Thats good too know!

These manifolds aren't new. I've used then since 2012 and I'm sure people have used them with success since before that too. They may not be the ultimate manifolds for quality diameter or power but the age old question is how much do you want to spend and how fast do you want to go? These are good value.

Very interresting, might be worth while to try those manifolds / cats out for that kind of Money.

So, the manifolds are proven ok, how about the downpipes/200-cell cats? Any experiences on those bad boys?

Is this the new "standard" to use in combo with the popular FVD Sound version maybe? :)

Ive also previously used the cheapy 2 box eBay exhaust. Now on the car is a good used 2003 exhaust which I sent away to Carnewal and sent my much higher mileage but ok condition one in exchange.

That is the true question!

So I have ordered the Circuit Werks high flow cats with their tubes and bungs https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291 346654857
As well as a set of long tube headers: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322 648270861
So I guess that I get to make a new video! :dance:

Yeah I enjoy your videos!!!!!!

I must be one of the unlucky ones who has some trouble with their ebay headers. My flanges leading to the secondary cats are crooked enough that it makes mating the cats/midpipes to the rear section a chore and causes leaks at those couplers because of the extra stress on them. I've either got to take a chance on another pair of headers or have the flanges cut off and rewelded on mine.

Wow, anyone else have this problem? If mine have this I’m sure my video will contain many long beeps! Fingers crossed! :eek:

No bleeping out, it would be a misinterpratation of the frustations of working on a small sports car!:D

I had none of these problems. The only problem I had was the flange bolts.... which seems pretty common.

Having said that: my Ebay exhaust has developed an annoying rattle, that's only getting worse. It's internal to the left muffler, so... not something I can chase away.


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I’m curious to know if I might expect problems with the O2 sesors using this setup. I plan to use the bungs in the Circuit Werks tubes, fore and aft. I imagine that I will need to extend the wires. Any caveats?

I don't see why you would have an issue. The lambdas are in the same place as per a standard or aftermarket European cat and they use the same regular lambdas.

Yes, it’s not so much for the placement of the sensors, more the extending of the wires. (I’ve heard stories...). :rolleyes:

See post no. 6 here: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/72706-whats-difference-between-early-late-cat-delete-pipes.html

It is a current work-in-progress which I hope to complete the end of this week.

I can post an update then to advise how it all went, if interested.

Thanks - DM

So essentially here you’ve made an extension cord rather than splicing into the existing cord.

My point albeit admittedly not explicitly is that the lambda on European cars go in the same place and use standard lambdas sensors with no need for modified wiring so there should be an off the shelf solution unless there are different specs for the lambdas themself.

You are right, however the sensors on North American cars are placed on the headers and so the wires are shorter.

I would cross ref the part number to see if any other cars available to you used it. See if a motor factors can supply, if the price is right of course. Also worth maybe just buying abroad if the exchange rate is favourable.

NA cars have cats on the headers and on the mid pipes. ROW cars just have cats on the mid pipes. all cars require o2 sensors before the cats (for air/fuel mixing) and after (for emmissions). NA cars do this on the header cats, ROW cars do this on the mid-pipe cats. a quick check of the PET will show you the locations. in all cases (NA, ROW, air/fuel, emmissions) the sensors are the same (and are the same as the standard bosch o2 sensor of the era - mike folke has the data on his website); the only difference is length of wire. also, in 2003 they changed the connector. so, you can try to find oem with the proper length of wire, splice your current sensor longer, or get jeneric with pigtails and make your own.