Window doesn't drop

[Dave S.]

Thanks. I think I'm just going to have to take the door apart and see what's going on in there. It appears the electrical is working properly, but there is either something binding against the glass or the track. Since I had the new stereo installed and speakers installed in the door I have an annoying rattle coming from the passenger door when the stereo is cranked and I want to dynamat it anyway. Sounds like this will finally get me to take care of that problem at the same time.
I won't work on it until my dynamat arrives, but I'll post up something on what I find.

Dave S.

nono do not take those measures it will be something very simple.
reset normally fixes it, first send them up then send them down but hold for 25 seconds then try.

if not check the fuse i bet its blown.
this normally happens on a dead battery.

[Dave S.]

Thanks, I'll definitely try to reset the windows before ripping the door apart. I can't look at it until this weekend.

[roadracer311]

This is the usual symptom for a failed window regulator. If you search for that term, you'll see some tutorials on what they do when they fail and how to replace them. Try the easy stuff to diagnose it, but 99% chance, you need a new window regulator. People have tried to repair them, but no one has come up with a fix that lasts. I have a failed on in my closet right now. Next time one of mine fails, I'm rebuilding it, using parts from my old failed one.

[Dave S.]

So after trying the reset, with no success, I took the door apart and found that the window has exceessive play in the regulator cabling system allowing the widow to move about 1/2 inch up and down when it isn't rolled all the up or all the way down. The driver's side window shows no such play in the system.
How can this be adjusted so the cables are tighter.
I can't believe the regulator itself is worn out since this car only has 20k miles on it and it's the passenger side, which is used less than the driver's side.

[gschotland]

Stretched cables is the typical reason regulators fail. There's no way to adjust the tension AFAIK. Given the ~$200 cost of a new regulator, somebody would have figured out a fix by now if it was possible. Unfortunately, you've gotta bite the bullet and replace it. Not too bad a DIY, actually. In one of the other regulator threads you'll find a link for really good step-by-step instructions.

[Dave S.]

That is exactly what my problem appears to be, the cables need to be adjusted and there is no adjustment. I can't understand how Porshe could design such a POS with no adjustment.

I refuse to spend $200 when I can get the same result for less than 5 cents. I ended making my own adjusters for the cables. It's a little ghetto, but it got the job done. I realized I had to pull the outer sleeve back to tension the cables, just the way the bicycle cable and the throttle cable on my other car are adjusted. I ended up pulling the outer sleeve back from where it attaches to the regulator and putting a wire tie around the collar as a spacer. I did this in a couple of places and while the window still has too much play, it tightened things up enough that it now drops the proper amount and doesn't interfere with the top when you open the door. It was way cheaper and easier than replacing the regulator.
I am very disappointed in the design and I'll find a better fix for this in the future, but for now I have the door back together and it's working again.