10-02-2012, 07:21 AM
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#1
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2001 Arctic Silver 2.7
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Huntington Beach,CA
Posts: 310
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Top Speed doesn't list their Short Shifter any longer..
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2001 Boxster - Arctic Silver Metallic
RMS, IMS, 87.5K
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10-02-2012, 07:33 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 518
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They have it on Ebay now.
@Homeboy981,
Mine are a little tight and I tried to loosen the side nuts and got some relief. Can you please explain how you made the adjustments, why and the resulting effect? I'm sure quite a few would find it useful including me. For me at least I'm not sure adjusting what does what to the mechanisms actually.
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2012 Panamera 4
2010 Boxster
2000 Boxster S 3.2L
1990 Land Rover Defender 6x6
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10-02-2012, 08:01 AM
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#3
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Homeboy981
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sherman, TX
Posts: 663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bala
They have it on Ebay now.
@Homeboy981,
Mine are a little tight and I tried to loosen the side nuts and got some relief. Can you please explain how you made the adjustments, why and the resulting effect? I'm sure quite a few would find it useful including me. For me at least I'm not sure adjusting what does what to the mechanisms actually. 
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This may or may not be one thing to look at but…
GREASE!!! The thing needs lots of grease in the right places BEFORE you install it and BEFORE it is torqued down. In other words, take it out (if you have not done it), loosen the bolts on the sides and the top and bottom. Poly Moly was what I had at hand. Grease it up, tighten hand tight OR LESS and wipe of all grease.
Then, torque down the shifter nut using (?? wrench) on the sides so that it is "just right" (not too tight but not too loose either). Not sure of the ft/lbs needed. That will REMOVE side-to side slop.
To relieve the "slop" on the ends (or more precisely at the end of your shift throw) you will tighten that down with an allen wrench AFTER you installed in it the shifter console. Again, I do NOT know the torque but it just enough. You will be able to tell how tight it is as more grease is replaced by tightening it down. It is plastic on the console so DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. Having said that, it DOES require you to ensure the SSK is "bedded" by trying to physically "rock" the shifter after you tightened it. Rock it a little more and re-tighten.
One other thing too…I installed the cable end out of billet Aluminum (see previous pic) and it "hits" the underside of the shifter console lightly when I put in reverse. DOES NOT EFFECT SHIFTING…but this will depend on your cable length. AND the Cable End Piece DOES NOT HAVE ANY SLOP IN IT WHEREAS THE STOCK PLASTIC PIECE THAT GOES ON THE END OF THE SHIFTER THAT CONNECTS THE FORWARD GEARS HAS A LOT OF "GIVE" IN IT! The plastic piece is junk…the replacement is almost the cost of the SSK.
To me it is worth the price paid. And I KNOW the WHOLE SHIFTER IS SOLID NOW!
Mine is rock-solid but is not too tight. If that makes any sense.
Hope that helps!
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2002 Porsche Boxtser S - Silver & Chrome - Died from IMS failure AFTER IMS was replaced!
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06-09-2016, 08:16 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 91
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I bought the same shifter for my Cayman. I didn't care for the tilt so I disassembled the rod, put it in a vice, and bent it to a position that is pretty much the same as the stock unit.
It's mild steel and can be bent to your liking. I wouldn't do it too many times though. ;-)
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06-10-2016, 05:31 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mig
I bought the same shifter for my Cayman. I didn't care for the tilt so I disassembled the rod, put it in a vice, and bent it to a position that is pretty much the same as the stock unit.
It's mild steel and can be bent to your liking. I wouldn't do it too many times though. ;-)
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Looking at photos of the B&M, in the install procedure, it looks like it has no bend either. I recall the official Porsche shifter does. I personally like it with the same bend as the stock shifter.
P.S. The one I got looks like it is chrome plated. Bending it would crack the chrome plating but would work harden it...making it stronger...until it fatigues and fails. :-)
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10-07-2012, 08:15 PM
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#6
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E3E
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Hbrg, Pa
Posts: 53
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Didn't see one on ebay? Anyone with direct links? I'd love to pick up a sts for the box!
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98 White - Totalled
94 Honda Accord Coupe
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10-08-2012, 01:05 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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The GT2 / GT3 parts are manufactured out of sintered alloy instead of plastic...
You can buy them as a direct replacement for the standard 986 / 987 part - but at a cost.
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2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
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10-08-2012, 04:42 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,810
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__________________
Don't worry … I've got the microfilm.
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10-08-2012, 08:05 PM
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#9
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02 box s
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: alabama
Posts: 226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Danger
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Johnny, I dont know how you find all of this stuff. But, you always pull the coolest crap out of thin air. Too bad its 1k.
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10-09-2012, 04:52 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt brad
Johnny, I dont know how you find all of this stuff. But, you always pull the coolest crap out of thin air. Too bad its 1k.
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I picked one up the other day, along with a couple of more jars of Swiss Wax . Just tell FVD that JD referred you, and they 'll give you the special price of $981.00.
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Don't worry … I've got the microfilm.
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10-09-2012, 07:25 AM
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#11
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Danger
I picked one up the other day, along with a couple of more jars of Swiss Wax . Just tell FVD that JD referred you, and they 'll give you the special price of $981.00.
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i have some license plate bulbs i found for you in a bargain price:
2x Error Free White LED License Plate Light Bulbs 3SMD Festoon 6418 C5W | eBay
and the shipping is free :dance:
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10-17-2012, 06:24 PM
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#12
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Theoretical propagandist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 793
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...well the shift kits are back on sale once again and I placed an order...will post pics once I get to installing it!
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When life throws you curves, aim for the apex...
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10-18-2012, 04:28 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick MD
Posts: 658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric G
...well the shift kits are back on sale once again and I placed an order...will post pics once I get to installing it!
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Hi Eric,
I ordered one as well (Tue 8/16). I just got notification that my order was canceled because they are out of stock for the next 5 to 6 weeks. Let me know if you get yours... I bought mine from "turboracerx".
Last edited by shadrach74; 10-18-2012 at 04:31 AM.
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10-17-2012, 06:33 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Upper Marlboro, Md.
Posts: 268
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I bought a similar kit last year for my '99. Looked just like the B & M kit. Went in in 1 hour.
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'99 Boxster Artic Silver/Red
'14 Subaru Outback
'06 EG Classic
'05 Sportster
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10-18-2012, 05:13 AM
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#15
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Theoretical propagandist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 793
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...hmm, not good...but not bad if they are able to send them. No notification yet but the days not over. Thanks for the heads up.
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When life throws you curves, aim for the apex...
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10-18-2012, 06:03 AM
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#16
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2001 Arctic Silver 2.7
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Huntington Beach,CA
Posts: 310
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I saw that they had sold 2 and had 9 available.
I placed the order and it was cancelled also, stating they were out of stock and it was re-listed in error.
They refunded my money..
T
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2001 Boxster - Arctic Silver Metallic
RMS, IMS, 87.5K
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10-18-2012, 07:00 AM
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#17
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Theoretical propagandist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 793
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I got my notice as well...bummer that it was relisted by mistake. I was looking at the other seller that had these and based on the reviews, I wouldn't touch them with a 10' pole. Just have to keep checking back toward the end of November.
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When life throws you curves, aim for the apex...
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08-16-2014, 01:34 AM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 1
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I just picked up my first Porche, a 99 Boxster with 35k, and the shifter is a bit sloppy. I had a B&M short shifter in a previous car and loved it. I gathered that these appear identical to the B&M but after reading through this thread I was left wondering if the B&M or Porche short shifters also tilt to the left?
Also, since his is a two year old thread now I was wondering if everyone is still happy with them?
Thanks for the input. I'm excited about this car and getting it back to where it should be.
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08-16-2014, 02:38 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Coral Springs, FL USA
Posts: 96
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I have not seen a B&M SSK, but from the pictures, they appear identical. I installed the eBay version two months ago. I don't drive the car much, but I'm very happy with the SSK. I did have to rotate the shift lever. Strange that they assemble them backward. I purchased the aftermarket cable end, but I ended up using the stock Porsche part.
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06-08-2016, 04:39 AM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit
Posts: 211
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Just installed Ebay short shifter: 986 Tips, Tricks and Results.
Bringing this old thread back to give a recent update on fresh purchase and install. Hope my explanation helps. I didn't take photos because there were already plenty of photos in the guide.
Bought this one from Chinese store EpartsGoGo; 1998 2003 Porche 911 996 Turbo AWD Chrome Blue Short Shifter | eBay
Followed this install guide;
http://www.oz951.com/public/emmypics/shortshiftkit67.pdf
First thing I noticed was bend in shifter was the opposite of the stock shifter. That would really put the shifter at a weird angle toward the driver vs. the stock shifter so I unbolted it and switched it to the same direction. That was a bit of a PITA because it used a double threaded shoulder bolt and it was hard to figure out how to get it out. One nut would come off but then the entire assembly would just spin. In the end, I relocked that nut down and was able to break the other side free.
Apart it was apparent they didn't bother to lube the internal roller bearing inside the shift arm so I did that as well as lubed the felt/paper bushings. Swabbed it all down with white silicone bicycle grease.
I didn't need to take it as far apart as the guide. I had already taken the ashtray out in preparation for an ashtray delete (mine had a broken door.) Just unbolted the console, removed the front faceplate and unbolted the shifter frame from the floor and tilted it over to access the snap on cables. I didn't detach the cables from the frame or move the adjusters. I just detached the cables at the shifter.
I used a small chisel to break off the snap fittings for the old shifter pivots. That worked a lot better than trying to cut them with a utility knife. They were pretty hard and brittle on my 16 year old car.
There is a little pop out pin for the left/right cable that went flying when I removed it. Luckily it stayed in the car and didn't go shooting off into space! Took me 10 minutes to find the black pin lying in a corner of the carpeting.
One swivel pin is longer than the other, on the new shifter. You need to install that one into the bore first, than there is enough room to pass the shorter pin into place.
The bottom end (that attaches to the fore/aft cable) is longer than the original shifter. Mine had the green plate in the shifter bracket and the new lower location caused the cable end adjuster to hang up on the bracket. This detached the cable. I removed the green bracket (extra parts!) and there was just enough clearance to not cause interference.
Used a vise grip pliers to hold the adjustable swivel barrels when tightening the nuts...otherwise they would spin in the plastic shifter bracket.
Couldn't get the console back in because the front freeplay adjuster thread in the adjustable swivel barrel on the new shifter was too long and interfered with the console. Took a hacksaw and knocked a half inch off it and then there was enough clearance.
The entire job took maybe two hours and that was only because I went slow and had to fix the Chinese shifter along the way.
The shifter feels much "tighter." Efforts are considerably higher, but it doesn't have that rubbery long throw truck shifter feel. IMHO, it is a HUGE improvement.
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