My clutch is squealing! (I think)

[particlewave]

Its happened twice in the last month...when I first start off in 1st gear(first drive of the day), the clutch squealed the way a dry bearing does. I say the clutch, because when it happened today, I immediately pushed the clutch in while keeping the rpm steady and it stopped...let the clutch back out and it did again. Only for about a second, but loud. It goes away after the first take off.

It also seems like the clutch is engaging further out on the pedal travel. It used to engage at about halfway, now it seems closer to 5/8 or 3/4, but that may be in my head.

Is my clutch going out?

[thstone]

Yes, in my experience those are typical symptoms of a worn clutch. Hard to know exactly how much longer it will last but at least you won't be surprised when it goes completly.

[particlewave]

Good opportunity to do the ims, too, I guess. How long does a boxster clutch typically last under normal driving conditions? Normal being no tracks, the occasional hard acceleration, and the rest, just fairly gentle driving.

I'm sure its answered here somewhere, so I'll do some searching, too. Thanks thstone!

[Steve Tinker]

The biggest killer of clutches is not "just fairly gentle driving" but clutch slip - holding the car on an incline via the clutch instead of popping into neutral and applying the brake.
Any clutch can last over 100,000 miles treated properly - but subject it to all town work, sit at the lights with the clutch depressed and taking off from the stop street with 3,000 rpm with the clutch still slippng will shorten its life very quiclky......

[particlewave]

I try to always be gentle on the clutch; always in neutral at stops or when coasting downhill, try to never engage it at more than 1500rpm.

It is the original clutch, according to the previous owner and service records, and the car has 78k miles on it, so I guess that's a pretty good run.

Now, the $ signs are killing me! Looking at replacing the clutch and all components, IMS bearing, and RMS. that's around $2k in parts alone. I am certainly capable of doing the work myself, but time is an issue.

[thstone]

I don't mean to be Debbie Downer but you might also have to replace the dual mass flywheel when you replace the clutch. It is known to wear out in 75K miles so yours is likely ready for replacement. And sorry, but yes its expensive.

[particlewave]

Yeah, I saw that too. My wallet hurts sooo bad right now.
My biggest issue is whether to do it myself, or put it in the shop. I honestly don't trust any mechanic and I know that I'll do it right, but the time and work...not appealing!

[Kenny Boxster]

Originally Posted by particlewave

I try to always be gentle on the clutch; always in neutral at stops or when coasting downhill, try to never engage it at more than 1500rpm.

It is the original clutch, according to the previous owner and service records, and the car has 78k miles on it, so I guess that's a pretty good run.

Now, the $ signs are killing me! Looking at replacing the clutch and all components, IMS bearing, and RMS. that's around $2k in parts alone. I am certainly capable of doing the work myself, but time is an issue.

$2k in parts? I Am replacing my clutch right now, I found a cheap clutch kit online for around $350. With the LN kit that shouldn't run you more than $1,000 total.

[particlewave]

I'm talking a complete clutch job;
• Clutch Disc
• Pressure Plate
• Pressure Plate Bolts
• Throw Out Bearing
• Clutch Release Lever
• Guide Tube
• O-Ring for Guide Tube
• Pivot Piece for Clutch Release Lever
• Retaining Spring for Clutch Release Lever
• Ball Pin for Clutch Release Lever
• Flywheel
• Flywheel Bolts
• Flywheel Seal
• Transmission Mainshaft seal

About $1500 from Pelican. Plus the IMS bearing.

Do you have a link that you could shoot me?