Ignition Switch Replacement: HOLY CRAP!!!

[evo-r]

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker

Yes - did you think it was anything else - unless its the steering wheel lock which needs you to wriggle the wheel to engage the key....?

Yes, first thing I try was wriggling the steering wheel which didn't help... Time to get a new switch, hope there won't be too much cursing during the replacement. Thanks guys!

[steved0x]

The steps in this thread are very good, and I just replaced my switch using these instructions. Taking out the left side vent and the headlight switch really opened things up and let me see. I was able to do the entire job without crawling under the dash with the exception of putting back on the AC vent tube. I used this 33 piece precision screwdriver set from harbor freight:

Precision Screwdriver Set - 33 Piece

http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html



It has a long flexible extension arm where you turn the base and the tip turns. And it also had the right size torx bits as well as a tiny flathead attachment for this job.




Here is a picture. It is kind of blurry so I outlined it in white. For loosening the set screws I was able to do it through the ac vent, and for tightening them back a reached under the dash. (If I were to do it again I would go under the dash both times as it was easier)


The hardest part of the job was trying to get a flashlight to point so I could see when both hands were busy holding the two ends of the screwdriver. I wished I would have had one of these head light attachment headbands(and I do now for next time)

Headlamp with Swivel Lens

I also got my switch from the same seller in the link earlier in the thread and it worked great.

Don't be afraid of this job like I was, it is not that hard. And get 2 switches and keep on in the car; my last switch was replaced just over a year and less than 10,000 miles ago.

Steve

[evo-r]

Thank you Steve for the tips!

It seems like these ignition switches failed quite often? Any reason why? Due to poor aftermarket parts? Is "Meyle" a good brand?

[MitchSF]

There seem to be several variations of this part on eBay. Is there one in particular that tends to be more reliable, either OEM or aftermarket?

[steved0x]

I think it is just the nature of the part to fail from time to time. If you go to a dealership they will most likely want to replace the whole lock assembly which uses an updated electrical switch portion (for major $$$ probably). The original switch isn't even available as a Porsche part # anymore and you have to get it aftermarket.

I am always gentle with mine and have only 2 house keys on the key ring with it; some folks have none because they want no extra weight hanging.

I think mine failed this time because I muscled it too hard one time by mistake.

If I had to change it again it would go much faster. Don't be afraid. This is the first car I have ever worked on and this forum helped me lots.

Steve

[Spinnaker]

I disassembled my last broken switch to see what was going on inside of it, out of curiosity. The problem. as I see it, is that it is made out of plastic, and there is a lot of tension on it from the spring inside. The thin plastic parts fatigue from the constant use, and fail. Plastic doesn't like to be under constant stress. It is OK for decorative items, but anything that gets stressed constantly will eventually fail. The thinner the cross section, the sooner it will fail.
Updating to the newer ignition switch assembly doesn't seem to help. There have been posts about them failing also.
I have resigned myself to treating the ignition switch as a maintenance and wear item, like tires, brakes, clutches, etc. It's not so bad to do once you have replaced it the first time and they are cheap enough if you get them from the online parts places. Just buy enough of them to last for awhile and to be sure you have one when you need it. I always have one in the car with the proper tools the do the job anytime, anyplace, anywhere it may happen again. I have no doubt that it will happen to me again. I am on my third switch.
Just curious if the VW and Audi guys have the same problem (same switch).

edit: Just did a search for Audi ignition switch problems and the Net is full of posts with the same problems we have. Guess we are all in the same boat.

[1080Z]

The tiny screwdriver I used came in a sunglass repair kit. Cost a few bucks at a Gibson's discount store. I used my left hand leaving my right arm hanging to get a better angle.

[jakeykev]

Hi guys, looking for some help and advice here.

I'm trying to replace the ignition switch on my Boxster. I've had the car for 4 years and it's not really had any issues until last week when the electricial system has gone a bit mad.

Done some research and decided I want to change the ignition switch so took off side vent and the A/C ducting and got a look at the switch.

It looks like the previous owner has perhaps the replaced the switch as the two litte grub screws and in bad shape with the heads of them chewed to the point where I cant really get a grip with a small screwdriver.

Looking for some advice on how to remove them or what best course of action will be.

Car is a 97 Boxster.

Thanks

[jcslocum]

I used my 1/4" drive set to get at it from the AC vent. This tool might allow you to apply some extra pressure to get a bite on the top of the screw head. Get some new screws to replace them! This will have to be done again....

[Brahhh]

Originally Posted by barkinfool

Had the same challenge. I had tried a couple different jeweler-type flat screwdrivers, but I couldn't get enough leverage to torque it out. Home Depot guy says, have you thought about wrapping the handles with duct tape so you get additional torque?! Felt like an idiot, such a simple solution & gosh that makes perfect sense. Go home, worked like a charm & anybody thinking mechanic should stop & try this. Immediately came out, no issue, same mechanic paint deal was no problem once I got a bit more torque. Hope this helps someone now or in future.

The DucTape worked great!!!
Pull the driver side vent, too. That help a lot.

98 Boxster, 42k miles and still counting.

[p3230]

I opened the top on mine and took the drivers seat out about an hour and a half job as it's the third time I do it.

[Gelbster]

There is a long thread elsewhere that proposed the use of "thumb screws" to replace the stock screws.This allows easy use of just your finger tips to remove and refit the switch... & the next switch ..& the
The size thumb screw required is M4 x 0.7 x 10mm but 20mm is also mentioned.
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/951946-ignition-switch-replacement-tip-2.html
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Screws-Shoulder-Metric-Thread-Knurled/dp/B01H0EFKD0

[chammond]

I just did this yesterday after a day of weird electrical issues and a key that was acting strange when trying to remove it. I lost my wipers, heated seats, rear defrost, etc and the car wouldn't fully turn of when the key was removed as if stuck in the aux position.

I will say that having the right length screwdriver is essential. I also cut a small flathead screwdriver in half as kjc2050 did (his image below and is similar to what I used) after trying several small screwdrivers. Nothing else would allow me to get the screwdriver in the proper position so I wasn't rounding off the slot of the screw. Once I had the right tool, it was simple to swap this out.

All fixed...

Originally Posted by kjc2050

New switch is installed and works perfectly, 24 hours after my initial post.

All in all, what seemed like a nightmare turned out to be not all that bad. I wouldn't rate it in my Top 10 Experiences of All Time, but it beats getting a root canal or having your mother in law visit for a week.

For the record, I'm about 5'9", weigh about 165 lbs, and am right handed.

A few thoughts:

Finding the right screwdriver is essential. I started out with a "standard" hardware store mini flat blade screwdriver, and it just looked like it would be impossible to use. In retrospect, I was right. I went to an Ace Hardware and looked at every small screwdriver they had. Just as I was about to give up, I noticed a cheap 4 blade plastic screwdriver with a pocket clip selling for the princely sum of $2.99 (first pic).

I cut the handle in half with a coping saw, and then trimmed one of the pieces further; the 2nd pic shows what I used for this project.

Also, as I think someone pointed out, the factory paints each screw with red lacquer. You need to scrape off the lacquer to make any progress. As you try to find the slot in the screw, you'll end up removing the lacquer.

I did the screw on the console side first. (Keep in mind I'm right handed.) Holding the cut down screwdriver in my right hand and cocking my hand backward, I was able to get the first screw backed off fairly easily. The whole thing took about two minutes. The underside of my right forearm pressed against the lower edge of the dash quite a bit, and got scraped up as a result. No biggie, however.

The door-side screw was harder. I had to push deeper into the footwell before I could get the screwdriver oriented properly. Eventually, after a few minutes of trying, I caught the slot in the screw and was able to turn it a few turns. Tugging on the old switch, it was clear it was ready to come off.

I actually used my left hand to pull the switch: it seemed I had a bit more leverage with that hand.

The new switch installed quite easily. Please note that the switch can only go in one way: one of the tabs is thicker than the other. Tightening the console side screw was easy. For the other screw, I again had to push as deeply into the footwell as I could (my clutch pedal was hitting my forehead) so I could see the edge of the tab the screw is in and occasionally glimpse the screw itself. I HELD THE SCREWDRIVER WITH MY LEFT HAND and in two attempts was able to tighten that screw. (I turned the screwdriver with my left hand as I kept it in place/applied pressure with my right index finger.) YMMV, but using my left hand proved to be easier when installing that screw.

Next I reinstalled the electrical connector and heating/cooling duct, and the new switch works perfectly. Oh - I forgot to mention that I used a small LED "flashlight" for the project, sometimes resting it on the brake and clutch pedals, sometimes holding it in one of my hands. An LED headlamp would be much, much better!!

As with all difficult projects, taking your time and making sure you don't get frustrated is important. Hope this helps someone else!!

[lkchris]

Yes, the Porsche special tool collection contains a screwdriver specifically for this application.

Can't recall whether I got this from Wiha or from ECS Tuning, but it wasn't expensive.

[dghii]

All good stuff! Would have loved to try the duct tape method. I've done 5 ignition switches (not in the same Boxster, thank goodness!).

1. I cut down a jewelers screw driver and used JB weld to make some wings to give my additional torque.

2. Remove vent duct under the steering column to remove the ignition switch screw on passenger side.

3. Remove drivers side AC vent and duct to access the drivers side screw. Remove switch through the vent opening.

I'm down to 20-30 minutes without breaking a sweat!

[oldskool73]

Had to do this today, was pretty easy from underneath with a small palm ratchet like this:

[dghii]

Got one of those no but like the thumbscrew idea!

[tommydorsey]

Quick question, possibly a stupid one. The key in our 2000 turns pretty slowly, feels like it's in thick syrup. I gather from this thread that the switch is the issue, but - replacing the switch does not mean a new key, correct? It doesn't seem like it from the posts, but wanted to make sure.

Thanks,

Jim

[PaulE]

Replacing the electrical switch portion behind the key lock does not require a new key, lock or other expensive stuff to be replaced. But I'm not confirming your diagnosis that you need just the new electrical switch. It sounds like it could well be, but I'm not a certified auto professional!

[Xpit77]

I used this.The driver separates from the tip caddy and has a light too.