Intermittent Top problem

[racer_d]

I have been experiencing what I would call an Intermittent issue with the top of my Boxster.

I have a MY 2000, bought recently...

I have noticed the need to pull the hand brake up seemingly "through the roof" in order for whatever sensor there is to notice that the parking brake is engaged before lowering/raising the top.

This past weekend, while engaging the Emergency brake, the warning light would not go "on" and thus I couldn't move the top. I set and released the brake a handful of times to no avail. I then turned the car off and on again, and the light came on as expected and the top worked. This sure is annoying more than anything.

So. What kind of sensor (I assume electric vs mechanical) is there for the top to notice when the E-Brake has been engaged?

Anyone else have this problem?

I skimmed my Bentley manual. Under the "e-brake" adjustment section there was not mention of a "top" sensor. In the "top" section there was no cross reference to the e-brake needing to be set.

The wiring diagram, well, I am not good with wiring diagrams

[CJ_Boxster]

Its electrical, and there is no adjustment, its located under the console and bolted to the ebrake assembly, you need to remove the center console to get it out unless someone here knows how to get it out with out removing the console.... its common issue and an easy fix.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

The Top Control Relay piggybacks onto the Parking Brake Indicator Light Circuit to prevent operation if the Brake isn't applied.

There is so sensor per se, all you're looking for is the switch which is attached to the Parking Brake mechanism. It is a MOMO switch which the Parking Brake Lever merely depresses when raised and releases when lowered. The PN# is 996.613.112.01 and an old catalog from ******************************************** lists it at $5 (though I bet it's gone up).

These switches wear out over time in addition to being subjected to dust and dirt which can migrate into the Brake Lever mechanism, some have cleaned them with success, but I'd probably just replace it. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[racer_d]

Thanks Jim. I knew there had to be a connection but couldn't find what I was hoping for in the manual to explain it better. I assume that this "piggyback" feature is what get's over-ridden, essentially, in the "smart-top" conversion that then allows one to move the top, even at a slow speed.

I assume that if I pull cup the center console I might get a better idea? Or is this part hidden somewhere else?? thanks

[FrayAdjacent]

Is the e-brake idiot light coming on when you have this problem? Or does it stay off?

From what I'm understanding, when that idiot light comes on, then the top motor switch is enabled. No light, no top worky.

[racer_d]

Originally Posted by FrayAdjacent

Is the e-brake idiot light coming on when you have this problem? Or does it stay off?

From what I'm understanding, when that idiot light comes on, then the top motor switch is enabled. No light, no top worky.

Sometimes both. The light can be on and the top still not work. Or. the brake can be on, the light NOT come on and the top not work.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by racer_d

Thanks Jim. I knew there had to be a connection but couldn't find what I was hoping for in the manual to explain it better. I assume that this "piggyback" feature is what get's over-ridden, essentially, in the "smart-top" conversion that then allows one to move the top, even at a slow speed.

I assume that if I pull cup the center console I might get a better idea? Or is this part hidden somewhere else?? thanks

Hi,

Yes, the relay uses the Parking Indicator Light Circuit to energize the relay to switch the high current circuit to the Top Motor.

The Smart Top module eliminates this function. I'm not a big fan of Smart Top because at any speed, you do stress the Top mechanism more than if the car were stationary. But, you could restrict it's use to only when the car isn't moving.

Remove the Center Console, and you'll see the switch. As I said, sometimes it's just corrosion on the connector or dirt and dust. On a 6 yo car, I'd probably just replace it.

The other weak spot in the system is the Latch Switch on the windshield header. This switch must also be closed (by having the Latch detached) in order to complete the circuit, and this switch is also notorious for sticking. A pencil, popcicle stick or other soft piece inserted will often work this loose if it's sticking.

Finally, there is a microswitch located in the passenger side 'B' Pillar which stops the mechanism once the Top is fully retracted. This switch can also stick and prevent proper operation although this switch seems to be a better placement/design, and it hardly ever fails...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[acf53]

I have the exact same problem. Should I take this back to the dealership to fix (out of warranty though) ? Is this an expensive fix ?

[racer_d]

Originally Posted by acf53

I have the exact same problem. Should I take this back to the dealership to fix (out of warranty though) ? Is this an expensive fix ?

The part itself is about $5 (I got mine at pelican)

You will need some Torx drivers to remove the bolts that hold the center console in place. If you don't have it, you will need to find a guide that explains how to remove the center console. Not hard, but if your not mechanically inclined or fear snapping cheap plastic, then be forwarned.

In addition, as I did, depending how far up you pull the e-brake you may need to adjust that as well.

That said, it took me about 5 mins to replace the switch once the console was removed. Adjusting the parking brake took about 30 minutes.

[acf53]

thanks I'll look into the fix.