Shop Time to Replace Engine Mount
 

How much shop time (hours) is reasonably involved in replacing the engine mount?

Thanks!

Should be under 2 hours.
I swapped mine out in the garage at home on jackstands in less than that.

With a lift, 2-2.5 hours max, less if they know what they are doing. It's not a difficult job.

Thanks....I love to DIY, but just don't have the bandwidth these days....

Yeah, it's not the most fun job to do on the jack stands. But definitely doable. Check around in your town and see if there are any DIY garages. We have one here that is fully equipped. Runs about 20.00 per hour for full access, lift etc. I just bring my specialty tools, if any, for the job. Having said all that, I did my mount in the garage because I needed to get it done for a track day and the DIY shop was booked. I am 100% with you on the dying desire to lie on my back on concrete, under a car...

I do lay on my back on concrete (w/card box) underneath my car quite often, and actually I enjoy it very much.. :p

Ha, yeah. I'm 52 and though I am in good shape, I am less enthused by the proposition! I still do it, just would rather not! :cheers:

Yes I like her on top of me;)

Motor mount job is getting up higher on my to-do list, 3,000 rpm vibration is getting more bothersome.

Would it be easier to install UDP altogether? Already done water pump and thermostat in the last 12K miles.

It also depends on if you're going with the whole replacement engine mount ($170) or just the center mount you press into your old aluminum bracket($36.25). I've always gone the cheap route and did it myself with the press in replacement mount. If I were paying a shop to do it at $60-200 an hour, then I would possibly go with the whole replacement engine mount.

I just bought the entire engine mount. I found that I had a credit at ECS Tuning for $162 (they put my credit on account instead of back on the card I used to buy a defective product) for a return I did in December of 2016. Took them over a year to send me an email to let me know it was there. I feel like I got the motor mount for free!;)

If you do business with ECS, and you return something, make sure you check where the credit goes. Their policy is not to credit your card back after one year, which is conveniently when I got the email from them letting me know about the credit. Fortunately a motor mount replacement is on the agenda for the next service!

The UDP has nothing to do with the motor mount or vibration. I have a UDP, but the only reason I installed it is to keep my power steering pump from ejecting fluid at the track. It is pretty straight forward to install, but requires some minor surgery to the engine and requires some very significant torque. The motor mount, and possibly tranny mounts, are your vibration issue. It is probable your mount is floating around in free space in the bracket, mine was... and it is not uncommon.

One slight bonus of doing the whole mount is the 997 mount is slightly different. My concern when I did mine was no pressing the bushing in perfectly and preloading the mount a bit. I don’t have the proper tools to press something that big. I thought about having a shop press it, but by the time I paid for that, etc I just decided to go for the whole thing. Then I sold the old mount...:)

Proper tools?!? What's that? Heck I just used a bench vice for my wife's boxster and my boxster. My friend and I used some blocks of wood, a floor jack and the weight from his travel trailer to push his in.

About a year ago, I was doing two engine mounts. I tried the first one with a block of wood and BFH. It went just a little crooked and got ugly fast. Next I took them both to a local shop on a slow day and he did them both for $25. Next time, I'm going straight to the shop.

4lb sledge and a big socket got it done for me

I was not saying that the pulley is the source of vibration.... but was just wondering if it may be easier to install UDP while I’m there replacing the mount with more open space below, etc.

As far as shop time for installation, I just left it under may car with some tools and the next morning it was installed. In hindsight, I probably should have checked the torques.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518925390.jpg

He will not do CAT delete job, though....

Not really, having the mount out doesn’t make any substantial difference regarding access to the pulley, short of having the rear panel removed already. But, if you are there... ;)

A couple of tips if you go in to do it. The water hoses make the removal seem impossible to get the mount out. If you remove their mount, you can just wedge the mount between them. Be careful, it is possible to tear them. Also pay attention to the angle you need to get it out, and the mounts orientation to the car, it’s helpful when you put it back in. Wayne’s guide is very helpful too. Patience and tenacity are required to get at the bolts and get that sucker out.

Shucks, you're a youngster! I'm 66, retired, and I'm in the final stages of installing an engine in my 01 Box-base. Got arthritis in my shoulders and neck, even. On an average day working on it, I'd bet I crawl under there at least a dozen or 15 times. (Or more.)

I don't think I'd ever pay to have a motor mount replaced--but I have an air activated jack & and a cordless impact driver. Those box end wrenches with the ratcheting action help a lot, too.

I had a m/m insert pressed into my old aluminum mount--the insert wasn't expensive, and the shop is the most trusted one in town. Still, I took him a picture of the orientation so he could get it right. I think I have about $55 into the whole thing.:)