Yep, I have one for my 5 years of ownership with every service, part and accessory documented - with $$ spent. It’s password protected, and my wife does not have the password [emoji6]


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Wisely, you did not include $$$ spent!

Lol, thats why I did not include the costs also, mine would freak out if she knew how much I spent, even though I call it hers!


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Today the 997 shifter went in, excellent improvement!

My spreadsheet doesn’t include $ either.......

-Eric

Now you’ll need the Phenix shifter bushings for an even better improvement. :)

Tried to reset these cursed emissions monitors for the 1000'th time. Drive cycles are hard. :(

I have used the following a couple of times successfully;


Do you know what monitors are showing as not ready? If you have an OBDII reader you can plug it in and it will show you what monitors are not ready. I had a problem with my Oxygen sensor monitor and followed this drive cycle and it cleared..GOOD LUCK!


Below we outline the driving pattern you'll need to perform in order to get your Porsche's OBD-II emission monitors to become READY or COMPLETE. Perform the entire drive cycle. Completing only one portion of the drive cycle will not make the particular monitor which you're trying to make READY complete. The entire drive cycle must be performed every time you attempt the set any of the monitors.

Porsche 911 Drive Cycle - OBDII Emission Monitor Reset Procedure

Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Porsche's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle. Take extra caution when perform the Porsche drive cycle on public roadways. if you think you will be unable to safely perform the drive cycle please seek assistance from an experienced Porsche mechanic or smog check repair center.

A. Start your Porsche 911 and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

I followed the instructions provided by the San Diego PCA Tech Advisor and it worked

Drive in 10 minute cycles 1400-2800 Rpm in 5-6 gear as slow as you can drive in light traffic.
If you stop or go out of RPM range the cycle resets the timer.
After 5-6 cycles you will probably have it.
For evap you must have 1/3-2/3 of a tank of fuel.
Start the car cold and let it idle for 10 minutes with lots of accessories on. (lights, A/C or heater)
Do the same at the end of the drive cycle.

It took 3 cycles of slow freeway driving to get it reset
I drove in 6th at around 58 MPH
People were looking at me oddly driving a Porsche so slow!

In the final stages of wrapping up reassembling the interior. May as well show off the new lighting. :D

Nice! :cheers:

I have a FOXWELL reader. It is showing two catalytic monitors as not 'ready'. I started a thread with what I tried yesterday.

I'll try again.

Thx
Ted

Sitting on the off ramp of 101 for the second "Come to a stop and idle for N minutes"

How critical is the "under 3k" or 'under 30mph'?

On the second 20-30 range I broke out 3100 rpm and 31mph. Once. So I started that stage over. :(

No joy. Still not re-set.

I'm dealing with this same issue now, but my Autel is not indicating that any systems are "not ready", unless I'm not looking in the right place. I will try this routine, but it's not that easy where I live with stop lights every quarter mile and freeways that run either at 80mph or completely stop & go...

Yikes, bad idea......I just went through and added prices to my spreadsheet and have already spent more than what I paid for the car [emoji51]


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New jackstands, i may feel safer under these! Also replaced fuel door bracket that was cracked.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...42bb17958d.jpg


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Tracked down the coolant smell in the trunk to the bleeder valve....... I'm hoping the o-rings clear this up...... (tank was replaced two years ago.... by previous owner......)

-Eric

Be careful when you reinstall the screws, they are going into plastic. Tighten them evenly. Think wheel lug nuts star pattern. Otherwise the one o-ring will want to squeeze out the side.

Thanks, the whole tank doesn't look like much fun to replace!

-Eric

Keys
 

Went to dealer for first time today. One new key, with out electronics and my key with electronics fixed. Was told I needed a new sending unit in it also, what ever that is.
Called last week and was told $165.00 for key and $180.00 for programing. After they looked it over they called and said it will be only $675.00.
Love my Boxster

Couple of days ago, I upgraded the dash speakers with Audison APX-4 speakers. About $180/pair. I didn't do the work myself. They were highly recommended by my audio tech guy. He works mostly on Porsches and says he puts these into just about every Porsche he works on. Never gets complaints.

Made a HUGE difference, and that's an understatement.

Earlier this year, I upgraded the head unit with a double din Pioneer 2500 and a new amp.

https://www.audison.eu/products/apx-4/