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Old 10-04-2013, 10:28 AM   #1
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Has anyone actually DIY chain tensioner pads?

I have a cam deviation of -9.13 on bank 1 and 0.62 on bank 2. Thought it was probly the cam chain tensioner pads needed changing. I've read about it and I've perused Wayne Dempsey's book but I really don't see how one can do this without dropping the engine out of the car (maybe this winter). Out of the car it seems fairly straight forward.
Does anyone have any actual experience with this?
Cheers, -James

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Old 10-04-2013, 12:29 PM   #2
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In a Boxster this can be done in the car. Its a ********************, but it can be done. With those cam deviations you should certainly change the wear pads.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:54 PM   #3
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Question

Yeah, the car's coming up on 84,000 miles so there's probably some stuff I could check out at the same time (lifters,etc). The IMSB and RMS were done by the previous owner about a year ago so that should be okay. I guess I'll check around to see how much it will cost to remove/replace the engine and transmission as I don't have a lift in my dinky garage.
Any suggestions before I get my hands dirty?
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:56 PM   #4
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If you are going to do that much work, just pull the engine.. You'll save time in the end.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:07 PM   #5
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Plus save some skin on my knuckles and flying wrenches!
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987 air intake TB and plenum, Mantissport 2 litre sump, UDP, Bilstein B6 with H&R lowering spings, re71-rs for track, other stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:47 PM   #6
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Go for it. Get the Bentley book as well.
I don't have a lift either, I removed my engine last winter, spring and ....well, I guess summer also. I had it back in and turned the key Sept 15. Anyways I jacked it up and put it on stands. It makes a great winter project.
I got to buy some tools, make some tools and use alot of tools. You will want a lift(jack) to lower the muffler, transmission and engine. I bought the sears pro atv jack, works great. Last year during Jan and Feb the sale on tools was very good.
Make sure you have patience or go find some.
I took alot of pics so if you want to see something let me know.
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:04 PM   #7
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pjq
You dropped the engine yourself?
If so I am TOTALLY in awe!
I'm willing to take on the project but that would take some pretty tall jack stands, no?
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https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:10 AM   #8
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Its not that bad if you have time. Its kinda cool how they put it all together and fit so much into such a small cavity. Its like a plug and play engine. To work comfortably under the car I had the back of the car 24 inches off the ground measuered from the rear jack point. It just so happens a 30 ton bottle screw house jack is this tall. Thats what the car is sitting on in the rear. The second picture is how high you have to lift the car to slide the engine out after you have dropped it down. That is without removing the structural cross member.



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Old 10-07-2013, 11:28 AM   #9
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Wow, that's pretty impressive! So you cranked it up to the full height with those house jacks? I guess one can rent those.
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987 air intake TB and plenum, Mantissport 2 litre sump, UDP, Bilstein B6 with H&R lowering spings, re71-rs for track, other stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:55 AM   #10
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Holy SHI* those pictures caused me severe stress and made me sweat. You sir are without fear apparently. I am afraid to do anything to this car for fear of screwing it up but you dropped your engine in your garage without a lift...you give a whole new meaning to DIYer...
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:31 PM   #11
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wrong pics

Last edited by pjq; 10-07-2013 at 04:38 PM. Reason: wrong pic
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #12
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Hahaaa, pretty crazy looking eh! It reminds me of a downhill skier in the tuck position.
I was like you afraid of my PORSCHE, didn't want to touch it. But after it had an IMSB failure ...... I had to wake up and snap out of the dream. Its a fine piece of machinery and its hot but ... it is a machine no longer hand assembled.
If you liked those pics here it is again but installing the rebuilt engine. Thats the sears craftsmen pro atv lift under the engine, great purchase.
I had 31 inches of clearance from the bottom of the structural cross member to the floor to slide the engine under the car. I could have done it with 30 inche clearance. i then lowered the car down to the bottom of the house screw jacks (24 inches) then jacked the engine, very slowly due to clearance, back up into its cavity (2 person job or 4 eyes, 6 eyes better).
The original idea was to screw the car up to the required height using the jacks BUT great plans don't always work in practice. The car is relatively light compared to a 10 - 20ton lift, so as I turned the jack the top swivel surface of the jack did not swivel BUT the car started to rotate as I rotated the screw!!!!( so i went to plan B. Plan B was using a 3 ton hydraulic jack ontop of wood blocking lifting on the black structural cross member. I placed a piece of wood in between the top of the 3t jack and the base of the structural cross member. The car is not heavy because the engine is not in it yet so the cross member can handle it.
The screw jacks make for a very sturdy support, much better than the 3t car jacks I have.


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Old 10-07-2013, 04:46 PM   #13
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Reminds me of my old VW days. Only 6 bolts held the engine in. Course the engine was behind the transaxle. You could drop in an hour.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:41 PM   #14
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PJQ: But the first time you jacked that thing up to the ceiling there was an engine in it. Did you use that same method that you just described?
.
JCB986 - And the cylinders just bolted on. Cracked cylinder? No sweat, just swap in a new one!
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987 air intake TB and plenum, Mantissport 2 litre sump, UDP, Bilstein B6 with H&R lowering spings, re71-rs for track, other stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:52 PM   #15
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Great pics pjq!
Sure, the Box is an incredible, beautiful automobile, but it's still just that.. a car with an engine.
This car definitely doesn't need to be babied!

If things go as planned I will be in a similar position with my car this winter. It looks very doable to get in there and drop that tranny.
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:10 AM   #16
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NewArt, both times I jacked the car to the ceiling, haaaa, the engine was already lowered. You just jack it this high to slide the engine out/in from under the car because I didn't want to remove the cross member (rear axle support).
For me removing the rear axle support might have opened another can of worms? I was just trying to keep it as simple as possible. I also didn't like the idea of losing my left to right integrity.
That being said removing the rear axle support you don't have to jack the car nearly as high and it would possibly make the process easier and quicker.

I followed the Bentley and 101 Projects books its laid out step by step and also these forums.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:05 AM   #17
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Ahh, I see. Clear as beer!
Nt sure what you mean by L/R integrity. Figure the car would split open laterally?
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https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:22 PM   #18
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No I don't think it would split open but may it rack/twist or spread slightly??
The bentley book shows the procedure with the support removed. 101 Projects shows the project with the support in.
I read somewhere, 101 projects website I think, that wayne recommends if you do remove the support be sure to get a four wheel alignment.
I also saw an engine installation on line where they are using a come-a-long to pull the sides back together so as to be able to install the axle support, so on that note I guess the sides must have moved some?
For me temporarily jacking the car up higher was not an issue but removing the cross member structure was an unknown that may have issues. I had a failed engine (IMSB and metal throughout the engine)but I didn't know just how extensive it was at that time, I didn't need any more unknowns.

As a side note - when i removed the exhaust sytem it come out quite easily, 1 piece. After sitting to the side for 5 months when i went to install it back in its place it wouldn't fit width wise. In that time period, 5 months, it had sprung out, approx. 1 inch. Just enough I could not get it into position. I had to use 2 ratchet straps to very slowly pull it back together then place it into position and secure it.

So if you did remove the axle support I would put it back immediately after the engine was slide out from under the car.
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:23 AM   #19
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Yes, you're probably right. When I removed the aluminum plate that covers the transmission and had removed the diagonal support bars in order to get it out, I had a bit of a time getting them back into place because the bolts were displaced about 1/2" within half an hour.
I have the 101 book and Amazon should be ringing my door soon with the Bentley's.
Still a couple of weeks before the snow flies here in Montreal. Figured I may attack this project in November. I'll try to gather the necessities in the meantime.
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2004 986 S
987 air intake TB and plenum, Mantissport 2 litre sump, UDP, Bilstein B6 with H&R lowering spings, re71-rs for track, other stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:27 AM   #20
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BTW, this link shows someone using a support bar: Project NUTROD
did you use one? I guess this is for security?

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987 air intake TB and plenum, Mantissport 2 litre sump, UDP, Bilstein B6 with H&R lowering spings, re71-rs for track, other stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/user/12shoes2
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