Go Back   986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners > Porsche Boxster & Cayman Forums > Performance and Technical Chat

Post Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-09-2019, 08:24 AM   #1
Need For Speed
 
KRAM36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Funville
Posts: 2,112
Garage
Drive shaft question.

I'm going to be puling the drive shafts off my car and I'm wondering how I can tell if they are okay to put on new boots and repack with new grease or if they are worn out and just need to be tossed away? They currently have almost 128,000 miles on them.

Thanks!

__________________
2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |

Last edited by KRAM36; 05-09-2019 at 09:03 AM.
KRAM36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 11:14 AM   #2
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: 92262
Posts: 2,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAM36 View Post
I'm going to be puling the drive shafts off my car and I'm wondering how I can tell if they are okay to put on new boots and repack with new grease or if they are worn out and just need to be tossed away? They currently have almost 128,000 miles on them.

Thanks!
I'm curious (mine has <~125K). Are you doing this preventatively? Is there any indication of failure? Thanks!
__________________
1998 Porsche Boxster
Starter986 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 11:19 AM   #3
Need For Speed
 
KRAM36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Funville
Posts: 2,112
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post
I'm curious (mine has <~125K). Are you doing this preventatively? Is there any indication of failure? Thanks!
The outer boot on one side is cracked and the other side looks like it could go at any time.
__________________
2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |
KRAM36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 01:13 PM   #4
Registered User
 
steved0x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,143
On mine I removed the old boots, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with Redline High Temp CV-2 grease, at around 125,000'ish total miles. The boots were old but not cracked, but I did it because I was overheating the grease on track and it was coming out the axle vent hole. The Redline grease solved it.

I wondered the same thing, how to tell if the joint was still good, and the way I tested it was to hold the axle in one had, and the joint in the other had, and twist the joint to move the axle. If the axle moves right away, and there is no clicking/play from when you rotate the joint and when you feel the force in the axle, then I believe you are all good. I tried this throughout a couple of positions of CV joint extension with relation to the axle.
steved0x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 01:53 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,847
Steve, I have never disassembled the CV Joints of the Porsche, however I have done it many times with the Fiat and Alfa Romeo half shafts and never had an issue.

The CV Joints have basically five components:

1) Inner part of the bearing (with the splines for the half shaft)
2) Steel balls
3) Outer part of the bearing (with the holes for the flange bolts)
4) Steel circlip (..?) that keeps the CV joint assembly on the shaft
5) Rubber boot

When you complete disassemble and clean the CV joint, you will be able to inspect the races where the steel balls move, you will be able to easily see if the races on the inner and outer part of the CV joint are worn (or not smooth), IF one of them is worn most likely some of the balls are pitted as well.

I have mixed inner and outer sections (in good condition) without any issues.

As a matter of fact the times I had issues was caused by loose bolts (the ones that attach the CV Joint to the (hub or tranny) flanges, but that was my own fault..

PS: After removing the circlip from the shaft, you can remove the CV Joint and by rotating the inner section on it's axis allows you to separate the inner and outer sections of the bearing, just don't loose the balls...

Last edited by Gilles; 05-09-2019 at 01:57 PM.
Gilles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 02:00 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,643
Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
I wondered the same thing, how to tell if the joint was still good, and the way I tested it was to hold the axle in one had, and the joint in the other had, and twist the joint to move the axle. If the axle moves right away, and there is no clicking/play from when you rotate the joint and when you feel the force in the axle, then I believe you are all good. I tried this throughout a couple of positions of CV joint extension with relation to the axle.
This is how I test them. Most axles I come across are in good shape. Specially the S axles because they have much larger CV joints.
__________________
Woody
itsnotanova is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 05:28 PM   #7
Registered User
 
elgyqc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Laval QC
Posts: 681
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
...
I wondered the same thing, how to tell if the joint was still good, and the way I tested it was to hold the axle in one had, and the joint in the other had, and twist the joint to move the axle. If the axle moves right away, and there is no clicking/play from when you rotate the joint and when you feel the force in the axle, then I believe you are all good. I tried this throughout a couple of positions of CV joint extension with relation to the axle.
This sounds like a good test to me. Of course it should not be clicking when driven. My 928 developed a click that I noticed a low speed while backing into my driveway. The boots looked good, but one end of one was a bit loose and water poured out when I took the boot off. Even though there was plenty of grease still in there all the components were rusty. The other CV joint on the same half-shaft looked fine, but when I cleaned it to repack it with grease I found a gouge in the inner race that looked like a manufacturing defect that had been uncovered as the joint wore. Had to change both joints.
__________________
Grant
Arctic Silver 2000 Boxster S - bought with a broken engine, back on the road with the engine replaced
Green 2000 Boxster 5-speed and 1978 928 auto
1987 924S 5-speed (Sold) - Blue 2000 Boxster 5 spd (Sold)
elgyqc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 07:55 PM   #8
Need For Speed
 
KRAM36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Funville
Posts: 2,112
Garage
Thanks for the feedback all. I bought new shafts for the job. Hopefully the current shafts are okay and I can reboot and grease them, then either save them for future use or even sell them to make back some of the cost of the new shafts. I have not heard any clicking coming from them or anything abnormal. Once I get the job done, I'll pull these apart and if they are good to go I'll order in the new boots, clamps and grease.
__________________
2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |
KRAM36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 06:42 AM   #9
Registered User
 
BYprodriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAM36 View Post
Thanks for the feedback all. I bought new shafts for the job. Hopefully the current shafts are okay and I can reboot and grease them, then either save them for future use or even sell them to make back some of the cost of the new shafts. I have not heard any clicking coming from them or anything abnormal. Once I get the job done, I'll pull these apart and if they are good to go I'll order in the new boots, clamps and grease.
Hopefully OE new shafts.

__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
BYprodriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Post Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page