05-03-2007, 06:28 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Hi,
It's most likely 11mm, at least it was on my '99 and also a buddy's. I've never seen a 9mm - most metric bleed screws are 10mm such as the ones from the brake line to the Caliper. These Bleeder screws can weld themselves to the Caliper because of the corroding effect of Brake Fluid making them difficult to open. Add to that, you want to get them tightly closed to avoid fluid loss or air infiltration.
Be sure to use either a closed-end wrench, or preferably, a Flare Nut wrench to avoid rounding off the Hex. An open-end wrench, grasping the Hex on only 2 sides, won't usually give you enough bite to loosen it properly without rounding it. A closed-end will grip on all 6 sides, but is cumbersome to use, especially when you have a drain tube fitted to the nipple. A Flare Nut wrench has one open side so you get a 5-sided grip. This way, it can pass past the drain tube, yet still give enough grip to avoid rounding off the Hex. Hope this helps...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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05-03-2007, 07:07 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Well after trying to fight with the clutch bleeder nipple I found out why I was never able to grip it well....it had been stripped. I guess the dealership must have done it,that's last time anyone touched the clutch bleeder nipple. I guess that's what happens when Porsche uses a plastic part where there should be metal! F.Y.I. it was 9mm. Looks like I will have to perform brake fluid changes bi-annually to make up inability to change the clutch bleeder fluid. Oh well,live and learn.
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house 
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05-03-2007, 07:26 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Hi,
Plastic? Mine are Stainless Steel - OEM PN# 930.351.919.00. Maybe that explains the difference in size.
I suggest pulling one and taking it to the Dealer to compare with a SS one. If the Pitch and thread size match, switch to the 11mm Stainless ones so you don't have this issue over and over...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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05-03-2007, 07:39 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,
Plastic? Mine are Stainless Steel - OEM PN# 930.351.919.00. Maybe that explains the difference in size.
I suggest pulling one and taking it to the Dealer to compare with a SS one. If the Pitch and thread size match, switch to the 11mm Stainless ones so you don't have this issue over and over...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Is it safe to just yank the valve and nipple right off? It looks as if it's one plastic piece. I'm open to any suggestions at this point.
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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05-03-2007, 07:41 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Hi,
Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking about the Clutch Slave. There may not be a substitute, I don't know...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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05-03-2007, 07:50 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Someone suggested to me just to replace the slave cyclinder,it's only $45 and it's an Audi part. Doesn't look like there is too much to replacing the whole thing;
-remove the mounting bolt
-slide towards the rear
-remove slave cyclinder hydraulic line from slave cyclinder
-installation is reverse of removal,note the following;
-bleed hydraulic system
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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05-03-2007, 08:16 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Hi,
That's not a bad idea on a '99, but you should really change both the Clutch Master and the Slave at the same time. Often, when you only replace one, the other fails in short order due to added stress from the better springs and seals in the new one. I've seen this happen lots of times and it's usually easier to do it all at one time - only have to bleed it once. The Clutch Master Cylinder is PN# 996.423.171.05 and should also run somewhere around $50. Good Luck!...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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05-03-2007, 08:44 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,
That's not a bad idea on a '99, but you should really change both the Clutch Master and the Slave at the same time. Often, when you only replace one, the other fails in short order due to added stress from the better springs and seals in the new one. I've seen this happen lots of times and it's usually easier to do it all at one time - only have to bleed it once. The Clutch Master Cylinder is PN# 996.423.171.05 and should also run somewhere around $50. Good Luck!...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Hmm,perhaps I will do that. Changing the Master doesn't seem that hard,more time consuming. First I have to figure out how to remove the hydraulic line from the Slave first. I haven't worked on anything like this on the Boxster,so this is all new.
Does anyone what size socket I should use to remove the clutch slave mounting bolt?
Does anyone know how to remove the hydraulic line?
Is it as simple as untwisting and then retwisting on the new Slave?
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
Last edited by blinkwatt; 05-03-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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