Has anyone actually DIY chain tensioner pads?

[NewArt]

Yeah, I don't know if I want to dig that deep on my first foray. I'm thinking cam timing and tensioners, check/replace the lifters if necessary, install low temp thermostat and maybe replacing the ATF temp sensor wiring harness which has been throwing me P0710 codes (see my post elsewhere about this: D-4 lights flashing but normal shifting? - Pelican Parts Technical BBS ).
From the "if it ain't broke..." school, I know, but there's always preventative stuff to be done on an old car!

[pjq]

Tub O Towels from Canadian Tire or Lowes in USA. They have a degreasing solution in them. I used them regularly on my project and was glad to have them.

Engine stand - I bought one with a "U" base and this worked out well in combination with my ATV jack. I'm normally working alone. When it was time to install or uninstall engine to stand I just wheeled my engine (on ATV jack) in between "U" base of engine stand and transfered it to engine stand. If your ATV jack doesn't lift high enough you may have to place some blocking between engine and jack.
At the final stage of my bebuild project my son was home so we lifted the engine on and off the stand, much quicker.

[pjq]

NewArt,
just to give you an idea what your going after, below are the tensioners and guides that I replaced in my 04S.
I replaced them all even though the tensioner from the IMS to Crank was the only one that broke. The others had metal pieces embeded in their running surface.

I'm glad you liked the 2X4 brace (the art of necessity the mother of invention). What do you think of the copper drain pipe thermostat removal tool!! works slick.

[NewArt]

I can see how the "u" base could be useful. Don't seem to have it at Can Tire; trying Kijiji and others. I'm a big fan of homebuilt tools and I have access to a shop.

[NewArt]

Some of your have followed my quest for info about dropping the engine and doing a chain tensioner swap/upgrade/replacement. I have seen references to the Porsche factory chain tensioner tool 9599 which is apparently quite expensive and, if I understand correctly, unnecessary according to Wayne Dempster's book: "If you do not have this extremely expensive tool (upper right inset of Figure 24), you can tighten up the tension on the chain using the regular chain tensioner. Reinstall the tensioner completely into the bottom of the case."
So, do I do, or do I don't need this? If you have any experience with this please let me know.

[pjq]

with my rebuild we followed Jake R. method and precharged the actual chain tensioners with a heavy weight oil (pour oil into a bowl to a level that will cover the tensioner, place tensioner in bowl and with fingers squeeze tensioner in and out displacing any old oil and replacing with new heavier weight oil from bowl).

If I recall you should be able to search this sight, renntech and rennlist to find out more on this topic "chain tensioner tool 9599".

[pjq]

Newart i was thinking of you yesterday when I saw engine supports on sale at princess auto, $69 i think, good price.
Princess Auto just opened in S.J. only about 8 months late for me.

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by pjq

with my rebuild we followed Jake R. method and precharged the actual chain tensioners with a heavy weight oil (pour oil into a bowl to a level that will cover the tensioner, place tensioner in bowl and with fingers squeeze tensioner in and out displacing any old oil and replacing with new heavier weight oil from bowl).

If I recall you should be able to search this sight, renntech and rennlist to find out more on this topic "chain tensioner tool 9599".

Making sure that oil is warm, makes a huge difference.. Just warm enough to burn you and not hot enough to produce any smoke and you are just fine!

I also use a lightweight oil, not a heavy weight.