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Old 12-24-2010, 10:28 AM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonefx
Did you pump out the original oil and then pump in the new oil? I am getting ready to do that service.
Why? There already is a drain plug on the manual gearboxes..................
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Old 12-25-2010, 03:56 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Why? There already is a drain plug on the manual gearboxes..................

Drain plug is a PITA to get to but I doubt you could suck out all the oil with vacuum.
Unlike engine oil where the vacuum works pretty good at getting as much oil out as draining.

Yes it would be a good idea to cut a small hole maybe 2-2.5 inch diameter and buy a rubber plug to put on that dust shield. Anyone know where I could buy a rubber plug? Actually square plug would be easier
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:57 AM   #3
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The rubber plug is not necessary. Using a drill and a metal hole saw, simply cut an inch and a half to two inch hole in the tray, de-burr the edges, and you are forever in business when servicing the gear box.............

And I have never seen a vacuum system that can drain either an engine or gear box as effectively as the OEM drain plugs..............they all leave some of the oil and crud you are trying to remove behind. Not good.
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Last edited by JFP in PA; 12-26-2010 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 12-27-2010, 02:49 AM   #4
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Send a sample to a place like Blackstone Labs for a UOA (used oil analysis) to further establish your base-line info on the new to you car.

Color looks normal.
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Old 12-27-2010, 05:57 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Flavor 987S
Send a sample to a place like Blackstone Labs for a UOA (used oil analysis) to further establish your base-line info on the new to you car.

Color looks normal.
Excellent idea!

Wish I had known about the small magnet next to the drain plug before I put her back together. It would have been nice to see if there were excessive metal shavings on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAl9g_Oar7I&feature=related
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:10 PM   #6
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JFP in PA. Please explain what is going on with the Red Line oil. Why will the shifting become more difficult ? I bought some RL GL-4 oil , but have not yet done the job. I've read elsewhere that GL-5 oil is bad for these transmissions. What is the correct tranny oil to use ? Please comment. Others with details, please comment too.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho Red Rocket 3
JFP in PA. Please explain what is going on with the Red Line oil. Why will the shifting become more difficult ? I bought some RL GL-4 oil , but have not yet done the job. I've read elsewhere that GL-5 oil is bad for these transmissions. What is the correct tranny oil to use ? Please comment. Others with details, please comment too.
I just threw some Reline GL-5ns in the tranny and it shifts better than before. Plus it says this GL-5 is recommended for Porsche transaxles.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho Red Rocket 3
JFP in PA. Please explain what is going on with the Red Line oil. Why will the shifting become more difficult ? I bought some RL GL-4 oil , but have not yet done the job. I've read elsewhere that GL-5 oil is bad for these transmissions. What is the correct tranny oil to use ? Please comment. Others with details, please comment too.
Shear appears to be the major issue. Red Line, like RP and Amsoil, all seem to start off reasonably well, but the products do not stand up to shear, particularly under hot conditions. As the result, clients had begun to complain about poor shifting and unusually noisy gearboxes after very limited use; in one case, a single track day was enough. We had the lab that does our oil analysis work test both virgin and relatively short usage samples of RL, RP and Amsoil, all were found to have fallen out of grade (advertised specs), and with poor film strength properties after a couple of thousand street miles. In a couple of cases, the used oil viscosities were very low, less than half that of the starting product. RP was the worst, with RL was close behind. Basically, none of them faired very well. In each of the cars that had problems, we fully drained the gear box of the aftermarket oil, and refilled them with Porches’ OEM gear lube, and the problems completely went away.

What everyone seems to overlook is that Porsche uses a totally unique gear oil spec, it is not GL anything, it is Porsche’s. While smaller gear oil vendor/blenders like RL, RP and Amsoil like to claim that they have the perfect substitute, as the result of the unique spec Porsche set, they really don't. We have written to some of the major oil companies (Exxon Mobil, Castrol, Shell, etc.) asking about suitable products for these gearboxes’, and have uniformly been told, "Due to the unusual factory specifications, we currently do not have an appropriate product for this application, and would suggest using the OEM's product."

This topic, by-the-by, has been covered ad nauseum on multiple sites over the years (PPBB, RennTech, etc.), always with the same conclusion; Porsche’s gear oil is the way to go. From what can be determined, the OEM product is a full synthetic, possibly made by Shell (unconfirmed). But as the result of our test, we buy the OEM oil in drums, and it is the only product we use. The OEM fill is not all that expensive, and is readily available, so why mess around………..
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