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Old 10-17-2012, 10:17 AM   #21
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Looks like that filter could use a clean! Which sucks because it was bear to get that thing in there!!! lol

Can't see any part numbers!

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Old 10-17-2012, 10:26 AM   #22
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Jaykay, the bolt in the top of the picture secures the box to the fire wall.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:28 AM   #23
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Dyno booked for tomorrow morning.

Hey I'm wiping down my engine now, feeling embarrassed !!!!

Can I put a hose pipe in there ? Never washed it before.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:46 AM   #24
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Dyno booked for tomorrow morning.

Hey I'm wiping down my engine now, feeling embarrassed !!!!

Can I put a hose pipe in there ? Never washed it before.
yes you can wash it.
just don't use high pressure with the hose.
once you done, take her for a spin and get the engine to operating temperature.
that will dry her out. :dance:
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:25 AM   #25
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Jaykay, the bolt in the top of the picture secures the box to the fire wall.
Thanks.....I was talking about the other end of the box, inside of the engine bay near the MAF housing
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:47 AM   #26
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Clean again

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Old 10-17-2012, 12:04 PM   #27
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Clean again

man you are fast.
and that's while replying my emails
see you Sunday mate.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:20 AM   #28
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Clean again

@blair,

Good job on the install. I am right there with ya. But have to ask….isn't the intake tube "collapsed" a little coming from the Throttle Body? It looks "flattened out" in the pic, is that right?

I also gleened some information, thanks @sparker, that may help with airflow over the MAF…that is using a "honeycomb" to straighten out the airflow. In most cars the intake does not twist and turn quite as much. This "honeycomb" filter is like a bunch of little straws that force turbulent air down the "straight and narrow". This results in more dense airflow throughout the width of the intake.

Here is a thread about how it works (it is for V-8 guys - so don't get your Box panties in a wad).

100mm Maf kickin my Butt!!! - HP Tuners Bulletin Board

Another member used this when increasing the size of the intake tubing to 4". Anyone else used this?
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:47 AM   #29
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Blue line today

Red Baseline ?
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:48 AM   #30
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I have a dyno from earlier @ 225. With age I can't quite remember the time line but I think 225 was with 91 octane fuel and 229 was with 93. Both with the chip from "Powerchip".
Never did a baseline before that, which was sad because I don't think the chip did much. Any how it did give me a base line for future mods.

Since last Dyno I did the following :

Pedro's engine mount (mine was toast)

BMC Air Fliter

Fabspeed Cat-Backs

Pedro's Throttle Body and Chip.

BBI under drive pulley

Giving me a gain of 11.7 hp at the wheels, about 14 hp at the crank.

Today in Atlanta it was 66 degrees and 93% humidity. I did the dyno last year around this time, but can't remember the weather. One more thing I just drove back from Texas and don't remember what Octane I used at every stop! I was at a 1/4 tank when I filled up at BP with 93 before dyno.
So did the original chip work ? Did I have some 91 octane in the tank ? 93% humidity ??? Weather last year ?
Lots of variables to say the least. I think I'll will go back after another tank of gas, on a 50% humidity day and cross out that those varibles, just for piece of mind. Either way I'm up to 284hp (15% loss = 241hp) and a nice flat power band. The Dyno guy was impressed, he had a 2001 S in 215 hp !!
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:53 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=Homeboy981;309696]@blair,

Good job on the install. I am right there with ya. But have to ask….isn't the intake tube "collapsed" a little coming from the Throttle Body? It looks "flattened out" in the pic, is that right?


It could be better and I'll take suggesttions but there is so little room to make a 90' turn coming out of the TB before you hit the rim of the engine bay. There was a small tab on that rim...I ground it off...needed that 1/2' !!

TB won't rotate any lower to miss the rim. So yes a little restricted.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:09 AM   #32
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thanks for the update Blair.
a little bit disappointment that the numbers are so much apart then what is posted on the Pedro website. (+30HP)
with that said, he dose recommend a use of high performance exhaust system for best results.
i think ill give it a try anyway.
the plan as i mentioned earlier, is to go catless.
i think i will run a dyno as it is today (TS bypass pipe and de shnork)
and once again after installing:
the full thechnopwoer2 kit
UDP
headers
modified exhaust.
if ill get +20, its worth it.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:50 AM   #33
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thanks for the update Blair.
a little bit disappointment that the numbers are so much apart then what is posted on the Pedro website. (+30HP)
with that said, he dose recommend a use of high performance exhaust system for best results.
i think ill give it a try anyway.
the plan as i mentioned earlier, is to go catless.
i think i will run a dyno as it is today (TS bypass pipe and de shnork)
and once again after installing:
the full thechnopwoer2 kit
UDP
headers
modified exhaust.
if ill get +20, its worth it.
The way I read this is he's got 26+WHP from stock (which is well over 30BHP from the stock 250BHP). The Fabspeed might help a bit by deleting the secondary cats, but I doubt the muffler has any bearing on performance. This actually appears to be a worthwhile mod. Not cheap, but if $1500 gets close to a 26WHP gain without altering drivability or emissions...then it's not horrible either. A 986 with 280ish on tap is going to feel very lively indeed. That about 10lbs per hp as opposed to over 11lbs per hp for stock.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:11 PM   #34
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It's a 550 anniversary....so he started with the factory quoted number of about 260 or so
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:12 PM   #35
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[QUOTE=blair206;309732]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeboy981 View Post
@blair,

Good job on the install. I am right there with ya. But have to ask….isn't the intake tube "collapsed" a little coming from the Throttle Body? It looks "flattened out" in the pic, is that right?


It could be better and I'll take suggesttions but there is so little room to make a 90' turn coming out of the TB before you hit the rim of the engine bay. There was a small tab on that rim...I ground it off...needed that 1/2' !!

TB won't rotate any lower to miss the rim. So yes a little restricted.
@Blair, Good post! Good info…and a bit of a reality check for me since I thought we would GAIN more HP from those mods. Again, that is Mfr. promises vs. ACTUAL WHP. I understand.

Seems to me if the airflow is straightened out a bit it may help. Have you tried a 45 degree up to that TB? You ARE USING a 4" (or 102mm) tubing, right? It seems you may get more clearance by going across instead of over. Just an opinion - it may not work. That is where I am with that. Also, the honeycomb mod is SUPPOSED to straighten airflow which would allow the MAF better calculations. It is not a "sawtooth" looking linear chart and more straight line (see thread below for more clarification - it's long but enlightening).

Also, are you using the ENTIRE 3" x 5" area (where the snork used to be) as the "intake pipe" or it that air being further reduced?

Keep up the good posts, very educational!
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Last edited by Homeboy981; 10-18-2012 at 12:51 PM. Reason: left something out
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:22 PM   #36
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12 hp gain at the wheels. realise that 5 of that is UDP, which means 7 hp from cat back, tb/plenum, tune. that's a lot of lettuce for 7 hp.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:03 PM   #37
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I think after market headers with sports cats would up the number. I've steered clear of those because of cost and drone.

Also my gain is 20/13 hp. If we believe we lose 15% power from crank to wheels.

Stock was 264 hp at the crank = 224 hp at the wheels.
Moded is 284 hp at the crank = 241 hp at the wheels.

Don't forget the car does have 55,000 miles on it to. I don't it would still be putting out 264 hp on 93% humidity day.

The car is noticably faster and sounds great. I don't regret doing the mods, most I did myself and had fun doing them. But I am thinking of getting new headers now !! lol
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:26 PM   #38
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Nice write up, thank you.




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