just driving me up the wall. So far I have:
1. Replaced electrical part of ignition switch
2. Had battery tested (practically new)
3. Wired cable to cable clutch interlock switch to bypass it
My problem persists, and no, I have not experienced any wet carpets or water intrusion to my immobilizer box. Anyone have any ideas where else I can look? Thank you all for reading and any help you provide in advance. This forum rocks!
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12-12-2013, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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What are the symptoms?
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12-12-2013, 03:01 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Land of naught
Posts: 1,302
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I've read here that the Crank Position Sensor can cause starting issues.
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Death is certain, life is not.
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12-12-2013, 03:02 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 36
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All lights come on as normal. I have not lost function to any electrical item in the car. There is simply no crank. No noise, no clicks, nothing. Occasionally it will start first turn, but usually it takes several turns of the key. Locking and unlocking the car via the key fob seems to make no difference. The symptoms point me to clutch interlock, but now that I've completely bypassed I'm out of ideas.
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12-12-2013, 03:18 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Land of naught
Posts: 1,302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftguy
All lights come on as normal. I have not lost function to any electrical item in the car. There is simply no crank. No noise, no clicks, nothing. Occasionally it will start first turn, but usually it takes several turns of the key. Locking and unlocking the car via the key fob seems to make no difference. The symptoms point me to clutch interlock, but now that I've completely bypassed I'm out of ideas.
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Did you check the fuses and relays ? EG. DME relay in trunk
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Death is certain, life is not.
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12-12-2013, 06:14 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 735
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The first thing to check is all of the battery cable connections for corrosion at both ends. The starter draws a lot of current. If the connections have corrosion, there won't be enough amperage passing to turn the starter.
The starter might also be bad, they do wear out like any other part of a car.
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2000S Ocean Blue Metallic- 116K
3X Water Pump, Clear side markers, Crios Mod, Front engine mount, Flywheel, clutch, RMS, AOS, MAF, serpentine belt, power brake vacuum line, battery, 2X CV boots, Fuel filter, Oil filler tube, 3X ignition switch, 90K service, gas cap, Coolant tank
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12-12-2013, 07:00 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Land of naught
Posts: 1,302
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Check the voltage at the starter connections and compare that to the battery voltage.
__________________
Death is certain, life is not.
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12-13-2013, 05:51 AM
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#8
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Multi-Boxer Driver
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Orange Park, FL
Posts: 1,417
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I'm going to say it's either the starter solenoid or the ECU not telling the car to crank (sensor). If it was the crankshaft position sensor the car should still (in theory) crank but not start.
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-Chris
2004 Porsche Boxster 2.7 (gone )
2004 Porsche 911 C4S Cab
1991 Porsche 911 C2 Targa 3.6
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
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12-13-2013, 09:32 AM
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#9
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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After removing the engine cover so many times now it's not a big deal but wire a test light to the starter solenoid at the starter. When the problem happens see if the light lights when attempting to crank, if it lights and does not crank, it is your starter solenoid. Replace the starter assembly
Another thing you can do is to use a large punch and give the starter a good wack, if it starts your brushes are worn out and starter should be replaced or repaired
Last edited by healthservices; 12-13-2013 at 09:37 AM.
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12-13-2013, 09:33 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 54
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With a new ignition switch and battery, the only thing that could stop it from cranking would be power to the starter. Either a fuse or the starter relay in the rear.
Check the fuses first. B8, C1, C2, C3. If they are good then either the ECU isn't getting the w lead signal or the relay is broken.
To check the relay, it is number 7 in the rear relay carrier, jumper the 2 larger wires coming in, then try starting the car. If the car cranks, but no start it is the CLU not sending the w lead signal, or the ECU is broken.
If it starts, replace the relay. if there is still an issue, it is the clutch switch wiring.
With a broken CLU or ECU - time to start digging deep in the pockets.
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12-13-2013, 01:12 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 36
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You guys are spot on about it NOT being the CPS. That was the issue with my previous Box, and it would crank but not start. I will check the relays in the trunk this evening. Today it has started flawlessly since this morning.
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12-13-2013, 03:34 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Land of naught
Posts: 1,302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healthservices
After removing the engine cover so many times now it's not a big deal but wire a test light to the starter solenoid at the starter. When the problem happens see if the light lights when attempting to crank, if it lights and does not crank, it is your starter solenoid. Replace the starter assembly
Another thing you can do is to use a large punch and give the starter a good wack, if it starts your brushes are worn out and starter should be replaced or repaired
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This is an excellent idea but if the light lights and the starter doesn't- then a voltage check should still be done in order to rule out a voltage drop problem.
__________________
Death is certain, life is not.
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12-13-2013, 08:46 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,498
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Easiest this is to connect a volt meter to the battery (or into main at your fuse box) and monitor the voltage when you have the non-start condition (as well as normal starting). During non-start condition, a voltage drop when you turn the key, to ~9 to 11Vdc would indicate a bad connection or starter solenoid problem. If no drop is noted, the battery/starter circuit is not your issue and it's time to look elsewhere.
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12-15-2013, 01:46 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinyuill
With a new ignition switch and battery, the only thing that could stop it from cranking would be power to the starter. Either a fuse or the starter relay in the rear.
Check the fuses first. B8, C1, C2, C3. If they are good then either the ECU isn't getting the w lead signal or the relay is broken.
To check the relay, it is number 7 in the rear relay carrier, jumper the 2 larger wires coming in, then try starting the car. If the car cranks, but no start it is the CLU not sending the w lead signal, or the ECU is broken.
If it starts, replace the relay. if there is still an issue, it is the clutch switch wiring.
With a broken CLU or ECU - time to start digging deep in the pockets.
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Checked all the fuses under the dash, everything was good and snug with no blown fuses. I changed the cruise control switch on the clutch while I was down there as well.
Checked relay number 7, it had a small amount of corrosion on it so I cleaned it with alcohol. It has started easily since then, but since the issue is so intermittent I can't be sure that mended it.
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12-21-2013, 11:07 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 36
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Besides Porsche San Antonio, does anyone know of a good shop to take my Box to troubleshoot this problem? It did not start again on Thursday afternoon.
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09-02-2014, 02:22 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
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Hi when you turn key on ignition did you see engine check light come on, did you get it fixed what was wrong my car is doing the same thing. If my engine check light come on car starts, if no engine check light comes on car does not do anything. Please help me to figure out the problem.
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09-22-2014, 06:41 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 35
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Just started having the exact symptoms and issue, came across this thread when searching the forum... all electrical working, but turn the key and there is no crank, no response. Remove the key and repeat a few times, it eventually fires right up. Good to know I'm not the only one... Will check relay 7.
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2001 Boxster S
Arctic Silver
Black/Black
18" GT3 Design Wheels
LNE IMS
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04-15-2019, 12:59 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1
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This is really frustrating, I have been trying to nail this down and have changed the switch and bypass...now I guess its time to try the relay or dig into the pocket!!!
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04-15-2019, 04:57 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJG45458
This is really frustrating, I have been trying to nail this down and have changed the switch and bypass...now I guess its time to try the relay or dig into the pocket!!!
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DG, this is a very old tread..
But, could you please provide more details on the symptoms and what have you done troubleshooting wise?
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04-15-2019, 06:37 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SATX
Posts: 41
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My problem turned out to be a weak "positive" ground in the engine compartment. It was rusty, and if I wiggled the cable and turned the key the engine would start. Disconnect the battery. It is located in a black plastic box next to the power steering reservoir. Use a screw driver to pop the box open and a 14 mm socket to remove and clean the nut.
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2001 Base with 2002 3.2 DIY swap 97 "short shift" tip "Joe Toth" aerodynamics, Z top, painted headlights.
2001 Boxster 5 speed
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