Go Back   986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners > Porsche Boxster & Cayman Forums > Performance and Technical Chat

Post Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-08-2018, 08:46 AM   #1
Registered User
 
BYprodriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
Garage
Rent a bore scope & inspect all the cylinders, then pull off the sump plate & look underneath with the scope.
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
BYprodriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 09:05 AM   #2
Who's askin'?
 
maytag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver View Post
Rent a bore scope & inspect all the cylinders, then pull off the sump plate & look underneath with the scope.
Good idea! So, what am I looking for? I mean, what are the weak spots on this motor? Am I looking for broken wrist pins? Bent rods? Broken ring lands? All or any of the above?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
maytag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 09:14 AM   #3
Registered User
 
911monty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
Garage
Based on some of the severe AOS failures i'd suggest removing the green plastic cam plugs and check for timing and rotation.

Apparently you want more. There are a several weak links in the cam drive system that can fail, but let's look at what happened to you. A previously healthy AOS fails after spin, not unlikely as oil accumulates in head from centrifugal force and overwhelms AOS, but this happens to a running engine. You say you restarted and a continuous smoke cloud ensues. How hard was the engine stop? A weak link in this scenario is the tang that drives the oil scavenge pump. If oil is not being pumped from the head the AOS also fails. Continuous smoke cloud. I'd certainly look here.

Last edited by 911monty; 10-08-2018 at 01:23 PM.
911monty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 05:01 PM   #4
Who's askin'?
 
maytag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by 911monty View Post
Based on some of the severe AOS failures i'd suggest removing the green plastic cam plugs and check for timing and rotation.

Apparently you want more. There are a several weak links in the cam drive system that can fail, but let's look at what happened to you. A previously healthy AOS fails after spin, not unlikely as oil accumulates in head from centrifugal force and overwhelms AOS, but this happens to a running engine. You say you restarted and a continuous smoke cloud ensues. How hard was the engine stop? A weak link in this scenario is the tang that drives the oil scavenge pump. If oil is not being pumped from the head the AOS also fails. Continuous smoke cloud. I'd certainly look here.
Thanks Monty; always helpful posts! I'll check the cams for sure.

See video, below. You'll see them come up on me as I recover from the spin. Then you'll see how the cloud goes. Does this look like I should consider the oil scavenge pump?
I shut the motor down after I pulled off track. Once back in the paddock (after a flatbed tow) I hit the starter; the motor turned about half revolution (-ish, haha) and then locked-up.

https://youtu.be/tCfB0xFVJhg
maytag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 05:24 PM   #5
Registered User
 
911monty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
Garage
I guess I should have said pumps, there are two one on each head, but for the cost of 2 o-rings I'd absolutely remove and check. Just make sure to mark for proper orientation before removal, they will go on either side but oil passages won't be lined up.
911monty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 06:45 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,973
maytag, sorry about your engine!

Just a crazy suggestion.. this is what I would have done at my garage since it's basic and helps you with a starting point

After removing the plugs, try to rotate the crank (hopefully) for a couple of 360's. If it goes, then with a compression gage you can see if the cylinders are close to each other's and move on.

Good luck!
Gilles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 07:40 PM   #7
Registered User
 
BYprodriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag View Post
Good idea! So, what am I looking for? I mean, what are the weak spots on this motor? Am I looking for broken wrist pins? Bent rods? Broken ring lands? All or any of the above?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Don't know what to tell you, just anything that looks different or shouldn't be there.
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
BYprodriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2018, 09:41 PM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,973
Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver View Post
Don't know what to tell you, just anything that looks different or shouldn't be there.
BY, how difficult would be to measure distance between the top of the piston and the plug? Could this help to ensure that you don't have a slightly bent rod?
Gilles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2018, 05:03 AM   #9
Who's askin'?
 
maytag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles View Post
BY, how difficult would be to measure distance between the top of the piston and the plug? Could this help to ensure that you don't have a slightly bent rod?
Thanks Gilles. A piston-stop is easy enough to build and use to check piston height, but a simple compression test will tell most of that story.

Thanks, everyone, for your responses here. I wasn't looking to start down a road of paranoia-induced "what-if" scenarios, haha. I just didn't want to start breathing a sigh of relief that I'd dodged a bullet, simply because the motor turns without making weird noises, without first checking to see if there are other COMMON breakage-points that I should be looking at.

It sounds to me like the typical AOS failure "catastrophe" happens at relatively high RPM's, where the energy in the rotating / reciprocating assembly is enough to break lots of things when that piston comes to a sudden hydraulically-locked stop. I think I avoided this. I think what I'm seeing is that after I shut off the motor, the oil continued to run (because of gravity) into the cylinder whose intake valve was open. Then when I hit the starter again, there was enough oil in that cylinder that it made a short attempt to compress, then locked. But the starter shouldn't provide enough energy (force) to break anything internally (other than, perhaps, the starter, haha).

SO:
Yes, I'm going to peek inside the cylinders with a borescope.... because I bought one and want to use it, haha. I'm considering a deeper sump & baffle, so if I do that, I'll also poke around with the borescope on that side. And Yes, I'll probably do a compression check, because all the plugs are out and the motor just clicked 150k miles: I'd like to see what we're dealing with. But then I'm going to clean it all up, button it back up, get it good-n-hot to burn out as much of the oil as I can, and hope I'm not looking at replacing o2 sensors, or other.

As for the AOS: I'm not entirely convinced that it's bad. I'm running on the working theory that this is all related to the spin, and I simply overwhelmed the AOS. I'm going to purchase a manometer, so I can check it once it's back together. In the meantime: I'm going to go trace-out the pathway of the AOS vent & drain, and look for a place to intercept and add a catch-can of sorts, that can give me a warning if it starts getting accumulation, but won't immediately dump it into the motor. Again: what a STUPID design this AOS is. Tell me again how brilliant the Porsche engineers are?

Thanks again everyone.
maytag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2018, 09:21 AM   #10
Registered User
 
911monty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
Garage
What no paranoia induced "what if" scenarios.......Too bad it's the season for a good scare HAHA.. so here goes. In case you missed this hair raising tale in your search read the attached. My post #31 and several later asks to check what the OP amazingly discovers in his second thread. For your Halloween amusement I present

AOS - Question

CamShaft Timing


PS I do have a question for data. Did you get the clutch released in the spin or did the engine possibly spin backward? Thanks

Last edited by 911monty; 10-09-2018 at 10:09 AM.
911monty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2018, 05:32 PM   #11
Who's askin'?
 
maytag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by 911monty View Post
What no paranoia induced "what if" scenarios.......Too bad it's the season for a good scare HAHA.. so here goes. In case you missed this hair raising tale in your search read the attached. My post #31 and several later asks to check what the OP amazingly discovers in his second thread. For your Halloween amusement I present

AOS - Question

CamShaft Timing


PS I do have a question for data. Did you get the clutch released in the spin or did the engine possibly spin backward? Thanks
aaaahhhhhh......
So, I can't even picture yet where these scavenge pumps are, and how they sit. I'll have to become more familiar. If one or both are bad, will I see that in a test of the AOS with a manometer?
And I'll definitely be checking the cam positions. Too easy to check to not do it....

Thanks Monty!
maytag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 06:54 AM   #12
Registered User
 
BYprodriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles View Post
BY, how difficult would be to measure distance between the top of the piston and the plug? Could this help to ensure that you don't have a slightly bent rod?
That will be hard to do. 1st I would remove all the spark plugs & just spin the engine over with the starter, should spin fast & easily. Look for any liquids coming out & identify. (oil, coolant,etc.)
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
BYprodriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 07:42 AM   #13
Who's askin'?
 
maytag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver View Post
That will be hard to do. 1st I would remove all the spark plugs & just spin the engine over with the starter, should spin fast & easily. Look for any liquids coming out & identify. (oil, coolant,etc.)
You'll note that your comment about spinning the motor with the starter is precisely the first thing I did, weeks ago. ;-) i guess we're thinking alike.

All the liquid I'm seeing come out of the motor is oil. I've seen no indication of coolant in the oil. Peering into the expansion tank, I see no indication of oil in the coolant.

The couple of specs found in the oil filter are probably not horrible, given the nearly 150k miles on the motor. ??

I'm really hopeful I've dodged the big bullet here. But the are enough things concerning me that I'm probably going to take it slow over the winter.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Last edited by maytag; 11-01-2018 at 09:06 AM.
maytag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2020, 08:24 AM   #14
Registered User
 
BYprodriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag View Post
Good idea! So, what am I looking for? I mean, what are the weak spots on this motor? Am I looking for broken wrist pins? Bent rods? Broken ring lands? All or any of the above?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


How did this workout ??
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
BYprodriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Post Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page