Help! Clutch Bleeder Nipple Valve Size!
 

I can't find the right sized wrench to bleed to clutch nipple! It's a 99' 5spd and my car is already in the air.

On some cars it is 9 mm. On some cars it is 11 mm.

Don't ask my why Porsche uses 2 different sizes....

Hi,

It's most likely 11mm, at least it was on my '99 and also a buddy's. I've never seen a 9mm - most metric bleed screws are 10mm such as the ones from the brake line to the Caliper. These Bleeder screws can weld themselves to the Caliper because of the corroding effect of Brake Fluid making them difficult to open. Add to that, you want to get them tightly closed to avoid fluid loss or air infiltration.

Be sure to use either a closed-end wrench, or preferably, a Flare Nut wrench to avoid rounding off the Hex. An open-end wrench, grasping the Hex on only 2 sides, won't usually give you enough bite to loosen it properly without rounding it. A closed-end will grip on all 6 sides, but is cumbersome to use, especially when you have a drain tube fitted to the nipple. A Flare Nut wrench has one open side so you get a 5-sided grip. This way, it can pass past the drain tube, yet still give enough grip to avoid rounding off the Hex. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Well after trying to fight with the clutch bleeder nipple I found out why I was never able to grip it well....it had been stripped. I guess the dealership must have done it,that's last time anyone touched the clutch bleeder nipple. I guess that's what happens when Porsche uses a plastic part where there should be metal! F.Y.I. it was 9mm. Looks like I will have to perform brake fluid changes bi-annually to make up inability to change the clutch bleeder fluid. Oh well,live and learn.

:cheers:

Hi,

Plastic? Mine are Stainless Steel - OEM PN# 930.351.919.00. Maybe that explains the difference in size.

I suggest pulling one and taking it to the Dealer to compare with a SS one. If the Pitch and thread size match, switch to the 11mm Stainless ones so you don't have this issue over and over...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Is it safe to just yank the valve and nipple right off? It looks as if it's one plastic piece. I'm open to any suggestions at this point.

Hi,

Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking about the Clutch Slave. There may not be a substitute, I don't know...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Someone suggested to me just to replace the slave cyclinder,it's only $45 and it's an Audi part. Doesn't look like there is too much to replacing the whole thing;

-remove the mounting bolt

-slide towards the rear

-remove slave cyclinder hydraulic line from slave cyclinder

-installation is reverse of removal,note the following;
-bleed hydraulic system

Hi,

That's not a bad idea on a '99, but you should really change both the Clutch Master and the Slave at the same time. Often, when you only replace one, the other fails in short order due to added stress from the better springs and seals in the new one. I've seen this happen lots of times and it's usually easier to do it all at one time - only have to bleed it once. The Clutch Master Cylinder is PN# 996.423.171.05 and should also run somewhere around $50. Good Luck!...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hmm,perhaps I will do that. Changing the Master doesn't seem that hard,more time consuming. First I have to figure out how to remove the hydraulic line from the Slave first. I haven't worked on anything like this on the Boxster,so this is all new.

Does anyone what size socket I should use to remove the clutch slave mounting bolt?

Does anyone know how to remove the hydraulic line?

Is it as simple as untwisting and then retwisting on the new Slave?

If you replace the clutch master or the slave be sure to bench bleed it first or else you'll never get a firm clutch and air will sit inside the master or slave until bench bled.

What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.

I found that the replacement part # is 8EO.721.257.F BUT it says that I could need the updated line and union,anyone know what that is about?

Here is a pic;
https://www.************************************************************/secure/PartImages/8E0721257F.jpg

It looks easy to do,so I will drive the car as is till I have the time to change it out.

I took this pic just in case anyone is going to bleed their own clutch in the future, all other pics or drawing I've seen are craptastic. This is what the bleeder nipple and valve looks like,enjoy.

Thats what bench bleeding it, its an older term for bleeding the air out of cyclindars before you isntall them. Basically have the parts suck up fluid and force out the air.

Hi,

The hydraulic line will have a Flare Nut fitting on it. The ones on the Calipers are 10mm, so I assume it's the same.

The change in Line and Union probably notes a change to whatever Nut is currently used and you most likely have to swap them all out...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi,

Bench Bleeding is just what it says. With the Master on a Bench (usually held in a vice), you bleed it by adding fluid to the reservoir (in this case a line) and push the Pushrod until all the bubbles come out of the Line end. These things usually come with plastic caps and once you have done this, you replace the plastic caps to hold the fluid in. You still have to bleed the thing again to purge any air from the Line once it's installed, but if you haven't previously bled the air from the bore, it isn't alays possible to do so after installation because of orientation, or height vs the height of the Slave, which is what I suspect. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Jim,

It looks like my hydraulic line is held in by a push pin,see my pic,that's my exact one from my car. I was told that there are two types of hydraulic lines,the push pin and from what you say a flare nut fitting. The pic looks like a push pin design,please correct me if I'm wrong.

This is the part I will be changing it out with;
https://www.************************************************************/secure/PartImages/8E0721257F.jpg

Why in the world does Porsche use several different parts for the same application?

Hi, Last weekend i visited a friend who is the proud owner of a 2003 Boxster S and a 1999 base model, he went for a ride in my car and noticed that the clutch needed a little more effort to push down compared to his 2 cars.

Has anyone compared the 1997 to the other years and notice any difference or is there maintenance to be done on my clutch.

Thanks

Franco

The clutches are different from 97'-99' compared to 00'+,so I would think they would feel a little bit different. How many miles are on your clutch,perhaps it's getting old(but not to the point of replacement)?