Started my IMS Upgrade 2000 S wit 107,000 miles. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

dagdisco03 · 07-24-2012, 12:10 PM

So I have started my IMS, RMS, Clutch project. Everything is going well so far new LN bearing and tools ordered. Tranny came out easy enough about 3 hours with the car 16" off the floor and bumper on. I will be cleaning up my parts while I wait for my packages to arrive. I needed to make sure I ordered the correct bearing. Double row with a 4/00 build date on the car. Looks good with 107,000 miles. no leaks from anything and the tranny still had the right leave for oil.

Eric G · 07-24-2012, 12:37 PM

Since you are in there you might want to consider two more things, your RMS (Rear Main Seal) which is just above your IMS and the Coolant Reservoir. To take the two hoses off from the engine side is best done with the tranny out...and at this mileage, new transmission mounts, a front engine mount and maybe your CV joints.

Just throwing out some areas that are useful based on where you are now.

JFP in PA · 07-24-2012, 01:17 PM

Actually, before I'd go coolant reservoir, I'd do the AOS which is now fully out in the open......

WhipE350 · 07-24-2012, 01:41 PM

Good work Dag - I did all this last Dec. Since I had the funds I replaced the RMS and the AOS also. I did however have to take my bumper off, I don't have a full set of tools and was struggling with the back of the transmission, with the bumper off it was easy.

BerneseMtnDog · 07-24-2012, 02:04 PM

Definitely do the AOS while you're in there. Never an easier time than now. Also check the oil fill tube for leaks. Prone to happen and also much easier to get to now. Nice work.

Steve

dagdisco03 · 07-24-2012, 03:14 PM

Thank guys AOS was done at 96K. I just purchased the car at 100K and have local dealer records for the past 5 years. I'm doing RMS again even though it is the updated seal with square markings it was not listed in my records for the date it was changed. Cheap enough to just keep fresh.

I'm wondering about the coolant reservoir I saw that it's much easier with the Tanny out.

Also was considering the front engine mount but figured its a separate project since it's not disturbed with this removal maybe when by bypass pipes come in. They are back-ordered until September.

Car runs so smooth with no issues it was bugging the crap out of me to take it apart but I would be thinking about the IMS the whole time I'm driving it so I figures I had to do it so I'm good for a number of years.

Can't wait for parts to start to show up UPS is telling me Monday the 30th

Johnny Danger · 07-24-2012, 04:39 PM

When you're finished with yours, you can do nine .

grubinski · 07-24-2012, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhipE350

I don't have a full set of tools and was struggling with the back of the transmission

That's the universe telling you that you need to buy more tools.

Eric G · 07-24-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhipE350

Good work Dag - I did all this last Dec. Since I had the funds I replaced the RMS and the AOS also. I did however have to take my bumper off, I don't have a full set of tools and was struggling with the back of the transmission, with the bumper off it was easy.

Another voice from the ether...buy more tools and the car gods will reward you!

WhipE350 · 07-24-2012, 07:58 PM

Got some more for my birthday yesterday! It is amazing though how much can be done on these cars with just the basic tools. I had my car 24 inches off the ground and being Dec having the bumper off did allow some extra natural light in

.

Yes I had a leak in my oil fill tube and this was the best time to do that too +1.

SeanZ4 · 07-25-2012, 07:21 AM

Dag I had two Z3s and a Z4 before getting my Boxster. They were great cars but I've never looked back!

dagdisco03 · 07-27-2012, 06:39 AM

Since other people seem to be having issues location TDC I figured I would post a simple picture. NOTE THIS IS NOT TDC CYLINDER 1 and just off lobe on 1 and 4 to assist with IMS project. ONLY ROTATE THE ENGINE WITH CAM TENTIONERS FULLY INSTALLED!!!

dagdisco03 · 07-27-2012, 06:46 AM

Gearbox bolt layout to keep them in order.

dagdisco03 · 08-01-2012, 04:36 AM

Woo Hoo some of my parts are finally here. I can start to get this project moving.

dagdisco03 · 08-01-2012, 07:09 AM

Old bearing is out and boy was it tight. I was about to give up and was resting my arms when I heard the pop of the locking clip. After that smooth sailing out with many turns before the bearing was removed. I was ready for the oil bath but to my surprise nothing came out of my IMS tube. What you see in the pictures is all that was there nothing to even make it out of the tube just a few ounces sitting on the edges. No way to know this without pulling the bearing and with my mileage I couldn't drive the car and be happy with out doing this work and seeing what I had. Now I will have the comfort to drive the car and not wonder if today is the day for a flat bed.

Fretting on the outer bearing race will lead to failure and shows uneven load on the inside row of bearings. The fretting is fairly even around the bearing so there is no out of round condition.

san rensho · 08-01-2012, 07:29 AM

Whats the condition of the bearing? Have you opened it to take a look?

Eric G · 08-01-2012, 07:52 AM

I love this thread as I am just at the point now in my build where I will be pulling the bearing as well. Glad to hear things are going as well as they are. Good stuff so keep this coming...oh nice collection of bottles! I recognize a few as some good beers!

dagdisco03 · 08-01-2012, 08:25 AM

I have yet to pull the seal on the bearing I left it in a ziplock bag overnight to see if any oil leaks out for my non scientific seal test. Bearing feels like it still has grease in it no play and turns smooth. I took some video of the bearing pull and have a good clip were you can hear the clip pop to release the bearing while it's just sitting there without being touched. I ran out of space on my SD card before the bearing was pulled all the way out. I wanted to record the oil or in this case no oil coming out of the IMS tube. I'll take a picture of the bearing in the bag tonight and record video removing the seal to see what I have.

I like my craft and micro brews

Trying to figure out how to start making a wall display in the garage so they aren't all over my work space.

Froze the new bearing for a few hours and that's now in with the new flange. I did not add to the sealant on the micro-encapsulated bolts. I have no oil leaks to start so I figured the factory thread locker was enough.

New Bearing in place with spiro-loc. Spiro-loc was tricky to get in carefully but did go in after fussing with it for 5 minutes.

New flange had fit this was the last picture last night as I decided on what flange sealants and Loctite to use which I didn't have on hand. I do stick with recommended thread-lock numbers since there are so many choices out there I don't like to mess around and just get the right stuff.

dagdisco03 · 08-06-2012, 04:14 AM

So the car is now back on the road but I figured I'd share a few things. I updated my RMS tool after having issues getting my first seal to go in strait.

First tool and rubber mallet method I'd say very difficult to get it in correctly.

Updated tool using the original flywheel bolts to push the seal in. Notice the red cup is used with both tools to get the seal onto the crank as the factory tool does to not muck up the seals edge. 3 inch coupler cut just above the center lip and then a 3 inch tube cut to leave a 13mm face. The tape was used to shim out to the perfect depth for me as my compound miter saw wasn't calibrated for mm

Installed seal set at 13mm with no hammering. tool cost still well under $10 and you would have to really mess up to have it not go in perfect.

dagdisco03 · 08-06-2012, 04:24 AM

Red cup used to start the RMS onto the crank