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Old 09-07-2006, 11:41 AM   #1
bmussatti
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Is there a boost gage inside the cockpit?
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:29 PM   #2
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Yes, scroll down and see pic.
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:44 PM   #3
bmussatti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioboxster
Yes, scroll down and see pic.
Sorry, I missed that. Very cool! I think I would be looking at it all the time!

Ohio, I think you said that you plan to run 4 pounds boost....but, the gage looks like it goes from 0-30. Wouldn't you want a gage that was, say from 0-10 so it would be more accurate and easier to read? Maybe I am missing something. Thanks.

Great work & right-up.
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Old 09-07-2006, 05:04 PM   #4
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Well the gauge now appears to be accurate but a bigger display that went to 10lbs would be nice. The left side of the gauge is vacuum the right is boost 0-20 lbs.

Thats the part I dont think people understand. The car operates normaly in a vacuum state until you get into the pedal. So the blower doesnt ruin the car the driver does. I have read so many threads about SC blowing up motors. If my car blows up its my fault, period. I drive my cars pretty easy.
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Old 09-08-2006, 12:20 AM   #5
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@ OhioBoxster, if I were old enough to toast a beer to you,I would. Congrats on one heck of a D.I.Y.!
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Old 09-08-2006, 08:18 AM   #6
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Very nice! Looking forward to the dyno charts.

One suggestion: from the pictures it looks like the sc is mounted very close to the headers and exhaust piping. I would be worried about the heat coking up the oil in the sc unit, and also the heat this adds to your intake air. Maybe you can fabricate a heatshield?

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Old 09-08-2006, 01:24 PM   #7
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Not a bad idea, Gary... If you use a metal plate of some sort and it gets too close to either the s/c or the headers, you're gonna get a nasty rattle.. You could always use some form of glass-wrap around part of the headers, and then some nice insulation? Not sure if this would disrupt the car or not, because then the headers are going to be sustaining more heat, sooner... This has worked well for me in the past on cat-removals on n/a motors, however the wraps would normally go into place where the cat was deleted, rather than on one or two of the header pipes.

edit: this has worked well on cat removals for me because removing the cats can lead to a loss of low-end torque (and obiously a gain in mid-range torque). So, in order to have the best of both worlds, wrapping the bypass pipe where the cat was removed will allow that section to still generate a small, helpful dosage of backpressure (initially, and obviously when the car is warmed up) that can assist you in getting off the line.


"Tawk amongst yuhselves"

Last edited by Racer-x; 09-08-2006 at 01:28 PM.
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