What should I do next?

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Strawfordt

Hi again,

Anyone know which Torx Security head I'll need for the MAF sensor removal?

I think'it's a T20H.


That would be the male of female driver required?

Hi,

Yes, it's a T-20 anti-tamper. The Torque value is 2-3 Nm (2-3 Ft. Lbs.) so go easy when reinstalling it.

Try cleaning it, this works if the MAF is only dirty. They do fail though as well, so while you have it out, note the PN# on it in case you need to order one in the future. There were several variations, so you need to know the one your car has.

Also, should the car ever fail on the road, and you suspect the MAF, just disconnect the electrical connector to it. This will cause a CEL (if you don't already have one), but the DME will go into 'Open Loop' and select a default MAP. Performance and mileage will suffer, but it will get you home w/o damaging the engine or emissions gear, service it ASAP. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[prOk]

why do so many people think clearing the codes is a fix? The car threw the codes for a reason

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by prOk

why do so many people think clearing the codes is a fix? The car threw the codes for a reason

Hi,

You're kind of stating the obvious here, there is always a reason that a code is thrown (not that you can always find it or duplicate it).

But, those reasons can range from a worn or inoperative component, such as an Oil Separator, O² Sensor or MAF, a Tank of Bad Fuel, or even just a one-time glitch, such as when you need to reboot your PC. Almost any component using microprocessors (which is really all the DME is) can experience these.

Proper diagnosis of any problem should include resetting the DME. This eliminates the possibility that it may have been such a one-time glitch. If the CEL re-occurs, then you know to dig deeper, that the DME is probably not the culprit.

You decipher the code and move on to those components or conditions (such as possible bad gas, heavy rainfall, etc.) which could be related to that code and try to find that one (either by intuition, experience, component testing, or some combination of all three) which is the cause...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[xclusivecar]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,



Also, should the car ever fail on the road, and you suspect the MAF, just disconnect the electrical connector to it. This will cause a CEL (if you don't already have one), but the DME will go into 'Open Loop' and select a default MAP. Performance and mileage will suffer, but it will get you home w/o damaging the engine or emissions gear, service it ASAP. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

You would think the computer would automatically go into "open loop mode" rather than flashing its cel and allowing you to do even more damage to your car if not careful.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by xclusivecar

You would think the computer would automatically go into "open loop mode" rather than flashing its cel and allowing you to do even more damage to your car if not careful.

Hi,

A failed MAF isn't going to damage the car/engine, just prevent it from running especially well.

The DME may already be in Open Loop depending upon what, if anything, the MAF is telling it. The signal may just be degraded (bad, but still functional), emulating the worst possible operating parameter, that is, at the extreme, but still functional. So the DME (possibly further confused by non-corroberating signals from other sensors like the O²s), selects the wrong MAP and the car runs like ********************. The DME doesn't know that the MAF has failed, conditions could be such that this is actually what the MAF is experiencing or sensing, that it's not lying if you will.

By pulling the connnector, the DME now knows that the MAF is offline and goes right into an Open Loop default MAP...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[xclusivecar]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

A failed MAF isn't going to damage the car/engine, just prevent it from running especially well.

The DME may already be in Open Loop depending upon what, if anything, the MAF is telling it. The signal may just be degraded (bad, but still functional), emulating the worst possible operating parameter, that is, at the extreme, but still functional. So the DME (possibly further confused by non-corroberating signals from other sensors like the O²s), selects the wrong MAP and the car runs like ********************. The DME doesn't know that the MAF has failed, conditions could be such that this is actually what the MAF is experiencing or sensing, that it's not lying if you will.

By pulling the connnector, the DME now knows that the MAF is offline and goes right into an Open Loop default MAP...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Great explanation!!! I just find it funny that these computers know the signal coming from a sensor is bad, flashes the cel telling you not to drive the car, allows the car to run like ********************, yet isn't "smart" enough to bypass the failed sensor to allow a safe condition for driving. Manual intervention is needed.

[Strawfordt]

I cleaned my MAF last weekend and what a difference in the car. I cannot get over how much better the car runs. Alot more acceleration gained from this simple procedure.

Also for those who care, I also fixed the soft top problems that I had posted. I had to do it myself after this nincompoop that promised me the world and delivered me a steaming pile of ******************** totally destroyed my convertible top mechanisms. $450.00 was an expesive lesson.

I re-timed the arms using a level which was ideal. There is not even a creak during the top function now. I am amazed at what I learned about these tops. I really think that soft top mechanisms are a perfect DIY job.

Thanks everyone. This forum is fantastic.



Tom