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Old 10-09-2006, 12:04 PM   #1
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Things NOT to do

Facts on a 2000 Blue 2.7 liter Boxster that I purchased brand new.

#1 Recently bought a gas powered 2200 PSI power washer and found out a few things not to do.
a. Thought that I'd use it on my soft top roof to rid the car of the nasty plastic wax that Porsche sells to keep the back window clear (No matter how hard you try, you always get just a little onto the fabric). It works great, but it changes the texture of fabric. Now I can see swirl marks from the high pressure wash. I've applied the Porsche water proofing fabric spray, and while it's better, it still visible.
b. While you can wash the metal parts of the car with the high pressure hose at an angle; using it on the front plastic bumper will remove the paint. A small area 1/2 the size of a dime is now missing. While I’m sure no one will notice, I know it's there, or rather not there.
c. You can power wash the tires and rims, but not the plastic Porsche emblem in the center of the wheel. The silver paint peels off.

#2 The Bentley Porsche manual recommends the use of an 11 mm "line wrench" to prevent rounding the corners of the brake bleeder valves. I actually found that it was easier to round the corners with this specialty wrench than it was with a straight open end wrench.

#3 If you bleed the brakes, you might just as well bleed the clutch while you are at it. It's clutch bleeder valve is located on the upper left side of the manual transmission. (Not sure where it is on the AT, but I'm sure it will be in the same general vicinity). This little guy requires a 9mm wrench, and not the 11 mm like the brakes. Try to find one of those baby's 10 PM on a Saturday.

#4 When you remove the plastic shrouds that cover the engine area, wear protective eyewear. For some reasons small rocks and other road debris love to hide on top of them.

#5 When you replace the shrouds from #4 above, you can somewhat torque the metal screws, but the 10mm nuts are made from plastic. DO NOT torque them in any way shape or form, or your will strip them. In fact, if I can find a source that’s not too $$$$, I'll just buy new attaching hardware for my next under car adventure.

#6 ALWAYS, replace the oil drain plug washer and use a torque wrench to tighten it to specifications (37 ft lbs). That flexible Permatech (sp) gasket stuff in a tube and the old washer does not work with a crap. When it leaks, it will spread a very thin brown like substance that covers the oil drain area and points forward, yes that's right, I said forward, that hide under the plastic shroud, and not a drop will get on your brand new garage floor. I thought it was some kind of under car sealant at first.

#7 When you clean the brown crud off the under side of the car with spray on brake cleaning fluid, wear protective eyewear (see item 4 above as well) and do it in a VERY VERY open area. Even in my three car garage with all of the doors open, I still got light headed.


Well, that's all of the bone headed things I can thing of right now. If you learn from your mistakes, I now have the IQ of a genius.


Last edited by jrkauffman28; 10-09-2006 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 01:49 PM   #2
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good god. how did you make it this far in life? do you still have the gift of sight? 10 fingers / 10 toes? you're hysterical! be safe.
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Old 10-09-2006, 03:20 PM   #3
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Best post I have read all week


Welcome jrkauffman28!
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrkauffman28
Facts on a 2000 Blue 2.7 liter Boxster that I purchased brand new.


#3 you might just as well bleed the clutch while you are at it. It's clutch bleeder valve is located on the upper left side of the manual transmission. (Not sure where it is on the AT, but I'm sure it will be in the same general vicinity).

LOL I sure hope that no one here tries to bleed there cluth fluid on there Automatic transmission

...Automatic cars do not have clutch fluid...they have whats called a Stall Converter which is installed in place of the clutch...at low rpms it isnt engauging but once rpms raise it will slowly engauge which inturn allows the car to roll without stalling....I nice thing to invest in for the automatics with alot of performance parts is maybe a stall converter with a slightly higher rpm engaugement...i think thats what gives you better jump off the line.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:04 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=jrkauffman28]

#6 ALWAYS, replace the oil drain plug washer and use a torque wrench to tighten it to specifications (37 ft lbs). That flexible Permatech (sp) gasket stuff in a tube and the old washer does not work with a crap. When it leaks, it will spread a very thin brown like substance that covers the oil drain area and points forward, yes that's right, I said forward, that hide under the plastic shroud, and not a drop will get on your brand new garage floor. I thought it was some kind of under car sealant at first.

QUOTE]

I've used my old washer for 3 oil changes now and I haven't noticed any leaks yet. Just incase I need one, where can I find a crush washer? They don't come with my OEM Porsche filters.
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Last edited by Adam; 10-09-2006 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
LOL I sure hope that no one here tries to bleed there cluth fluid on there Automatic transmission

...Automatic cars do not have clutch fluid...they have whats called a Stall Converter which is installed in place of the clutch...at low rpms it isnt engauging but once rpms raise it will slowly engauge which inturn allows the car to roll without stalling....I nice thing to invest in for the automatics with alot of performance parts is maybe a stall converter with a slightly higher rpm engaugement...i think thats what gives you better jump off the line.
Hi,

FYI, it's not called a Stall Converter, it's called a Torque Converter and it works by running a set of vanes (Impeller) in a Bell (Torque Converter) Housing which is attached to the Flywheel. The bell is filled with Hydraulic Fluid (ATF Fluid). The Flywheel turns the Impeller and causes the Hydraulic Fluid to move in a circular motion around the Bell, this moving ATF then turns another set of Impeller vanes located on the rear of the Torque Converter Housing which is attached to the primary shaft of the transmission. It is essentially a Fluid Coupling. The second set of impellers drives a pump(s) which cause the transmission to shift gears w/o having to select a gear with a shifter. In other words, the power produced by the engine is transferred to the transmission by the pressure of the Hydraulic Fluid (ATF) alone with no mechanical means. This is why it's called a Torque Converter, because it converts the mechanical, rotary, power produced by the engine (Torque) into Hydraulic Pressure which then drives the transmission and ultimately the rear wheels (on a RWD car).

At idle, the flywheel isn't spinning at sufficient RPMs for the Impeller in the Torque Converter Housing to raise the pressure of the Hydraulic Fluid (ATF) enough to overcome the the resistance of the brakes. It doesn't need a conventional Clutch because there is no direct mechanical link to the Flywheel and Engine, and this is why you can stay in gear when at a stop w/o stalling the engine. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 10-10-2006 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:43 PM   #7
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well done jim

clearest explanation I've ever heard for an automatic transmission
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrkauffman28
...#2 The Bentley Porsche manual recommends the use of an 11 mm "line wrench" to prevent rounding the corners of the brake bleeder valves. I actually found that it was easier to round the corners with this specialty wrench than it was with a straight open end wrench...
Hi,

Good write-up. Just FYI, the correct name, and the correct tool to use for opening/closing bleeder valves on brakes and clutch slave cylinders is a Flare Nut Wrench.

These wrenches resemble an ordinary closed-end wrench except that instead of being 12-sided (or sometimes 6-sided), it has one of the facets removed making it 10-sided (or sometimes 5-sided). This allows the wrench to be passed over a hydraulic line (brake line, clutch line) and still get a better grip on the fastening nut (Flare Nut). It gives you more of a mechanical advantage than a 2-faceted open-face wrench has, often necessary to loosen Flare Nuts and Bleeder valves which can be stubborn.

If you use an open-faced wrench, you will (eventually anyway) round off the Flare Nut, or, without the ability to apply sufficient torque to the nut, you won't get a tight, leak-proof, seal when tightening it.

Flare Nut wrenches are commonly sold in sets (usually 3 w/ 6 size combos) and every well-equipped toolbox should have a set. The cost is usually considerably less than the cost (and aggravation) of replacing a hydraulic line with a rounded Flare Nut...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 10-10-2006 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 10-10-2006, 03:41 PM   #9
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I have a set of line/flair nut wrenches. Never tried to used them on a brake bleed nipple. I use a box end wrench as there are more contact points.

The nipple on the clutch slave is another story....
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Old 10-10-2006, 03:54 PM   #10
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one thing of note: the angle / thickness on many brands of line wrench make it difficult or impossible to get a proper grip on the boxster's bleed screws. the problem is that the wrench will rub part of the caliper as you turn it; the wrench lifts slightly from the bleed screw and it's easy to round off the head. i have an 11mm box wrench that i cut to fit over the line and onto the bleed screw. it works like a champ
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:23 PM   #11
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"The nipple on the clutch slave is another story...."
Ha, sorry, but that just cracks me up.

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