09-01-2008, 10:18 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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I start by removing the upper breather line, and moving the wiring harness out of the way. This requires nearly NO effort. Just barely squeeze and pull away from the AOS
Unclip the plastic wiring loom holder and move the wires back. Take the second loom you see that is NOT in the holder and move it up and over the fuel rail test port. This will give you more room later as you work
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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09-01-2008, 10:22 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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It should look like this when you get the loom unclipped and the second loom UP and over the fuel test port cover.
NOW you can see the lower plastic clamp that needs to be released!!!
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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09-01-2008, 10:24 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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From above and using the same Blue small Channel locks as I used on the breather line above, I reach down and carefully release the lower breather hose. I also move the shifter cables over and out of the way.
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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09-01-2008, 10:27 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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Now its time to visualize  Take a look at the length and positioning of the stock bolts. I try to do as much as I can up on top prior to jacking the car up and getting underneath. I can easily remove the two M6 bolts (10mm head) from up top utilizing a short 10mm socket on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and a Zippy 10mm wrench.
You will be removing these two small bolts. They thread into the block. Once you get them broke loose, use JUST the socket to unscrew them. They will come out pretty easy.
Use the 1/4 drive with 10mm socket on the top one, and the 10mm Zippy wrench on the bottom one. YOU CAN DO THIS from the top of the car. Just feel down the side of the AOS. I do my damnedest to stay out from under the car until I have too. I shot these pics from under the car, just to show everyone where the bolts where located.
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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09-01-2008, 10:29 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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I also go ahead (from the top) and remove this bracket seen here with the blue arrow pointing to it. This will allow you EASY access to the clamp we will remove later from the lower portion of the bellows.
In this shot, you can clearly see the bolts have been removed and the blue arrow is pointing to the clamp that needs to be removed NEXT!! You can also see in this pic, how I removed the M6 bolt for the bracket and moved the bracket out of the way. The bracket holds the plug for one of the O2 sensors.
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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09-01-2008, 10:30 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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After removing the lower clamp (I used the same small Channel locks as above) the AOS will slide up and out of the engine compartment. You will have to twist it and pay attention to things it could get caught on while coming out. FYI: There is a special tool for those clamps you see. I choose not to reuse those clamps and instead, replace it with something MUCH easier to deal with during the process of installing the new AOS
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:56 AM.
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09-01-2008, 10:34 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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I go back in with a factory hose clamp
Stock spring clamp is on the left, factory hose clamp on the right! This hose clamp does NOT need 400lb. ft. of torque on it. Just snug. You'll find that trying to put the spring clamp back on with your arms fully extended from the wheel well will prove to be nearly impossible (unless you manage to locate the proper locking pliers that hold CLOSED on the clamp) I find it MUCH easier to stick a 7mm nut driver up there to a regular hose clamp and MOVE ON!
Here is the factory part number for the clamp I used. It is a "fluid" hose clamp meant for BoxsterS 3rd radiator hoses. Feel free to use any hose clamp you feel comfortable with. I choose factory parts as much as possible in my builds/repairs.
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:56 AM.
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09-13-2008, 03:07 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 524
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I just replaced my AOS using the instructions here. At first I was hesitant because looking at the access room I had doubts. I started to call a repair shop and a dealer. Independant shop quoted 13 hrs of labor @ $115 per hr since the eng need to be dropped. The dealer quoted $900 but advised they revised the removal process and don't need to drop the Engine. I said I guess I'm going to get down and dirty and try harder.
I followed the instructions from this post except one area. Instead of trying to remove the clamp that is difficult to remove. I just cut the hose and remove the clamp once you have the AOS out of the way. The new AOS came with a hose.
I also didn't bother removing the lower vacuum hose clamp until I was able to raise the AOS. You have more room to remove the clamp once you raise the AOS.
Brad, Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
I also go ahead (from the top) and remove this bracket seen here with the blue arrow pointing to it. This will allow you EASY access to the clamp we will remove later from the lower portion of the bellows.
In this shot, you can clearly see the bolts have been removed and the blue arrow is pointing to the clamp that needs to be removed NEXT!! You can also see in this pic, how I removed the M6 bolt for the bracket and moved the bracket out of the way. The bracket holds the plug for one of the O2 sensors.

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2008 Boxster S PDE2
02 Boxster S Blk on Blk(Stock for the Wife)
88 turbo S (My Toy) slightly modified
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09-14-2008, 09:07 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,889
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I put this picture on Bard's spec board, so here it is.
This is what I see the mechanics at the local dealer using for the lower spring band clamp. Once the clamp is in position the blue clip is puled away and the clamp closes. Marvin Weitz at RennShop in Santa Clara also uses it.
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01-12-2012, 07:40 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 518
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I'm going to be doing my AOS replacement in a day or two. Pictures would definitely save me a lot of time, trouble and headaches.
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2012 Panamera 4
2010 Boxster
2000 Boxster S 3.2L
1990 Land Rover Defender 6x6
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01-18-2012, 10:48 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Found the pictures on my home server!! Under Boxster/Howto.. LOL
Pushing them to the server now!
B
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