Torn CV boot

[Quadcammer]

dude sorry but thats bush league as ****************. I get replacing it is an ass pain, but do it properly, its not hard and it doesn't take that long.

[Robert986]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

dude sorry but thats bush league as ****************. I get replacing it is an ass pain, but do it properly, its not hard and it doesn't take that long.

😁👍

I don't have time for a proper repair until about three weeks from now and want to keep the car on the road.. 50/50 it will hold up.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Robert986

😁👍

I don't have time for a proper repair until about three weeks from now and want to keep the car on the road.. 50/50 it will hold up.

50/50 it takes out the wires for the brake wear and speed sensors. ...but I did something like that on an old Honda once and it didn't kill me.

[Robert986]

Originally Posted by 78F350

50/50 it takes out the wires for the brake wear and speed sensors. ...but I did something like that on an old Honda once and it didn't kill me.

Good point it just might take those wires out.

But seriously, if I would try to adress it properly, is the easiest way this:

1. Jack up car etc, remove the protective alu plate and the alu cross bar on the drivers side.
2. Remove the catalytic converter.
3. Unbolt the inner cv joint from the transmission
4. Fold down the axle (outer part still attached)
5. Remove inner cv joint
6. Remove outer broken cv boot & MacGyver fix :-)
7. Put on the new outer boot from the inner side of axle. (new grease first)
8. Reattach inner cv to axle
9. Bolt everything back

Is this doable or do I need to remove the whole axle?

[Newsguy]

Just did both of mine that way. And if you get the GKN kit, it includes grease and the pinch clamps.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by Robert986

Good point it just might take those wires out.

But seriously, if I would try to adress it properly, is the easiest way this:

1. Jack up car etc, remove the protective alu plate and the alu cross bar on the drivers side.
2. Remove the catalytic converter.
3. Unbolt the inner cv joint from the transmission
4. Fold down the axle (outer part still attached)
5. Remove inner cv joint
6. Remove outer broken cv boot & MacGyver fix :-)
7. Put on the new outer boot from the inner side of axle. (new grease first)
8. Reattach inner cv to axle
9. Bolt everything back

Is this doable or do I need to remove the whole axle?

Once you have the axle disconnected from the transmission all you need to do is remove the axle nut and the axle can be removed. If you are lucky you don't even have to remove the wheel, just the center cap to get to the nut. I was unlucky and had to remove the wheel and brake disk and use a puller to get the axle out of the hub. On the other side the axle came out with a few taps of a hammer.
I like your temporary solution... I would perhaps add some backup zip ties.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by Robert986

😁👍

I don't have time for a proper repair until about three weeks from now and want to keep the car on the road.. 50/50 it will hold up.

Yeah, I suppose it might "hold up" but I think the only thing it accomplishes is to keep CV grease from slinging everywhere. It can't see how it will keep grease IN the joint. I think you'll find a bunch of it lining the patchwork sleeve that you've applied. But that grease hasn't been doing the CV any good. I guess it'll also help to keep dirt OUT of the joint, so I suppose it's helpful in that sense.

A related question: Anybody out there acquire any sort of sense as to how much superior OEM Porsche boots are compared with the aftermarket ones that most people seem to gravitate to? I mean GEEEZ, the Porsche ones are 10x the price. I'd bet the farm they don't last 10x as long. That said, if they lasted 2x or 3x as long I'd be perfectly willing to make that investment just to delay the labor involved with replacing them.