Check Engine Light issue

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

My thoughts exactly . That's why I posted the codes . I can't imagine this has anything to do with the MAF sensor ??

In general, it does not have anything to do with the MAF; MAF codes are P0101, 0102, and 0103, depending on what the problem is.............

[JFP in PA]

Just for chuckles, over on RennTech, someone took out his MAF for cleaning, and forgot to reinstall it before driving off to work leaving the MAF sitting at home on the bench, apparently without any codes or problems. Now he wants to know if he needs to have it towed home or if he has done any permanent damage………….

[Topless]

Also from Renntech:

P1128, P1130
Possible fault causes:
– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor
– Intake air system leaking
– Fuel pressure too low
– Volume supply of fuel pump too low
– Fuel injectors fouled
– Exhaust system leaking

A fouled MAF can certainly cause the car to run lean... or rich tripping these codes. It still might be a failed MAF but an intake air leak is most often the cause.

[JFP in PA]

While you can "never say never", to date, we have not had a car throwing 1128 and/or 1130 alone turn out to be a MAF issue, it always turned out to be either a vacuum leak or fuel system issue. A fouled MAF usually throws one of the "implausible signal" (high or low voltage) codes, often in conjunction with other codes. As the RennTech case points out, you can run the car for longer than you might expect without a MAF, as long as you stay below 4K RPM’s and don’t have any WOT excursions, before the car throws any code, and then usually pops a P0102 and/or P0112 (low signal voltage for the MAF sensor and the intake air temp sensor).

[Dale_K]

I had those codes and found an intake leak on the oil fill tube - got it fixed but the light came back. Took it to a shop and got it smoke tested for leaks. Found a small leak but that wasn't it. Bought a Durametric and started tracking fuel adaptation. Finally I found someone who knew what the figures meant. They implied a bad MAF. I got a new one and totally fixed the problem. The Durametric shows normal values now. My point is normally I'm not the kind of guy to throw parts at a problem but in this case a new MAF was the cure.

You might want to get your car smoke checked for vacuum leaks first. Fix those and if no improvement you might need a MAF.

[fullthrottle52]

Thanks to all that left me some answers.
I wish I could narrow it down to one thing but at least I have a place to start.
Can anyone tell me if it is safe to drive the car with the check engine light on for any length of time. I do need to get it to a mechanic. That would mean driving it 10 to 15 miles.

Thanks again for the help.

[JFP in PA]

As long as the CEL is not flashing, it is safe to drive, but I would not be flogging the car until the issue was corrected.