Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM
Hey KRAM36,
Where did you get your silicone couplers, particularly the 90 degree? I read to use a 3.25" to 3" 90 degree reducer, can't seem to find one (silicone intakes.com, etc). Are you using something else?
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I used this to the TB, never mind what the picture says. The tube is 80mm.
Racing Silicone Hose Elbow Coupler Pipe 3 15" to 3 15" 90 Degree ID 80 mm Black | eBay
I used the end of my stock air pipping and that has the same O/D as the TB, but it is very thin, so I ordered in these, using 2 of them to strengthen the end of the pipping. One of them you will have to sand down a bit (put it in first), then the other one goes right on top of it and seals perfectly to the stock pipping. I also have the plastic welder that TRK mentioned and bonded them to the pipping.
One Set of 4 Hub Centric Rings Size 71 5mm to 75mm | eBay
Plastic Welder, man this thing comes in handy.
80 Watt Iron Plastic Welding Kit TPO TEO PP Rod Mesh Auto Car Welder Repair Kit | eBay
I got the same one from Harbor Freight. If you have a Harbor Freight I would get it from there. They are not of the best quality and if it breaks, just take it back for an exchange.
80 Watt Iron Plastic Welding Kit
I also used this to go from the stock MAF housing to the stock pipping, but since you're using the stock air box, you may want to use a 90° coupler there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251554367827
and I also used a 75mm honeycomb air straightener at the MAF housing so the MAF sensor gets a better reading.
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
I molded my stock MAF housing into the 987 MAF housing. This keeps the car from running lean and when I'm ready to open up to the 987 MAF housing size, I just unclip the stock MAF house and clip in the 987 MAF housing.
That will wait until I have my exhaust mods done, then I go get a tune done on her.
