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Originally Posted by WorkInProgressK
JP, you are just throwing information that is not possible to measure easily and if you did, should have graphs and data showing it.
About the thermostat. You are measuring the temperature after the thermostat, not at the radiator. All 986s(without center rad) has the same thermal capacity. The only difference is that the proportion of the heat is located in the engine or in the radiator given the same amount of usage and type of usage. The delta temperature(difference between two values) will be different I agree, but it will not affect daily function or be worth it. All you will get is a car that is terrible to use in the morning when its 40-60F outside with much less cabin heat and increase emissions. Considering even california weather that is still half the time used as a commuter.
About the impeller damage. I would love to see pictures. Also considering the person who let a weeping pump long enough for the water pump to fail axially, they wouldn't see the difference in coolant performance anyway. Proper usage you wouldn't see major failures of the pump.
I am just trying show that people should look at a choice in the big scheme of things rather then facing specific problems. Lower Thermostat, under driven pulley, oil cooler, 3000 miles oil change on synthetic , great way to make money on people with more money then time to educate themselves on their car. Listening to "experts".
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Again, I disagree. And I apologize that the shop does not take the time to prepare pretty Power Point presentations for you, but that is not what we are about.
The thermostat functions as a throttling device, restricting the volume of coolant returning from the radiators to the engine. As such, a lower temperature stat actually opens sooner (read at a lower temp) than the factory stat, so operating a vehicle with a 160F stat will actually get heat sooner than with an OEM stat. This is a common observation customers give us after changing over, and as we live in an area that often sees weeks of zero or sub zero temperatures, customers that use their cars as daily drivers would be screaming if there was a heat or warmup time issue. Yet in all the years we have been installing these stats, we have not had one complaint, only comments that is nice to get more heat sooner in the winter because the stat is opening sooner and allowing more warm water to circulate.
Metal impeller pumps do not have to completely fail in order to chew up the engine cases. There is only a few thousandth's of clearance between the impeller and the cases, and when these pumps start to wear and the impeller shaft starts to wobble, and they all do, the machining starts. We have had cars come in with complaints of seeping pumps, only to dump the coolant and find it full of finely ground aluminum, requiring us to flush the system to get all the metal out. And after installing a new pump and fresh coolant, the cars returned with complaints of running hotter than normal, particularly in warmer weather. A couple of these customers got annoyed enough about this issue to take the cars back to a dealer, who pulled the water pump, looked at the damage, and promptly told the owners that they needed a replacement engine as the impeller damage could not be repaired. They also confirmed that this is something they see regularly with metal impeller pumps, and why Porsche does not use them.
As for whether or not people choose believe, or even listen to what I have to say, that is entirely up to them. And quite plainly, I do not care if they do or do not choose to listen to us. Those that know me will tell you that I have never posted the name or location of my business online, or on any of the forums I either moderate on or participate in. We don't need any more business than we already have, we are doing just fine. We simply try to inform interested parties in what we have observed or experienced over some thirty years of building, racing, and repairing Porsches.