I don't understand the coolant bleeder/tank system

[Meir]

Originally Posted by rp17

Thread resurrect...Any instructions on how this system works?

best way to go, is get one of this:

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518322496&sr=1-1&keywords=airlift+cooling+tester


if not, i found the procedure on pedro's garage website to be most practical:

1. Check whether the coolant shutoff valve is open.

2. Fill with coolant up to the bottom edge of the filler neck.

3. Run the engine at idle speed and top up with coolant until no more coolant flows into the cooling system when the engine is revved moderately. (Coolant level now at lies lower edge of filler neck.) The coolant temperature must not exceed 80°C; proceed directly to the next work step if necessary.

4. Close reservoir and warm engine up to operating temperature at a speed of -2500 rpm until the thermostat opens after approx. 10 minutes (coolant temperature -90°C).
Check: The radiator supply lines and return lines in the front wheel housings must be hot.

5. Allow engine to run an additional 5 minutes at ~ 2500 rpm. Every 30 seconds, briefly rev up the engine to -5000 rpm. RPM surges are important for proper bleeding.

6. Allow engine to run at idle speed until any activated radiator fans switch off again. Then switch off the engine. Open reservoir cap with extreme caution until the reservoir is de-pressurized (danger of scalding!).

7. Top up coolant expansion tank until level reaches lower edge of filler neck.

8. Reposition bow on bleeder shutoff valve, Unscrew oil cap.

9. Put on cover and body seal. Screw on both caps.

[rp17]

Thanks Meir!! I've been so busy at work lately.. Weather bad here so was tinkering around with my coolant leak problem.. Should start another post but but... coolant tank replaced 2 years ago 10k miles.. Was going to drain and replace the water pump till I saw this..

[rp17]

Could a bad coolant cap cause this?

[rp17]

Drove the car and for got something at home. Returned to the garage, coolant everywhere in front the passenger side rear wheels.. checked the coolant resvoir for leaks... nothing but saw the bleeder valve showing signs of leakage.. Was going to replace the water pump but kinda lost now.. Been leaking for a while. Replaced shifter cables and saw red coolant from a drain hose that I know now is coolant...Could this still be a water pump issue or bad cap? I'm spent right now can't think...

[Brian in Tucson]

Originally Posted by rp17

Drove the car and for got something at home. Returned to the garage, coolant everywhere in front the passenger side rear wheels.. checked the coolant resvoir for leaks... nothing but saw the bleeder valve showing signs of leakage.. Was going to replace the water pump but kinda lost now.. Been leaking for a while. Replaced shifter cables and saw red coolant from a drain hose that I know now is coolant...Could this still be a water pump issue or bad cap? I'm spent right now can't think...

The drain hose is an overflow hose. Fill the reservoir too much and it will spew out onto the pavement. It's generally in front of the right rear tire. If you have coolant dripping behind the right rear tire, you have a coolant reservoir leak and coolant is draining out of the trunk.

If you have a wet floor in your trunk, you need a new reservoir. If you do, get a new cap and a coolant level sensor, too. The clip clamps make it a pretty miserable job, they all seemed to be facing the wrong way. While you're in there, replace the little sections of hose between the reservoir where it goes thru the firewall and the metal system tubes.

I did all this stuff last fall, my hands are finally healing up!

[SC-986]

I'm a fan of the "AirLift" system. Replaced the WP, T-stat, and engine mount on my '02 base a couple of years ago. After watching a few YouTube tutorials on use of the "AirLift" system it was easy peasy. Used a 6 gal. pancake compressor to draw vacuum.

I like the fact that you can verify the integrity of the cooling system based on whether or not it holds vacuum. If there is a problem you can recheck your work prior to re-filling the system. Saves a lot of time in potential rework and you can refill the system in no time with no worries of air in the system.

[Brian in Tucson]

It really doesn't do any good if you can't hold a vacuum. Need to get it to 20 to 25 inches of vacuum, and have it hold. Problem with trying to use it as a diagnostic aid is that the compressor and the venturi vacuum make so much noise that you can't hear the leak.

The sealing and bleeding the system is just one of the things I'm currently working on. The little manifold that's part of the coolant tank is a little cute for my tastes. It will be simplified by drilling out the plastic sections and run longer lengths of rubber hose, I think. Fewer connections mean less chance of leaks.

I've got leaks.:ah:

[mikesz]

I have a 99. I replaced coolant when I replaced the first water pump, thermostat, front engine mount. I purchased a UVIEW device and gave up trying to use it and sold it. I thought it was a PITA. I did what others have done on this forum. I jacked up the rear of the car, filled up the system, open the bleeder valve and drove around my neighborhood. Worked fine for me! I did it again when I added an "S" center radiator and again never had any problems. Just speaking from my experience.

In other words, what Meir said!

[Brian in Tucson]

I have less expensive Air Lift system $88 from Amazon. It works fine, and for the home mechanic will probably outlive the owner.

If your cooling system will hold a vacuum, you can use pretty much any small compressor. The sub $100 ones from Harbor Freight will work, it will just take longer. I run my old Craftsman/Devilbis at wide open pressure and about 8 cfm.

You can't use these things to "burp" the cooling system. It pulls the coolant back into the reservoir and then spews it out into the trunk or the side of the car. Need to almost completely empty the system before you start. And if you're draining the system, you need to drain the parts behind the engine, then pull the big hoses off, jack up the front of the car, and let the coolant in the radiators run downhill to drain out. There are no short cuts. Jack stands are your friend.

I'm doing heavy work on my engine, when it's done, I'm gonna pull the front radiators out and either replace them or have them boiled out at a radiator shop. Previous owner used tap water, and my old engine was full of calcium.

[Timco]

Testing. No new posts for days?