2004 S for trackdays and anydays

[ericd]

Car is getting better.
I had to travel a bit but back to business... some parts arriving now. getting ready to get to work on it....







More soon.

[ericd]

Going on this weekend (I think) - Ill write a bit about it when I get into the swap

[eric-d]

Finally got around to getting it up in the air.

Got the pan off and swapped in the EBS motorsport baffle. Worth the reasonable price for a bit more protection in steady state cornering.

It is a tight fit, and i dint like the pressure exerted by the foam pad on the side dams to the front side of the pan as its a thin aluminum casting, so i removed the foam from the top of these dams and cleaned off the adhesive.

Managed this with a minimum of swearing and no blood. I am amazed.

Tomorrow brakes.



OEM



EBS with dams to keep oil flowing to pickup

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by eric-d

Finally got around to getting it up in the air.

Got the pan off and swapped in the EBS motorsport baffle. Worth the reasonable price for a bit more protection in steady state cornering.

It is a tight fit, and i dint like the pressure exerted by the foam pad on the side dams to the front side of the pan as its a thin aluminum casting, so i removed the foam from the top of these dams and cleaned off the adhesive.

Managed this with a minimum of swearing and no blood. I am amazed.

Tomorrow brakes.

I did this upgrade earlier this year with the exact same baffles (EBS) and had the same problem on my 02 Boxster 3.2. I ended up removing the rubber edging (foams) on the top of both side dams just like you did. The sump plate would not fit correctly otherwise... I do hope that this does not reduce the efficiency of the "holding" or "sealing" too much.

I also now have a 2 quart Accusump with full filtration remote oil filter setup installed and I hope the combination of the EBS baffle and Accusump will greatly mitigate the effects of oil starvation on our wet sump systems... Was also thinking of upgrading to the 987/997 oil cooler (taller) for reduced oil temps at the track. I don't think a 2 quart deep sump (or any deep sump) is a good idea especially for a track car. I'm not a fan of having the sump being lower than the rest of the undercarriage, much less with a lowered suspension. Dry sump would be the best (Chris Cervelli) https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/981880-boxster-dry-sump-system.html

[eric-d]

Thanks for the inputs -

Glad to hear I am not alone in removing the foam on the EBS unit.

Will consider strongly the deeper sump as well.

For HDPE this year I am going to run on pilot sports and OEM suspension as I want to learn the car and its balance in a raw form. I did brakes and some of the other things to make sure it can survive the day.

Next steps will be deciding how far I want to go with suspension. I want to baseline the car to understand what changes I would like before jumping in. Have done that in the past and didnt end up where I wanted because I didnt really know where I was starting from.

The pulley and engine details are a good idea as well. I may get to those this winter.

[itsnotanova]

Originally Posted by ericd

Going on this weekend (I think) - Ill write a bit about it when I get into the swap

Very nice.

[Porsche9]

Nice Boxster and write up.

Make sure you don't get any sealant in the sump.

Look forward to seeing the other work you do on the car.

[eric-d]

Ok Brake time -

The Girodiscs are a great solution to gain proper competition spec 2 piece construction for weight savings and increased cooling potential.

The set is larger in diameter by 22mm front and 27mm rear, (340mm/325mm vs 318/298mm) and includes color coded billet spacers and longer bolts to set the calipers in the proper radial location.

And even though the set is larger in diameter, Front is 19.8lbs and giro is 17.2 lbs 2.6lb diff each. In total the system loses about 11.5lbs in total off all the OE rotors. That’s a worthwhile loss in rotational inertia.

The mechanical brake torque is up by 8% based on the caliper piston center being a moved out radially by 11mm (front) from where the OE was. Torque actually increases additionally from the higher friction value of the pads, but I don’t have metrics for the difference. Another bonus is that fade resistance is increased via the rotor having 9% more surface area, while still cooling better based on 2 piece construction and an improved vane design.

The Girodisc rotors have a proper curved vane design to cool better with more air reaching the vents and pumping out. It’s a great win-win to loose rotational inertia and gain thermal and brake torque performance.

I am also trying out the Girodisc SS pads – these are an intermediate solution between a full race pad and OE. They come recommended as a good pad for something that is primarily a roadcar and needs to perform at trackdays.

I will let you guys know if they make significant dust or noise over the OEMs.

Last item is Pentosin (ATE) Super fluid. Picked this one as it has a 500F dry boil point and a 330F wet point. Because I don’t want to be concerned to drain fluid once or twice a year, this fluid makes sense as it has a very low hygroscopic (water attracting) index. Racing fluids like Motul are really good, but are more hygroscopic and not meant to be left in a system very long. Also the Boxster isn’t known to boil fluid as a common issue. So this fluid is more than enough for my use.

Spacers and bolts from kit


Front rotor comparison


Rear rotor comparison

[eric-d]

Spacers are color coded F/R. Nicely made billet pieces with laser etch






mounted between caliper and knuckle. Can also see how open the curved vane vents are



Backside of front rotors compared, notice hoe open the entry for ventilating air is in the center of rotor:



Same at the rear, look at the opening difference


BTW the orange tool in the image is a super handy racing caliper pad/piston spreader from girodisc as well - quick lever action opens pads and retracts pistons in one stroke - good for pits at enduros

[eric-d]

Like art! Almost hate to make them work hard (almost)



Compared to OEM




Fills the wheel nicely too