986 roof stuck open.

[schoir]

Originally Posted by MN 986

I think I have this same issue with my 2002. I put the top up but the clamshell would not close completely. I was able to pop off the black pushrods so I could lower the clamshell, but the top won't go up or down (I can't get to the red ones with the top up). I noticed that one of the cables seems to be trying to work (I can feel it trying to move) but the other cable is not doing anything.
Does this sound like the same problem?
How does the repair differ on a 2002?
Any help is appreciated because I am out of town and I don't have my service manual with me.
Thanks!

The issue that you are having is probably more related to your transmissions not being synchronized, and that is why the clamshell is not going down completely at the end of one of the cycles.

Your 2002 differs in that it's governed by two different microswitches, which in the 2000 and later Boxsters is located inside the driver's side ("Stehle" brand) transmission.

You have to verify that your inner speedometer-type cable is actually effectively acting on the transmission gear, and that it is not frayed or broken INSIDE the outer sheath. Then you can synch them and you should be okay.

Regards, Maurice.

[mikehkang]

Hello Maurice,

I was searching to troubleshoot problem with my 2001 stock top and here I am.

How do I troubleshoot the transmission on the driver side that is not spinning?
What are the parts that I need to check and how do I access them?

Any helpful direction is much appreciated.

I don't want to make my first post too long. However, if you need more info, please let me know.

Thank you.

Michael

[MN 986]

Originally Posted by mikehkang

Hello Maurice,

I was searching to troubleshoot problem with my 2001 stock top and here I am.

How do I troubleshoot the transmission on the driver side that is not spinning?
What are the parts that I need to check and how do I access them?

Any helpful direction is much appreciated.

I don't want to make my first post too long. However, if you need more info, please let me know.

Thank you.

Michael

Maurice has a lot more experience and posts than me, but I can say I just had a similar problem, and it turned out to be a broken cable on the driver side. Luckily nothing else was broken (the arm with the red cup/end was slightly bent, but I straightened it out), so a quick trip to the local dealer for a cable, and the whole thing was fixed for <$40. It was much easier than I expected, and works great again. Just be sure the transmissions are aligned (you can use a drill on the motor end of the cables) before hooking everything up to the transmissions and operating the top again.
Good luck!

[schoir]

Originally Posted by mikehkang

Hello Maurice,

I was searching to troubleshoot problem with my 2001 stock top and here I am.

How do I troubleshoot the transmission on the driver side that is not spinning?
What are the parts that I need to check and how do I access them?

Any helpful direction is much appreciated.

I don't want to make my first post too long. However, if you need more info, please let me know.

Thank you.

Michael

Michael:

MN986 is right. It is probably just a problem with your driver's side cable.

The inner, speedometer-type cable is either frayed or broken inside the outer black vinyl sheath.

Disconnect that cable from the left side of the electric motor (in front of the third brake light) and put the square end of the inner cable into a cordless drill set on the LOWEST torque setting and spin the cable with the drill while you observe the V-lever.

If the V-lever is not turning (in either direction), then your drive cable on that side is faulty. It's very unlikely that your transmission or the worm gear that the cable drives has a problem.

To replace the cable, just pull it off the rear of the transmission and push the new one on, then put the other end of the cable back into the side of the electric motor.

If you want to double check it beforehand, put the end of the new inner cable into the drill and try to spin the V-lever. Be sure to note and measure (photo would help too) the position of that V-lever so that you know your starting point.

In any case, you should resync the two transmissions.

Note: To pull the cable off the side of the electric motor, just pull straight up on the upside-down U-clip that holds the cable in place at the side of the electric motor.

Let us know how you make out.

Regards, Maurice.

[mikehkang]

Hello MN 986 and Maurice,

Thank you for your answers.
You guys gave me the courage to take the car apart!

I have confirmed that the driver side cable is bad. The protruding portion that connects to the motor is broken.

The cable is on its way.

I have a few more questions if you guys don't mind.

- The 19mm bolt that holds the v-lever to the transmission is REALLY stuck. It looks like loctite was used to keep the bolt from coming off.
Q1-3. Does Porsche use loctite at this location? Regardless, should I use loctite when I put it back? I also don't have a torque wrench. Do I need one for this job?

Q4-6. Is there a switch near the motor? I couldn't see one. Otherwise, how does the car know that the top is completely folded and the clamshell closed so to stop the motor? Is it possible that the heavy rain from the days before fried the switch?

Thank you both guys again for the prompt help.

[schoir]

Originally Posted by mikehkang

Hello MN 986 and Maurice,

Thank you for your answers.
You guys gave me the courage to take the car apart!

I have confirmed that the driver side cable is bad. The protruding portion that connects to the motor is broken.

The cable is on its way.

I have a few more questions if you guys don't mind.

- The 19mm bolt that holds the v-lever to the transmission is REALLY stuck. It looks like loctite was used to keep the bolt from coming off.
Q1-3. Does Porsche use loctite at this location? Regardless, should I use loctite when I put it back? I also don't have a torque wrench. Do I need one for this job?

Q4-6. Is there a switch near the motor? I couldn't see one. Otherwise, how does the car know that the top is completely folded and the clamshell closed so to stop the motor? Is it possible that the heavy rain from the days before fried the switch?

Thank you both guys again for the prompt help.

Mike:

Kudos for trying to tackle it. You should be able to do this repair without too much trouble.

The 19mm bolt that holds the v-lever to the transmission is REALLY stuck. It looks like loctite was used to keep the bolt from coming off.
Q1-3. Does Porsche use loctite at this location? Regardless, should I use loctite when I put it back?

Porsche does use loctite on that 19mm bolt, and you should use it as well. That V-lever is under a LOT of pressure at certain points of its travel. You can use blue Loctite and it will be fine. (From the write-up on Mike Focke's Website: Coat the ends of the threads on the 19mm bolt with Loctite Blue, install and tighten the bolt to 59 ft/lbs) This, and further instructions are found on the Part II PDF, at page 30, paragraph 22 of the DIY, here: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

Q4-6. Is there a switch near the motor? I couldn't see one. Otherwise, how does the car know that the top is completely folded and the clamshell closed so to stop the motor? Is it possible that the heavy rain from the days before fried the switch?

The only switch near the motor (only on 97 to 99 Boxsters), is the black lever microswitch which is located and mounted directly on top of the electric motor.

That black lever microswitch is how the car "knows" that the clamshell is closed, as that switch sends a signal to the convertible top double relay, which then initiates an "after-running time" of fractions of a second...which then cuts power to the motor and turns off the "top open" idiot light on the dash.

Heavy rain usually does not affect that switch or the motor...However, check under and behind your driver's seat to verify that the rain water has not found its way to the central alarm computer under that seat.

Regards, Maurice.

[mikehkang]

Gentlemen,

I am here to report to you that the top is up, a pun(?), and running again. :dance:
Thanks to Maurice and MN 986 and the other silent well wishers, I have completed my first significant repair.

I do have one more question regarding the clamshell.
During the PPI back in Dec 2009, it was noted that the pointed part of the clamshell, the driver side, was misaligned - the pointed part used to go down about 1/2 inch more than it should when the top was fully opened or closed.

As a by product of the repair, the alignment is much better but still not perfect.
Is there a way to adjust the fit/alignment as this pointed parted of the clamshell when the top is fully opened or closed?

Again thank you everyone for help.

Michael

[schoir]

[QUOTE=mikehkang]Gentlemen,

.....
I do have one more question regarding the clamshell.
During the PPI back in Dec 2009, it was noted that the pointed part of the clamshell, the driver side, was misaligned - the pointed part used to go down about 1/2 inch more than it should when the top was fully opened or closed.

As a by product of the repair, the alignment is much better but still not perfect.
Is there a way to adjust the fit/alignment as this pointed parted of the clamshell when the top is fully opened or closed?
....

Michael:

Great work, and way to jump in there!

The height at which the tips of the clamshell sits when completely open or closed can be adjusted.

Put the clamshell in the rearmost (45 degrees) position and take a look at the area against and just outboard of the large gasket that surrounds the convertible top well, just aft of where the rear of the door meets the quarter panel.

You should see a small, rectangular black plastic part that sits there and that has a small wing that tucks under the gasket so as to remain put. That black plastic contraption consists of two parts sandwiched on each other. Pulling the two apart lowers the level at which that tip of the clamshell ends up, pushing the two together raises that tip of the clamshell.

In your case, since it's the driver's side that ends up a little lower than it should, first check to make sure that the little part is actually there. Then, check the passenger's side for comparison and you should then be able to make the adjustment.

Not a great photo (only one I could find now), but here's what it looks like at the bottom edge of the photo, near the right corner:



There is one more adjusting mechanism that affects the level at which the clamshell sits, but try this one first and let us know how it works out.

Keep up the good work!

Regards, Maurice.