Blue boxster resurrection project

[pilot4fn]

Fantastic thread! Thanks for sharing this project with us

[Homeoboxter]

Thanks for the interest and encouragement!

For pistons 1-2-3 I could have used some conventional tool as they go into the cylinders like on any average engine. But, since I already have the Porsche-specific toolset for pistons 4-5-6, I just used that.

Here`s what it looks like:





It was something like $80 on Amazon and probably it`s made in China

Everything prepared for the procedure:



Circlip inserted into the tool. Some builders use an extra tool to compress the ring so they can insert it into the tool, I just forced it in with my fingers.



It`s in. I didn`t make pictures of the failed attempts, there were many though. Then I realized I have to hit the slider in the tube quite strongly to smash the circlip into the groove.





Ring compressor. If you don`t want to buy it, you can rent one for free at Autozone.





For arranging the ring gaps, I took my SAAB shop manual off the shelf. Annoyingly, there`s no such manual for the Porsche available for a hobby mechanic like me. It`s not rocket science though, you just have to rotate the rings so that you minimize the blow by between the piston and cylinder wall.

[Homeoboxter]

I inserted pistons 1-2-3 into the cylinders. It`s quite straightforward, just like on a conventional in-line engine.








Conrod bolts are now tightened down to 20Nm followed by a 90 degree turn as per direction from the 986 manual. Interestingly, the 987 manual`s direction differs, in spite of the very same bolts. It suggests that they should be torqued down to 20Nm plus 110 degrees, which then should be completely undone and retorqued to 20Nm and 110. Weird.. Since I still could do this easily, I`m thinking of retorquing the bolts based on the 987 directions. Not that it makes a big difference, but probably the engineers made this upgrade for a reason.

[Qingdao]

Call me stupid, but how does one get the wrist pin in piston #5?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

Call me stupid, but how does one get the wrist pin in piston #5?

Ha!
I haven't done it, but one of my friends has described the process to me. I can't help, except to assure you it isn't something obviously simple.... you're in good company....
And im sorry. Haha.

I LOVE the thread!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Qingdao]

I've seen Subaru's done with the little hole, but there are 6 problems on this motor not just 4.


Air cooled jugs are easy.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

I've seen Subaru's done with the little hole, but there are 6 problems on this motor not just 4.


Air cooled jugs are easy.

I`ve done some practicing on inserting the wristpin and the circlip just so I won`t have to split the engine halves after they are assembled. It`s quite straightforward, but you need some tools to do the trick.

This engine has only one hole to insert the wristpin and the circlips for all three pistons. It`s covered by this plug:




The manual suggests that this special tool that bolts on the side of the engine block should be used to fit the mandrel, but I could assemble everything without it.




The steel rod with the sleeve is to be used to slide the wristpins in, one by one. I`m showing the plastic mandrel here, but that`s not the correct tool for that. My bad. The sequence is obviously piston6/wristpin/circlip - piston5/wristpin/circlip - piston4/wristpin/circlip.



After inserting the wristpin with the rod, you use the same tool to hold the circlip in its end which then can be pushed into the piston`s groove using the sliding hammer inside the tube.






Easy, isn`t it?