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Old 11-21-2007, 10:24 PM   #1
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Experiences With Detailer Spray and Waterless Cleaners

Howdy all - I have a few questions yet again. . .

Since winter is pretty much here, it is now waaaay to cold for me to wash my car with soap and water.

How do you all advise using spray detailers? Do you just primarily use them for clay bar lubricant or do you use them for light cleaning? It seems I can use them for both. . . Can anybody shed some light on how to maximize the value out of these products?

Also, have any of you tried the turtle wax foam away cleaner? Its readily available where I am and the only waterless wash/wax I have seen in my area. I am going to need something to clean off the car when I put on its new bra and when I cover it during travel.

Regards and have a wonderful thanksgiving!

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Old 11-22-2007, 10:54 AM   #2
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This is a question for "Perfectlap" he is the king of clean. Do a search on his threads. I've been wondering the same thing. I don't drive my Box year round but when we get that occaisional clear mild day like today I'd like to do a quick waterless cleaning before I go for a drive.
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Old 11-22-2007, 11:53 AM   #3
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get the ONR (optimum no rinse), follow instructions, and you will be fine.
there are even videos on youtube how to wash the car this way, looks perfectly fine, and clans and shines the car right up.
the only thing that you cant get to unlike conventional car wash is for example wheel wells with hard spray off.
32oz is like 12 bux, and you can also get a full gallon of this stuff.

heres a quick how-to, although washing a car is not science
http://autopia.org/forum/detailing-product-discussion/89845-onr-how.html

and here is the Optimum forum, great info there, take a look at the how to section, even shows how to wetsand on a new Boxster
http://optimumforums.org/lofiversion/index.php/

and this is the tutorial, much better than one above, from that site
http://optimumforums.org/lofiversion/index.php/t424.html

here is a video washing the silver porsche, once there you can click on the right for other videos
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4910183452379827390&hl=en
and here is a black one, much better to see
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2077855946412498290&hl=en


BTW, quick Q, instead of drying with a towel, i like to use the leaf blower, would this be a bad idea after ONR?
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:39 PM   #4
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ONR Quick Detail mixture strenght

Hi
i checked out the instructions at http://autopia.org/forum/detailing-product-discussion/89845-onr-how.html and that ONR stuff looks like the way to go...

One thing which is not clear to me is when he mentions in his instructions :"Now begin washing, I personally like to take my ONR Quick Detail mixture, and spray the panel before I wash it."

That "Quick Detail Mixture" is the same proportion mix as the "regular mix" he uses : "(1 oz per 2 gallons of water, I typically do 1 more capful which is about 1.5 oz's...)",... or is it "pure, 100%" in the spray ?

Thanks !

Kind regards,
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Old 11-26-2007, 08:35 PM   #5
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No not 100% concentration, that's just wasting product.
quick detailing strength is 6 ounces per gallon of water.






It's a VERY good idea to soak the car before taking a sponge or sheepskin mitt to the paint but rather than spraying it first I would just dunk the sponge and hold it over each panel. That should drench the car pretty well, then you can dunk the sponge again and wipe down the surface.
I'd leave the wheel arches, bumpers and rocker panels for last. Then use a wheel face brush to wipe down the wheels with the left over water.

The leaf blower is the way to go for drying. I think I saw the Craftsman on sale for $40. ONR contains some ingredients that leaves the surface slick when dry. But its a good idea to use ONR in detail strength or your preferred qd spray after drying. Wiping with a qd spary and towel will let you see if the paint is soil free, the towel should come up clean when buffing. If not, you didn't wipe enough or didn't use soak the panel sufficiently.

Good enough for a Ferrari
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-744800996428313622

I think I went three months this summer without having to do a full bucket and hose wash. ONR and an anti-static spray like FK1 425 is a good one-two punch for low maintenance.
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Last edited by Perfectlap; 11-26-2007 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:21 PM   #6
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Yeah, what he said.

Lotta times what I'll do is to go ahead and get out the hose, but not to spray down the car thoroughly. I'll set the nozzle to a fine mist spray and point it up, so that the mist just sort of settles evenly on the surface of the car. Then I do the ONR (6 oz/gal water) treatment. In my experience, doesn't even really need a lot of drying, just a light buff with a clean soft towel.

Don't know if you have a garage, but if so, one of my favorite techniques is to use a rainy day to my advantage. (Especially if it's a light, misty rain.) I back the car out into the rain til it's lightly wetted down, then pull back into the garage. Then the ONR. Works great.

Following with the FK 425 is a really good way to go. Assuming the finish is in good shape (ie has been washed, clayed, sealed/waxed sometime in the recent past), you do the ONR and follow with the 425, it's amazing. You've never felt a smoother, silkier surface. Toss the buffing towel onto the hood, odds are it'll slide right off the car.
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perfectlap
...The leaf blower is the way to go for drying....
Perfectlap, there's something about this I don't understand. The biggest problem I've fought with my finish is waterspots. If you use a leaf blower, won't it evaporate the water and leave the mineral deposits on the car? Or does the blower actually blow the water off the car?
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:23 AM   #8
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well the leaf blower will get most of the water off, you still have to remove a few spots. For those you should blot up and down, avoid wiping sideways when drying.

as for water spots, Personally I never leave a freshly washed car "bare". I always follow up with a spray wax booster or an anti-static spray using the short nap (non-furry) side of a microfiber towel or a dedicated concourse grade buffing towel. At the final buffing stage the paint is presumably clean so using the prickly side of the mf towel is overkill and if the towel isn't 100% clean it will cause swirling. Another reason why using different color towels is helpful. I only use certain towels for removing paste waxes, certain towels for sprays, cheaper towels for wheel/interior/leather cleaning and others for final paint buffing. The towels last longer for me this way.

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