What Oil to use?M1, Castro synt? or other

[mptoledo]

After much extensive research, I am now more confused than before. Many on rentech and other reputable sites believe that M1 xw40 is great but apparently cant be had in the states. They actually believe Mobile 1 10w30 may lead to the "AOS" failure and white smoke. Most also suggest a minimum of 7500mile changes, and less if you are hard on it. Some even suggest 2 times a year for the different seasons in ohio. Like 5W40 for winter and 15W40 for summer.
http://www.babblers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11064&highlight=mobile

Questions:
1.)What oil do you use in your Boxster? I am in ohio so we get some cold weather. I am leaning towards Castro syntec 5W40.

2.)what air and oil filters should I use? I have heard great things about K&N.

[rd400rz]

mobil one 0W40 you can buy it at any store around here auto zone ,advanced auto,etc

[mptoledo]

It was 4W40 they said wasn't sold in america, but after reading this article I am rethinking the use of Mobile 1.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

[gregdacat]

Not another oil thread AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by gregdacat

Not another oil thread AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Yes indeed, why is that a problem? actually i was asking about filters also.

There has been a lot of people going away from mobile 1 see below. Since I am about to change my oil, I was trying to get some proffesional opinions on the subject. The main problem seems to be anything lower than xxW40.

http://www.babblers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11064&highlight=mobile

Guys,

If you really read those threads that Jake Raby has some input on, the suggestion is not only to reduce the change interval, but to move away from Mobil 1 as well. What no one is saying is: move to what ? Raby can't be more prescriptive on that for legal reasons at the present time, but he will tell you that he does not use M1 in his engines. If you have a Raby motor put in your car, it will not come back to you with M1 in the crankcase.

You have to decide for yourself if you want to do this, and to what oil, but I can tell you that I dug DEEP into this topic and after a LOT of reading came to the conclusion that the M1 had to go. I saw and read enough to make me a believer that the M1 may be a main player in the IMS failures. This is just my personal opinion, but you can dig and read on the subject as well and draw your own conclusions. I can say though, that my opinion is based on a lot of research and reading on the subject, and on 30 years of turning wrenches on my own street cars, and drag racing motors.

I made the switch to Castrol Syntec 5w-40, which is still on Porsche's approved oil list as are many other commonly available 5w-40 fully synthetic oils. I have used Castrol lubricants for years, in both street and racing motors, and never once had a problem. However Quaker State, Penzoil, Valvoline, Motul, Exon, and Havoline 5w-40 synthetics are all on the approved list along with many others. I would personally not hesitate to use Royal Purple 5w-40 either, although it is not on Porsche's approved list. I have had very good experiences with it in the past.

Just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth, but you can dig and read as well as I can I'm sure. If you dig enough, and in the right places, my bet is you will come to a similar conclusion. Besides....it is ZERO risk to change oil, since so many other oils are on the approved list and cost pretty much the same as M1.
__________________

[gregdacat]

It's not a problem. I understand you're just trying to get others opinions. It just gets old reading post after post about motor oils. In the end there never is a consensus. Some people like Mobil 1. Some people like Royal Purple. Some like Redline ect. ect, ect. If you do a search on this forum using the word "Mobil" (for some reason it won't allow you to use "Mobil 1") you will find you get 268 hits for different threads.

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by gregdacat

It's not a problem. I understand you're just trying to get others opinions. It just gets old reading post after post about motor oils. In the end there never is a consensus. Some people like Mobil 1. Some people like Royal Purple. Some like Redline ect. ect, ect. If you do a search on this forum using the word "Mobil" (for some reason it won't allow you to use "Mobil 1") you will find you get 268 hits for different threads.

Sorry if my reply sounded rude, it wasn't meant to be. it just frustrates me as I was ready to get this over with.
I was all set to change my oil with mobile 1 and did a quick search and ran across a plethora of articles on oils and how some highly respected people are going away from M1.
thanks for the reply though.

[jmatta]

FWIW, I use Royal Purple 10W40 in my seven year old S with just under 16k miles. Change it once a year, which equates to 2500 to 3000 miles. I've read very good reviews for Castrol Syntec 10W40 and at half the price, would be tempted to try it.

After reading and seeing the failures on both LN and Flat Sixes' sites, there is no way I'd use Mobil 1 0W40.

To each their own...that's why there are so many different beers out there...everyone has their own tastes.

[mptoledo]

I have heard royal puple has a loyal following. I am leaning towards castro syntec because I haven't heard anything bad about it. I see you live in the Chicago area(gotta love Genos east pizza ). anyways, do you drive your car in the winter? I am guessing not due to the low miles on your Box(16k). I plan on racking up quite a few miles as i just love to road trip with it. I plan to change the oil 1 1/2 to 2 times a year(yeah I know 1 1/2 its an average ).

I appreciate the input, as that is why I started the thread. Since all the doubts about M1 are recent, it raised some concern. I just would rather be safe than sorry. I guess the only way to find out if the engine failures and Mobile 1 are true is if I had one. Not a rosy scenerio for me.

[rd400rz]

Its funny everbody gives a differnt story ,one says royal purple is the best next guy says its sucks ,they used to say ams oil was the best in jet skis ,bikes, cars, etc now the same people say not to run it at all not even in your lawn mower ,same with lucas oil everbody said it was the best when it first came out or became popular now they say it sucks, now royal purple is fairly new or popular now they say it is the best ,next year they will say not to use it ,and there will be some fancy name new oil on the market they will say to use ,I have always heard you can not go wrong with mobil 1 my 98 box has it and has never had a problem and it is driven hard and has 88 k on it ,I have never heard any thing bad about castrol and run that in my 914

[mptoledo]

I agree RD its the flavor of the month. I am looking more of what to stay away. I mean I could run regular 10w40 oil from jiffy lube and never have a problem. Its a pretty whacked subject. Everytime i do a search I come up with negative stuff on any motor oil. Just put the pharase "don't use" in front of the oil. Ie the link below is the latest.

http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articles/amsoils-big-competitors/

Good Frickin Grief. I think I might just flip a coin!! hell if my engine does blow, then I can put a 3.8 in it for only $26,000.

[vath2001]

FYI... I Just did a Mobil 1 oil change, 10w30. In retrospec, I would have gone to 10w40. I am not sure but it seems to runs a little hotter now, compared to the old oil (which I have no way of knowing the weight). But now I am driving in the summer compared to the spring.

I bought my oil from Meijers at $19.99 a gal (on sale), and the quart cost me $5.49, I got the filter from the Zone. I would recommend getting the filter wrench from the Zone at the same time.

My thoughts on oil... I run the the TL and Chevy on whatever is on sale (they have 135k and 100k respectively). I ran my old Civic SI on whatever was on sale... when I traded that away it had 190k. You could argue that running better oil makes the engine last longer... or I would argue that doing oil changes at the prescribed interval it more important than the label on the bottle. But what do I know.. I can show only 425k of research.

[Brucelee]

Red Line is a class 5 full synthetic made with Polyolesters.

To my mind, it is hands down the best.

IMO.

[chitowndad]

Where's the best place to buy Redline?

-Steve

[Brucelee]

http://www.redlineoil.com/

Dealer locator and you can buy it online.

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by vath2001

FYI... I Just did a Mobil 1 oil change, 10w30. In retrospec, I would have gone to 10w40. I am not sure but it seems to runs a little hotter now, compared to the old oil (which I have no way of knowing the weight). But now I am driving in the summer compared to the spring.

Honestly Vath2001, What I have read ,and its a lot, you need to stay away from xxW30. Most experts warn never to use it. Now there is a cure, drain out 2 or 3 quarts and add xxW50. It gives it a xxW40 average. Some guy on another site posted he used the same as you and the "experts" told him to get it out as soon as possible. They are more concerned about the weight rather than the brand.

PS I saw the miejers add also for a gallon of M1 for $19.99 Damn nice price.

[ddb]

Originally Posted by chitowndad

Where's the best place to buy Redline?

-Steve

I bought a case of Redline 0W-40 last week for $136 shipped.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/Red_Line_Motor_Oils

I've been using M1 0W-40 without any problems since I've had my car. However, all of the info from Flat 6 and LN got my attention. I only drive 2,500 - 3,000 miles per year so I change the oil annually which makes the cost less of an issue for me.

ddb

[mptoledo]

Well the saga continues. I am set to put some CAstrol syntec, or mobile 1 in Box. Problem is nobody has any xxW40. its all xxW30. I know better to use the latter(30 is bad).

My question is they do have M1 10W40 (highmilage) AND 5W40 (turbo diesel truck) Can I use either one of these?
My local Oreilleys has buy 4 get 5th for free(upto two free) on Mobile 1. This is perfect for me.

[ovul82jazz]

Wish I'd read this thread last week. I just changed my oil and put in 5W30 M1.... now, I'm having serious second thoughts. What is the big issue with the 30W? I live well N of the 49th parallel and its cool up here most of the time. Putting in the 5W made my noisy lifters quiet right down and things are running ever so smoothly.

Is this a big enough issue that you'd recommend I drain and refill with thicker oil before next Spring? :chicken:

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by ovul82jazz

Wish I'd read this thread last week. I just changed my oil and put in 5W30 M1.... now, I'm having serious second thoughts. What is the big issue with the 30W? I live well N of the 49th parallel and its cool up here most of the time. Putting in the 5W made my noisy lifters quiet right down and things are running ever so smoothly.

Is this a big enough issue that you'd recommend I drain and refill with thicker oil before next Spring? :chicken:

Chances are you will be all right, but if it was me and what I have read, yes I would do something. You may be fine, but why chance it. there were a "few" who brought up a possible link between "aos" failure and 30 weight. Its about the viscosity and the posche engine breaking down 30 weight oils easily. An easy fix to save you some money is in the following thread. Just empty out a few quarts and replace with 50 weight.
http://www.babblers.org/forums/showthread.php?p=56040&highlight=mobile&page=2

"when i got my second boxster ppi'ed at a porsche mechanic he gave me the car a cocktail of mobil 5w30 and 15w50.... said it would give the grade of 10w40 which mobil 1 didn't have... so when i made a mistake of putting in 5w30 he said drain half the oil and add 15w50... did that and everything is good... when i had the 5w30 in (about 600 miles) i noticed frequently on start ups i would get a puff of smoke after the cocktail mix none at all and seem to drive a tad cooler and quieter.. funny though when i had my 97 i used 15w50 and it would puff smoke after 2-3 start ups..."