Shop Time to Replace Engine Mount

[Geof3]

Yeah, it's not the most fun job to do on the jack stands. But definitely doable. Check around in your town and see if there are any DIY garages. We have one here that is fully equipped. Runs about 20.00 per hour for full access, lift etc. I just bring my specialty tools, if any, for the job. Having said all that, I did my mount in the garage because I needed to get it done for a track day and the DIY shop was booked. I am 100% with you on the dying desire to lie on my back on concrete, under a car...

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Geof3

Yeah, I am 100% with you on the dying desire to lie on my back on concrete, under a car...

I do lay on my back on concrete (w/card box) underneath my car quite often, and actually I enjoy it very much..

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by Gilles

I do lay on my back on concrete (w/card box) underneath my car quite often, and actually I enjoy it very much..

Ha, yeah. I'm 52 and though I am in good shape, I am less enthused by the proposition! I still do it, just would rather not!

[Brian in Tucson]

Originally Posted by Geof3

Ha, yeah. I'm 52 and though I am in good shape, I am less enthused by the proposition! I still do it, just would rather not!

Shucks, you're a youngster! I'm 66, retired, and I'm in the final stages of installing an engine in my 01 Box-base. Got arthritis in my shoulders and neck, even. On an average day working on it, I'd bet I crawl under there at least a dozen or 15 times. (Or more.)

I don't think I'd ever pay to have a motor mount replaced--but I have an air activated jack & and a cordless impact driver. Those box end wrenches with the ratcheting action help a lot, too.

I had a m/m insert pressed into my old aluminum mount--the insert wasn't expensive, and the shop is the most trusted one in town. Still, I took him a picture of the orientation so he could get it right. I think I have about $55 into the whole thing.

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson

Shucks, you're a youngster! I'm 66, retired, and I'm in the final stages of installing an engine in my 01 Box-base. Got arthritis in my shoulders and neck, even. On an average day working on it, I'd bet I crawl under there at least a dozen or 15 times. (Or more.)

I don't think I'd ever pay to have a motor mount replaced--but I have an air activated jack & and a cordless impact driver. Those box end wrenches with the ratcheting action help a lot, too.

I had a m/m insert pressed into my old aluminum mount--the insert wasn't expensive, and the shop is the most trusted one in town. Still, I took him a picture of the orientation so he could get it right. I think I have about $55 into the whole thing.

DEFINITALY get some ratcheting box end wrenches! Extra long. I used the ones with the angling head, even better. Still takes some creative maneuvering but gets it done. Forget torque, basically impossible to get a torque wrench in there...

Nice work getting after that car. You sound like my dad, mid 70's and still wrenching away!

[Brian in Tucson]

Originally Posted by Geof3

DEFINITALY get some ratcheting box end wrenches! Extra long. I used the ones with the angling head, even better. Still takes some creative maneuvering but gets it done. Forget torque, basically impossible to get a torque wrench in there...

Nice work getting after that car. You sound like my dad, mid 70's and still wrenching away!

Retirement can be fatal! Having a Porsche project car keeps the mind and body active and engaged.Impact tools really save time and effort. I have an air impact that will remove the axle nuts and a Hitachi cordless electric impact that's mighty handy to remove and install the engine mount body bolts. I have an ample supply of Hitachi 18v flashlights too. Way safer than 120v work lights.

I wouldn't even try to work on my Boxster without a set of ramps, 4 jackstands, and my air operated 12 bottle jack. You've gotta get the car quite high to comfortably work under their

Probably everyone with an older Boxster should check/have checked their motor mount. Mine only had 75,000 miles on it and it was shredded! A good time to do the water pump and the serpentine belt, too.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson

Probably everyone with an older Boxster should check/have checked their motor mount. Mine only had 75,000 miles on it and it was shredded! A good time to do the water pump and the serpentine belt, too.

My car (which arrived yesterday, and I've only driven about 15 miles so far) has what I suspect is likely a failed motor mount... check my symptoms with me, please?

130k+ miles, and an occasional "clunk" and a jerking motion when "unloading" the transaxle suddenly. (Like, 1st gear, accelerating quickly, someone pulls out in front so clutch in and braking just as quickly).

Does that sound like my motor mount to y'all?


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[Starter986]

Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson

Retirement can be fatal! Having a Porsche project car keeps the mind and body active and engaged.Impact tools really save time and effort. I have an air impact that will remove the axle nuts and a Hitachi cordless electric impact that's mighty handy to remove and install the engine mount body bolts. I have an ample supply of Hitachi 18v flashlights too. Way safer than 120v work lights.

I wouldn't even try to work on my Boxster without a set of ramps, 4 jackstands, and my air operated 12 bottle jack. You've gotta get the car quite high to comfortably work under their

Probably everyone with an older Boxster should check/have checked their motor mount. Mine only had 75,000 miles on it and it was shredded! A good time to do the water pump and the serpentine belt, too.

What jackstands are you using? What is the height with which you find it is most efficient working under the car? What are your backups while you're under there?

Thank you.

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by Gilles

I do lay on my back on concrete (w/card box) underneath my car quite often, and actually I enjoy it very much..

Yes I like her on top of me

Motor mount job is getting up higher on my to-do list, 3,000 rpm vibration is getting more bothersome.

Would it be easier to install UDP altogether? Already done water pump and thermostat in the last 12K miles.

[itsnotanova]

It also depends on if you're going with the whole replacement engine mount ($170) or just the center mount you press into your old aluminum bracket($36.25). I've always gone the cheap route and did it myself with the press in replacement mount. If I were paying a shop to do it at $60-200 an hour, then I would possibly go with the whole replacement engine mount.

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

It also depends on if you're going with the whole replacement engine mount ($170) or just the center mount you press into your old aluminum bracket($36.25). I've always gone the cheap route and did it myself with the press in replacement mount. If I were paying a shop to do it at $60-200 an hour, then I would possibly go with the whole replacement engine mount.

One slight bonus of doing the whole mount is the 997 mount is slightly different. My concern when I did mine was no pressing the bushing in perfectly and preloading the mount a bit. I don’t have the proper tools to press something that big. I thought about having a shop press it, but by the time I paid for that, etc I just decided to go for the whole thing. Then I sold the old mount...

[itsnotanova]

Originally Posted by Geof3

I don’t have the proper tools to press something that big. I thought about having a shop press it, but by the time I paid for that, etc I just decided to go for the whole thing. Then I sold the old mount...

Proper tools?!? What's that? Heck I just used a bench vice for my wife's boxster and my boxster. My friend and I used some blocks of wood, a floor jack and the weight from his travel trailer to push his in.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

Proper tools?!? What's that? Heck I just used a bench vice for my wife's boxster and my boxster. My friend and I used some blocks of wood, a floor jack and the weight from his travel trailer to push his in.

About a year ago, I was doing two engine mounts. I tried the first one with a block of wood and BFH. It went just a little crooked and got ugly fast. Next I took them both to a local shop on a slow day and he did them both for $25. Next time, I'm going straight to the shop.

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by Boxstard

Yes I like her on top of me

Motor mount job is getting up higher on my to-do list, 3,000 rpm vibration is getting more bothersome.

Would it be easier to install UDP altogether? Already done water pump and thermostat in the last 12K miles.

The UDP has nothing to do with the motor mount or vibration. I have a UDP, but the only reason I installed it is to keep my power steering pump from ejecting fluid at the track. It is pretty straight forward to install, but requires some minor surgery to the engine and requires some very significant torque. The motor mount, and possibly tranny mounts, are your vibration issue. It is probable your mount is floating around in free space in the bracket, mine was... and it is not uncommon.

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by Geof3

The UDP has nothing to do with the motor mount or vibration. I have a UDP, but the only reason I installed it is to keep my power steering pump from ejecting fluid at the track. It is pretty straight forward to install, but requires some minor surgery to the engine and requires some very significant torque. The motor mount, and possibly tranny mounts, are your vibration issue. It is probable your mount is floating around in free space in the bracket, mine was... and it is not uncommon.

I was not saying that the pulley is the source of vibration.... but was just wondering if it may be easier to install UDP while I’m there replacing the mount with more open space below, etc.

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by Boxstard

I was not saying that the pulley is the source of vibration.... but was just wondering if it may be easier to install UDP while I’m there replacing the mount with more open space below, etc.

Not really, having the mount out doesn’t make any substantial difference regarding access to the pulley, short of having the rear panel removed already. But, if you are there...

A couple of tips if you go in to do it. The water hoses make the removal seem impossible to get the mount out. If you remove their mount, you can just wedge the mount between them. Be careful, it is possible to tear them. Also pay attention to the angle you need to get it out, and the mounts orientation to the car, it’s helpful when you put it back in. Wayne’s guide is very helpful too. Patience and tenacity are required to get at the bolts and get that sucker out.