haz....
I agree with what thom4782 says in the above post - you want to be absolutly clear from the repair shop that all the metal that was found in the oil pan has not been pumped round the engine causing untold damage. Looking at your pics, the amount of metal is disturbing - even if it is alloy and not steel. I'd like to know how the repair shop can get rid of any metal still floating round the engine block.
In any event, the debris will have scored the oil pumps (all 3 of them), probably the plain metal bearings (camshafts, IMS plain bearing at rear of engine, big end & mains) and as thom says, potential blockage of the miriad of oil passageways throughout the engine.
I wonder if the repairer will give you any guarantee that the engine has not been compromised with what they have found in the filter and oil pan - I bet not??

Shop can't guarantee anything without a complete disassembly

You have all the answers :)

Thanks for sharing your experience haz.

You seem to be well on the right track, keep up the good work

Good luck Haz. If it were me in your situation, as a preventative measure I would change the oil and filter in your motor within 500 miles or so of getting your car back from the repair shop.

I am not going to give you an ear full over all the metal shown in the pictures, but being proactive about flushing anything left over that is floating / moving around inside the motor would help out in it's long term health.

Lubro-Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush (500 ML) : Amazon.com : Automotive

Thanks both of you :)

And yes, I have the exact same game plan. Once they have flushed the engine two/three times and also changed the filter twice - after letting it idle for at least 30 mins, it Will be getting the last oilchange. THEN, I Will return to the shop after 1500 or maybe 2000 km to change the oil and filter again :)

It was all included in the price :)

IMO it sounds like they know what they are doing, and you will have a great ride back soon! :cool:

Yes they Are. Porsche and BMW specialists. People bring their engines from all over northern Europe to have them fixed up there.

https://www.facebook.com/Ssperformance.norway

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SSP | SS Performance

since when the European cannot read the Porsche technical books. they are free and for download everywhere on the internet we have them in French also. anybody can fix engine anywhere in Europe haz what are you talking about. actually we don't anymore we prefer buying a second hand engine :D

when are you going buy your engine if not this week? my friend if you order one now maybe it will arrive on time for when your repair man engine explode soon or later

That made so much sense. I'll have them call you monday so you can explain to them how things work in Europe.

I'm waiting to see the bearing pics. My take is if the car is running and the cost of this repair is not significant as the prior owner paid for half, I think you're fine. I would buy a magnetic oil drain plug and change the oil three or four times a year until you stop seeing particles in the oil for two or three changes in a row. You may get a life time of good service from this engine or you may not, just drive and enjoy.

Good luck,

Btw what's with all the references to Tits.

Agreed. Will be picking it up today after work, drive home (200 miles) and will be doing a new oilchange & filter in a few days. There should be *knock on wood* little to no metal particles left. They have flushed the engine several times now, changing the oil filter every time.

So, fearing I might start a huge debate.. which oil? SSP recommends Castrol Edge 0W40 Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 | Features and Recommended Engines | Castrol EDGE (it's a 2000 - 2,7L)

Bravo! happy for you haz, but half happy for your boxster. hope it all work ok

for the oil just use the Porsche recommended

I use Mobile 1 5W40 for what it's worth. No issues here, knock on wood! Lots of debates on this forum for oil recommendations. Looking forward to your updates and hoping it works out with no further issues:cheers:

SO !!

The day I had been looking forward to was finally here, I borrowed a second car from work and drove the 100 miles (not 200 as previosuly stated) to pick it up at SSP, with my brother so that he could drive that car back to Oslo again.

Started it and made that beautiful sound again :D BUT... yes, there´s a but.. (hopefully no biggie) - the light for D in the dash blinks (same interval as an indicator does) while in Drive. As opposed to staying lit. Also the lighs for the different gears 1-5 does are not on at all. After a little Googling I decided it was safe to drive off. (The shop had closed 2 hrs earlier) and 1 hour into the drive and no problems. Then, the D light suddenly changed to stay lit - then started blinking again... Turned off the highway as the power from the engine sort juddered a little. Turned the engine off and on. Did a little driving on some backroads, and no problems - but still blinking in Drive (does not blink when in Park / Reverse / Neutral).

Just came back home now. A little anti climax he he .. but I did some more Googling and there could be different issues to be dealt with. More on that tomorrow, so tired and will turn in soon.

And will also take pics + post them here from the bearing as promised! :)

Thanks :cheers:

Half thanks I guess :) (joking..)

its just a car haz. friendship is more important. hard time for you I know so sorry about my save euro people post above

he he.. mate, no worries :cheers:

Time to get back up on that rooftop and start drinking again Haz..........:eek:

You seem to be taking all of these issues in stride, I like your attitude. :cheers:

I believe Castrol has the Titanium version Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 | Castrol For You
which is available for you. I can't get it state side (California).

As such, I use the non-synthetic Kendal 20w50, with Titanium and extra zddp. That will cause a huge debate also.

Very glad your baby is running sweet. Run her (him?) long and hard!!