986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - View Single Post - Vario Cam Adjuster Plunger question re: P1324 code

Gelbster · 04-02-2017, 08:29 PM

Brilliant work ! Love the turnbuckle.
Later cars are different :
1. Beware of changes to Variocam Actuator internals according to year
2. in 2000 (?) the r.h. 10-32 thread was changed to 5mmx 0.8 LEFT hand ! You can find 5mm brass rod, M5x0.8 L.H. die and steel nuts on EBay but from China ! I do not think there is enough material on the Variocam to enlarge to M6x1.0, Right Hand.
3,Make sure the pad with the 'o' ring and 2 holes is correctly oriented .It will fit in the wrong position very well ! Note the OP's photo that shows this well.
4. Check many times that the "7 link" spacing has not slipped or you will be chasing ghosts and doing over eventually . A dot on the two chosen links from a paint pen is helpful.
5. Consider temporarily screwing in some aluminum rod into the lower cam cap/cam cover holes to support the cams when positioning them
6. Beware of falling exhaust lifters
7. Apply Assembly Grease to the cam bearings, cam caps and lifter tops to avoid a 'dry' start.
8. Apply the 1mm bead of 3Bond or similar to the cam cover, not the cyl head.
9. Consider applying just a little thread sealant(not locker !) under the heads of the cam cover bolts to prevent leakage. Torque down in stages and use a click/beep t.wrench for the final.You can not see the wrench
10. Look carefully at the bolts . Those that thread into steel are 10.9. Those that thread into aluminum are 8.8. That is a huge clue to the correct torque.
10.9 grade 6mm bolts are torqued to 10 ft/lbs = 13Nm. -only in to steel not aluminum !!
* 8.8 grade 6mm bolts are torqued to 7.5 ft/lbs =10Nm* . For aluminum. Don't muddle the steel vs. aluminum or you will be Helicoiling. For both, tighten in at least 3 progressive stages.
11. If you use a zip tie - beware that the entire force of the big spring in The Actuator is trying to bend the tint plastic tang that engages on the little ribs of the plastic zip tie. When that inevitably fails....be ready or use a threaded rod as described above.

I'll do a write up for the later cars when I get mine fixed.

04-02-2017, 08:29 PM	#6
Gelbster Registered User Join Date: May 2014 Location: S.California Posts: 2,029	Brilliant work ! Love the turnbuckle. Later cars are different : 1. Beware of changes to Variocam Actuator internals according to year 2. in 2000 (?) the r.h. 10-32 thread was changed to 5mmx 0.8 LEFT hand ! You can find 5mm brass rod, M5x0.8 L.H. die and steel nuts on EBay but from China ! I do not think there is enough material on the Variocam to enlarge to M6x1.0, Right Hand. 3,Make sure the pad with the 'o' ring and 2 holes is correctly oriented .It will fit in the wrong position very well ! Note the OP's photo that shows this well. 4. Check many times that the "7 link" spacing has not slipped or you will be chasing ghosts and doing over eventually . A dot on the two chosen links from a paint pen is helpful. 5. Consider temporarily screwing in some aluminum rod into the lower cam cap/cam cover holes to support the cams when positioning them 6. Beware of falling exhaust lifters 7. Apply Assembly Grease to the cam bearings, cam caps and lifter tops to avoid a 'dry' start. 8. Apply the 1mm bead of 3Bond or similar to the cam cover, not the cyl head. 9. Consider applying just a little thread sealant(not locker !) under the heads of the cam cover bolts to prevent leakage. Torque down in stages and use a click/beep t.wrench for the final.You can not see the wrench 10. Look carefully at the bolts . Those that thread into steel are 10.9. Those that thread into aluminum are 8.8. That is a huge clue to the correct torque. 10.9 grade 6mm bolts are torqued to 10 ft/lbs = 13Nm. -only in to steel not aluminum !! * 8.8 grade 6mm bolts are torqued to 7.5 ft/lbs =10Nm* . For aluminum. Don't muddle the steel vs. aluminum or you will be Helicoiling. For both, tighten in at least 3 progressive stages. 11. If you use a zip tie - beware that the entire force of the big spring in The Actuator is trying to bend the tint plastic tang that engages on the little ribs of the plastic zip tie. When that inevitably fails....be ready or use a threaded rod as described above. I'll do a write up for the later cars when I get mine fixed. Last edited by Gelbster; 04-12-2017 at 02:34 PM.