Quote:
Originally Posted by particlewave
I've read tons of threads, Pelicans how-to and gone over it in the Bentley, but would appreciate any fresh perspectives from those that have done their own clutch.(
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I have just done this task on a 3.2l +6 speed. Which do you have ?
To do this job well, plan on way more time than you can possibly imagine.
For example, this is a great time to:
1. replace the AOS and any cracked hoses
2. RMS IMSB
3. Driveshaft boots. For the 6 speed an 8mm wobble hex bit 3/8" drive makes it easier.
4. If it is a 6 speed, consider fitting a detent- the new design.
5. Consider replacing the header bolts in the crankcase halves with s/s.
6. Inspect the trans mounts before you remove them and consider replacement.
Be wary of the "Oh ,it's a breeze descriptions" . For example the DMF is over 30 pounds and if you are doing this on ramps - be very careful when you remove the last bolt....
Use one old bolt to make a thread chaser. You'll be using all new bolts anyway. Note the updated torque/degree spec for the bolts.
The bellhousing bolts- clean them as you remove them. Mark the head of each bolt and the corresponding area of the engine with a black sharpie per Pelican's layout. Do not rely on measuring the depth of each threaded hole in the engine and matching the bolts.The bolts are shorter,some much shorter than the full depth of the threaded holes - but you will know this from the thread chasing task.
Remove the CPS to avoid damaging it
Do not ding the reluctor teeth on the DMF .If you do, bend them back very carfully an accurately
Dress the leading edge of the input shaft splines and grease lightly. This will avoid many of the problems experienced in mating the gearbox .
The clutch/pilot alignment tool - for the 6 speed(not 5) a cheap ,plastic tool worked .The specs are 1" x 19/32" 23 spline. It was intended for a Ford Explorer ! Part # T-869B.
But the difficult alignment trick is to get the gearbox perfectly level/aligned with the engine. Without a Trans jack that has a tilt adjustment, this could be a difficult/damaging/dangerous process.It is easy to get the spines engaged.The problem is the last 1/2" .If you let the weight of the gearbox 'hang' on the input shaft and clutch ......
Fit the clutch slave cylinder to the gearbox before you refit the gearbox to the engine.If you forget, and have difficulties, apply some vaseline to the rubber boot to help it slide in.
Consider using aluminum or brass guide pins for the Bellhousing, DMF and clutch Pressure Plate.
Consider using either green wicking Loctite or the 'medium' blue threadlock paste where appropriate.
Be very particular about the torque of the DMF bolts and the driveshaft bolts.If they loosen ...
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