Ok I´m getting nauseous at this point... but thanks, I guess

I need my engine number first, this sticker on my passenger doorside didn´t help much (there was no sticker on the drivers doorside)

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/3059/dtln.jpg

I see wear metals from at least two different components in these pictures.

Some day I want to come back to Earth reincarnated as either Patrick Long or Jake Raby.....I just haven't figured out which one yet.:)

Great.. any more detailed info than that?

Here is a post on RENNTECH with some information on the location of the engine serial number. Good luck, hope the news gets better:cheers:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32795-engine-serial-%23s/

Got it, thanks. So I guess I have to raise the car to locate the enginenumber..

This is the sticker under the bonnet so my engine number is M9622-65YA8605-13

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6876/vh3w.jpg

So looking at this article from Pelican parts list to determine if it either single or double rod bearing, it´s eiter this:

Up to engine # M 651 12851 Boxster 2.7L M96.22 (Double Row Bearing)

or this

From engine # M 651 12852 Boxster 2.7L M96.22 (Single Row Bearing)

And since my number is 8605, am I right to assume I have the single row bearing?

I meant it has a proper service history and track record from new, if you see what has been done to from new. The exception, and this looks like a big one, abviously is that it didn´t get at least two or three oilchanges during mentioned 27 months. I totally agree on that point!

I believe you have to get the engine number off the block. I'm not 100% certain, but I think the number(s) you're quoting are the engine code combined with the transmission code. Look on the block.

Ok the inside of that filter is UGLY! I would be shopping another motor at this point. The grenade has gone off and changing the IMS at this point is probably not worth the trouble. YMMV

:ah:

M9622 -65YA - your engine is an M96
A8605-13 - your transmission is a Tiptronic

You'll have to get the engine number from the block.

TO

Haz, If I remember correctly it was on the passenger side (USA version) of the motor and I had to clean the smooth portion of the block on the lowest section of the motor to read it with s degreaser or thinner of sorts, the numerals are of the stamped sort with multiple pin stamps per. Once you get under there and look around and rub with a towel it should become obvious.

Haz, so much trouble to arrive at the same at the end. Washing your engine block with rags won't fix your car. Here in France used Boxster engines are $3000 so maybe you should think about importing one from FR and move on with it.

I don't think the IMS change @ $2,500 is worth it anymore these days ;)

A lot of convinced minds thinking that throwing the engine as far as possible by judging the filter... IMHO, I will make up my mind after Porsche Center Oslo has looked at both the particles and engine. Most likely they've come across this before and will be the most qualified to provide a sensible advice on what action to make next.

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Madmods: I think you misunderstood his comment. He was refering to my previous question on where to find the engine number, then a different member advised to clean a certain part of the block to uncover the number.
I'm not in the mood for a comedian atm, thanks :)

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The way you talk to me makes me wonder if you think I don't know the engine is in a bad state. All I'm saying is that only after a mechanic has properly looked at it Will he be qualified to provide an advice on what action to do next. Rebuild or replacement engine. I think that part of this thread is ended now. Will make an update when I know more later. Thanks for all advice.

haz - you are doing the correct thing.
Disregard some people who just lately are stirring the pot on something they have not experienced themselves.
All our combined hearts go out to you as non of us want to be in your predicament.

Please keep us posted on what the OPC Oslo / mechanic's opinion is regarding the metal particals in your filter.

Thank you! Much obliged. I won´t give up on this car, just knowing it most certain has a terminal flaw, made me fall in love with my Boxster all over again.. Had to go for a quick walk just to take its picture, in all of its glory... :(

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/5973/yzkx.jpg

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I´ll make up my mind after talking to PCO. If I decide on a rebuild, they offer a warranty (and so does SSP which are a know company for doing Porsche rebuilds) http://www.ssperformance.no/en/porsche.html

If I import a used engine, I don´t want to go through the hassle of removing the engine and send it back to use my warranty.. Then I´d probably get one from around here.

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I can certainly understand the lack of humor at this stage.

Easy for someone on the other side of a keyboard to attempt to make light of the situation, while you are dealing with a pit in your stomach and a hole in your wallet.

Looking at your filter pix -- I'm not hopeful.
Next stage is to check to see if the cams are still in alignment and if not
use a boroscope through the spark plugs to see if you have any
valve to piston strikes.

You could also check the crankshaft to chain tensioner paddle --
I think you have to lock the engine at TDC and go through the chain tensioner paddle hole (don't try this without someone that knows how to time these engines)

Some late 98's might have also suffered from D-chunk failures -- but I believe you said yours was still running fine -- so you're not having a D-chunk and running (at least not for very long)

With that much debris floating around the engine -- even if you "fix" your IMS.
you will not have fixed the engine.

I fear at best you have a tear down, diagnose, clean out and rebuild .

I'll be happy to be wrong,

Mike

Thanks Mike, yes the engine sounds very healthy and never gave any sign of being ill. Pulls nicely through all gears and no bad noises.

As I do not have a garage nor tools / skills, I´ll have to let an approved Porsche shop do this. Looks like you know your way around these motors :)

I´ll keep this thread updated at all times, as others most likely will experience this in the future and it could work as a reference to some..

Haz,

Best of luck to you. Let us know how you make out.

-kjc

Thank you! Much obliged.

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I don´t always understand what you are saying, Madmods, but you obviously seem to have the best intentions :cheers:

Tomorrow is a new week, new possibilities :)

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The car will be flat bedded to SS Performance Wednesday morning and they will examine the metal particles and the sump +++ to give me a diagnostics and a price for the job that needs to be done.
Porsche Center Oslo were not able to take deliver of my particles to have them further examined, unfortunately.

SS Performance claims that a rebuild, if I'm lucky and have intact rod bearings etc, I'm looking at $11500. They had a Boxster in atm that had complete failure and needed a 100% rebuild. If I need this, which I most likely do not since my engine still runs and his didn't (meaning that not all internal parts are destroyed), I'l shop for a second hand engine.

So, a sudden change of events.. Now, I talked to a mechanic at Porsche Center Oslo over the phone right when they opened for the day @ 09:00 and told them about my metal particles in my oilfilter. Right after lunch I talked with the same guy. He said that metal partciles in the oilfilter after 27 months on the same oil is perfectly normal.. My "situation" had been their lunch topic! "So, you don't even want to see my car and check it out??" I asked.... nope, if it sounds nice when running, don't bother.

Guess you didn't expect that, Madmods.

Anywho, I will still be flatbedding the Boxster to SSP on wednesday for a diagnostic. Just wanted to let you in on the new info..

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What I meant was, I guess you didn't expect the Porsche Center to turn down a potential huge job and plenty $$$, I quote; if you go at the dealer your wallet and your mind will be in a worst state than your engine. .. then a lot of talk about how much they will be screwing me at the dealer.. ;)

I also did some Googling on second hand engines
Independent Porsche Specialist Van Zweeden | Porsche spare parts | Porsche service and repair | New and Used Porsche parts | Porsche onderdelen

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A few small aluminum flakes in the oil filter indicate minor if not normal wear.

Since aluminum particles are relatively soft, any that bypass the filter and circulate around the engine, if they are tiny, may not do much damage BUT Magnetic particles are hard steel or iron and very detrimental to EVERYTHING inside the engine and having these circulate around the engine will do damage to bearings and other parts which will in turn quickly cause the engine to have problems and then fail completely.

The failure can cause considerable damage and render an engine unrepairable and require replacement.

If it were my engine, I would expect it to fail soon and I would be looking for another engine to replace it since the cost of a rebuild is so high in your area.

Other wise I have a shop take it apart immediately to see if it is still repairable with a partial or full overhaul before something devastating happens internally.

Any mechanic that thinks its OK to have you drive your car with magnetic particles of that magnitude in you oil filter is just plain wrong and giving BAD advice.

I would not let THAT mechanic touch your car as he if full of crap advising you that what you are seeing in your oil is OK.

I know you prefer the good news from that mechanic, but ..

Best of luck to you.

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Madmods, you make me laugh. I like that :)

Haz, first of all, my sympathies. Have you pulled the oil filter, or had a mechanic do it, as Jake suggested and checked the filter intake to see if any metal particles are present? If any are and they are ferrous then you know metal has been introduced to the engine internals via the bypass port. In which case the only way to determine the extent of the damage is a complete engine teardown.

Checking the engine this way will be the least expensive way to do a prediagnosis of the engine state and might help you defray the cost of a replacement (i.e. used) engine. I put it this way as what is in the sump is less important than what has gone through the bypass port and been introduced to the engine internals.

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