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Old 04-13-2010, 10:51 AM   #1
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clutch pedal problems help plz

while driving yesterday i tried to shift to 3nd and noticed the gear lever was a bit hard so i kept the clucth pedal depresed while letting my revs drop from 4 k to about 2k when i came off the clutch it was stuck to the floor but it was not activating the clutch as it was still holding the gear so i limped the car home and shut it down and thought i might need to bleed the lines(i was hoping it was my problem) now here in the bahamas some tools are not easily found at the parts store(im a d i y guy) the only bleeder i could get my hands on was a mightyvac mv8000 i tried bleeding the lines how ive seen it described here and got some air out but the pedel still is soft and with the car on will not shift gears so i tried bleeding it again and now the pedal is staying on the floor any help or advice will be apreciated, also i can go thru the gears with the car off only with it on it refuses to take a gear

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Old 04-13-2010, 11:14 AM   #2
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Not many components here. Either the pressure plate went bad or the slave cylinder. Good luck. I will look into it when I get a chance.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:14 AM   #3
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Here's Pedros Clutch Bleed Instructions:

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Bleed_the_Brakes_%26_Clutch.html

From what you have described it sounds as if you may have a bad clutch master cylinder or a bad clutch slave cylinder, or the clutch pressure plate simply failed:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/986M/POR_986M_Tclutc_pg3.htm#item16
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:55 AM   #4
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i tried that using the bleeder i have and the pedal slams to the floor now instead of not activating the cluch witch is what it was doing when i pet it home the other night
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:13 PM   #5
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ih all i intend on changing the master and slave cylinders and want to know if i have to change a section of line and must also get a new union
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Old 06-16-2010, 03:51 AM   #6
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any elp would be appreciated
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Old 06-16-2010, 03:56 AM   #7
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I just replaced a section of the clutch pipeline (second section from the front). The part came with a union and circlip screwed on to the tail end of the line. I'm pretty new to this DIY business, so that threw me for a bit until I realized that the supplied union is actually for the front end of the line because the old union is not removable from the old line.

I'm not going to write several more paragraphs on how to do this unless you actually want the advice, but feel free to ask any questions you may have. I've had to spend quite a bit of time over the last couple of weeks figuring this out. Once you've done it once it seems incredibly simple, but if, like I was, you are starting from the point of zero knowledge, it can be a bit of a head-scratcher.

It also seems to be an area where there is little collective knowledge available from the group as my pleas for help went, for the most part, unanswered. (That is absolutley not a complaint, btw, just an observation.)

Good luck!
Mark
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:16 PM   #8
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well im trying to figure out if to change the master cylinder or the slave if changing lines are nessacary since pelican parts is telling me i need a line and a union as well as the cylinders just dont want to get something i wont need
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:47 PM   #9
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If that's the section that couples the clutch pipeline with the slave cylinder then, I'm told, if it is not sweating, bulged, or otherwise damaged you can re-use it and just replace the slave cylinder. Buying that extra union doubles the cost of the job.

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