02-14-2005, 07:10 AM
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#1
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Watch Freak
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 434
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I own a hand wash/detailing center. Never use force when washing. If the dirt does not come off then use a more effective means such as clay or mild solvents. Do not use more pressure as a wash mitt can act like sandpaper on your clearcoat. I also reiterate, do not go through a tunnel wash!!!
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2006 Lamborghini Gallardo 6spd-Rosso Leto
2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged-Winter Beater
2006 BMW 750i 19" Sport Wheels BK/BK-Daily
2005 Lotus Elise Sport & Touring Package-Fun
2001 Lexus RX300-Back-up Winter Beater
2001 Mercedes-Benz S500 Sport AMG-Sold
2000 Boxster S Heavily Modified-Sold
2000 Nissan Altima GLE-Parking Spot Holder
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02-14-2005, 09:20 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 251
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What about those tunnel washes that don't use brushes?
In the sub-freezing weather, I had to get the salt off of my car, so I took it to one of those tunnels that uses strips of felt hanging instead of brushes. I watched the car through the entire process and the contact between the soap, water, sponge with the car was comparable to what it receives when I wash it.
Even the wheel washers were felt pads instead of brushes.
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02-14-2005, 09:37 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,709
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I go to the coin operated car washes. Wheels first, then from the top down. I bring my own soap, chennile wash mit, OXO feather tip brushes (one for wheels, one for top), and I use microfiber fiber waffle weave towels to dry the car. Basically I'm paying for water because I don't use the brush that's usually lying on the floor full of rocks. I can do it in five minutes and its costs $3.00 in quaters
The high pressure is good for the top, as I only rinse it mostly. But if it gets soiled(birds) I spray in Ragg Topp clenaser, lather it up with the OXO brush and rinse. Blot dry with waffle weave towels and later on I'll reapply the Ragg Topp protectant in an indoor parking garage. You know its working well when the water beads after rinsing.
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GT3 Recaro Seats - Boxster Red
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02-14-2005, 10:25 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 372
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I know Stryke and I are in total agreement on this one, since there have been similar threads on this topic before. I agree 100% with what he said.
Basically, you want to use as little effort (i.e. energy in any form) and chemicals as possible.
If your car has a good finish and has a good coat of wax, keeping the car clean is very easy. When my car gets salty or dirty in the winter and my hose is turned off, I take the car to the do-it-yourself wash bay style car wash up the street, and only use the super low pressure setting (basically a mist) that is supposed to just kind of get the car wet. Nothing else!! When the car gets wet, all the crap just kind of falls off with no effort what so ever. I then pull the car to the back of the parking lot and give it a good drying with some micro fiber towels and it’s done.
Once you get the car super clean (or keep it that way from the start) and get a good coat of wax, it takes almost no effort the keep it clean.
Few cars in the world look as nice as a Porsche (especially black ones  ) when they are spotless, its worth it.
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02-14-2005, 10:29 AM
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#5
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Watch Freak
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 434
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Yellowjacket, I guess that construction van that went in right before you with sand and crap on it and got all of it stuck to these felt pads and turned them into sand paper means nothing.
Not to mention the tracks you put your rims in and let it bang up against the side of the lip.
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2006 Lamborghini Gallardo 6spd-Rosso Leto
2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged-Winter Beater
2006 BMW 750i 19" Sport Wheels BK/BK-Daily
2005 Lotus Elise Sport & Touring Package-Fun
2001 Lexus RX300-Back-up Winter Beater
2001 Mercedes-Benz S500 Sport AMG-Sold
2000 Boxster S Heavily Modified-Sold
2000 Nissan Altima GLE-Parking Spot Holder
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02-14-2005, 10:36 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Indiana, USA
Posts: 416
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I would have to say, "STAY AWAY FROM HIGH PRESSURE WASHES!!!!"
I went thought one when I first got my car and that was the last time. "High pressure" = "forced water into your cabin". It was one of those "no touch" laser washes, The pressure gun was so much that it forced water through the top.
not good..... :ah:
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02-14-2005, 10:37 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 251
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Stryke
Yellowjacket, I guess that construction van that went in right before you with sand and crap on it and got all of it stuck to these felt pads and turned them into sand paper means nothing.
Not to mention the tracks you put your rims in and let it bang up against the side of the lip. 
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Tracks are pliable plastic. I checked into the whole process in great detail before I sent my car through there.
Good point on the "other people's dirt" factor, though. Most of the cars going through this particular one were well-maintained Euros and upscale Japs as it's a pretty expensive place... but you make a good point. Every option has its downside, but I think this one is ok as a once-or-twice a year last-resort. I love my car to death, but there are certain times when I have to be practical about it.
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02-14-2005, 10:43 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,709
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I bent a wheel once on one of those tracks. Cost $75 to straighten and repaint.
The shop had about 50 wheels waiting to be done in the garage. The high pressure(not too high) is only good if you can manually direct it yourself, making sure to stay away from the window edges and the back window. Its really important to dislodge all the debris in the top and a stiff stream of water is the least abrasive method. Traped dirt is what breaks down the fabric and causes tears. That's why a protectant is so important.
If you must go to the auto car wash tell them to use your microfiber drying towel and give them a Brand new chenille wash mit($4) and no soap on the canvas top.
That will eliminate most of the possible scratching. Car washes use low grade drying towels(usually dirty) and the wash mits have exceeded their shelf life.
__________________
GT3 Recaro Seats - Boxster Red
GT3 Aero / Carrera 18" 5 spoke / Potenza RE-11
Fabspeed Headers & Noise Maker
BORN: March 2000 - FINLAND
IMS#1 REPLACED: April 2010 - NEW JERSEY -- LNE DUAL ROW
Last edited by Perfectlap; 02-14-2005 at 10:53 AM.
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02-14-2005, 10:50 AM
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#9
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Crazed P-Car enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 150
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Every forum I've ever visited discusses the car wash thing. There is no arguement that nothing beats a hand wash both in terms of quality and safety. But for those of us living in colder climes, often there's little choice. Between salt remaining all over my car, and a touchless wash, there also is no choice. I agree that any public enviroment that makes contact with my car is verbotten, but the occasional touchless wash, aside from the high pressure, is not too likely to harm my car. It's a Porsche, not a sugar cube. On the other hand, using machine washes can lead to complacency, and the once in a while turns into once a week. Then one exposes themselves to the vagaries that machine washes offer. It's your car, so do what you are comfortable with.
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