$59 short shift kit - looking for reviews - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Johnny Danger · 10-09-2012, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgt brad

Johnny, I dont know how you find all of this stuff. But, you always pull the coolest crap out of thin air. Too bad its 1k.

I picked one up the other day, along with a couple of more jars of Swiss Wax . Just tell FVD that JD referred you, and they 'll give you the special price of $981.00.

Meir · 10-09-2012, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

I picked one up the other day, along with a couple of more jars of Swiss Wax . Just tell FVD that JD referred you, and they 'll give you the special price of $981.00.

i have some license plate bulbs i found for you in a bargain price:

2x Error Free White LED License Plate Light Bulbs 3SMD Festoon 6418 C5W | eBay
and the shipping is free :dance:

Meir · 10-09-2012, 09:01 AM

so this is how the linkage looks

i ended up using fabric tap to close the gaps and epoxy glue to secure it.

Meir · 10-09-2012, 09:09 AM

this is the pic:

this is the "new" cable next to the one removed from the car:

you can see the metal tread instead of the plastic.

funny thing is, the "new" cable is basically from an 00 boxster.
look at the part numbers. the one ends in 06, is from my 01 car.
so whats going on here, Porsche moved from one stupid design, to one even worst?
(the plastic tread is later version of the cable)

Homeboy981 · 10-09-2012, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meir

so this is how the linkage looks

i ended up using fabric tap to close the gaps and epoxy glue to secure it.

@Meir,
Not to belabor the point but….my linkage end looks EXACTLY THE SAME except, I was able, without destroying the plastic (or metal?) threads by backing out the allen bolts - in fact, take them off, and try to wiggle the cone-shaped black piece over the cable "threads". Secure with allen bolts. And use the screw at end of adjuster to make an adjustment while on the vehicle. You just "un-do" the allen bolts and using an 8mm (I believe) you adjust in place. Tighten allen bolts when done. It should work. If yours doesn't I am wondering if the MFR may have "adjusted" the inner diameter for that reason. I just purchased mine within the past few months. When did you pick up yours?

BTW….In case I did not make it clear….LOVE the Shifter! Didn't at first…give it a week and you won't look back - except for coppers!

Meir · 10-09-2012, 10:53 AM

the damage you see was caused when i removed it using a srewdriver. was very hard to do, as i mentioned in previous post.
i guess the all problem started when i couldn't slide the linkage over the plastic tread.
i guess i should have given it another try, and use more patience.(or use a press drill, that i didn't have back then)
i do not exclude, me doing something wrong. especially when you say you didn't have an issue. i guess the story was over for me, when i removed the plastic tread.
i assumed since its plastic, it needs to be removed, and the linkage will fit on the diameter of the metal part. i can see how you can adjust it if you do not have an issue sliding the linkage, and secure it with the Allen screws. that wasn't my case unfortunately.
still i think the Allen is bad solution. it would have been perfect if the linkage had a matching tread, and a secure nut.
but that is fine, i lost 40$, but learned a valuable lesson.
the SS was my second project on the car, and i guess i was to "rusty" and to exited to complete. today, i take my time and plan 10 steps ahead

sure happy that you got yours right

i got it more then a year ago, directly from Vertex Auto (drove there).

Jittsl · 10-09-2012, 11:42 AM

Couple of things here.

Are you sure that the plastic end is "threaded"? When I looked at it a year or so ago I assumed it was not threaded but simply moulded with a series of side by side grooves. To adjust the length I did not think you screwed the end on but rather removed the end and relocated it further slots up or down. Correct me if I wrong.

Just for the record, every case of breakage I have heard of involved the actual end fitting and not failure of the plastic end on the cable.

As to the aluminum "upgrade". I bought these for my SpecBox a year or so ago and took one look at them and decided not to use them. Yes the plastic Porsche ends have been known to break but to replace them with an ill fitting device secured with 3 tiny little set screws which would almost certainly fall off in time seemed nonsense to me. I suspect they would be fine for a street car but no way on a race car. Ever since I have run the stock components, tried not to be too brutal with the stick and have not had an issue. I still carry spares to the track just in case but so far so good.

Meir · 10-09-2012, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jittsl

Couple of things here.

Are you sure that the plastic end is "threaded"? When I looked at it a year or so ago I assumed it was not threaded but simply moulded with a series of side by side grooves. To adjust the length I did not think you screwed the end on but rather removed the end and relocated it further slots up or down. Correct me if I wrong.

Just for the record, every case of breakage I have heard of involved the actual end fitting and not failure of the plastic end on the cable.

As to the aluminum "upgrade". I bought these for my SpecBox a year or so ago and took one look at them and decided not to use them. Yes the plastic Porsche ends have been known to break but to replace them with an ill fitting device secured with 3 tiny little set screws which would almost certainly fall off in time seemed nonsense to me. I suspect they would be fine for a street car but no way on a race car. Ever since I have run the stock components, tried not to be too brutal with the stick and have not had an issue. I still carry spares to the track just in case but so far so good.

you are absolutely right.
the OEM linkage that came off my car (and now is back) looks as new. after 12 years.
as for the tread, you might be right too.

didn't real pay attention to the pattern of the tread, but it dose make sense. the adjustment of the the OEM linkage, is by sliding it, and not screwing it (that sounded a little bit awkward).
any way, putting sliding and screwing a said, ill have a look at it again tonight. most chances you are right.