Do you even comprehend what you read? Or do you even read beyond the title? I have never said not to use thread locker. :cool: You just seem to think it is forever and can't be touched.

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Sorry you're right. Just one of those days where I'm a little hot from having to replace some fascia due to piss poor work. Someone decided it was ok to miss the edge of the roof by 4" with interlocking tile and cover it up with the cap. Genius. :barf:

the axle flange bolts are a special case - the cv grease gets into the passage that the bolts have to pass through; the bolts pick the grease up and don’t torque properly. not sure that thread locker will help you in that situation, but marking them might help you keep an eye on things (not sure how quickly them come undone when they descide to come undone, however)?

ps, those coil pack bolts are easy to cross thread; ug, ask me how i know ...

If you want something done right...
I'm getting tired of fixing things on a house that is less than 6 months old, so I can relate. :cheers:

Well hopefully at least what you're working with is still "square"

Good post. I think a big part of the issue is improper prep. Wether it be grease, sand or maybe even thread locker getting between the flange and the CV cap causing a loose fit once a few miles have happened and the FO wears down. The other possibility that is easy to do is tightening that first bolt a little too much and placing the flange in a bind. This falls under the not cross bolting and improper sequential tightening.

If lug bolts get loose and a wheel comes off, it can kill us but that does not mean we all should use locktite on the bolts... the hub nut does not require it either. We just need to do proper preparation and execution meant by design.

I'm not convinced that the loosened axle issue is all due to non-use of locktite, that all... there are other root causes, and I would not call it a mistake to use it either, to me it is more like a belt and a suspender.

When the factory does not use locktite, their torque spec is based on dry components without it, obviously, so use of locktite acting as lube before it cures could cause more compressive force when torqued to the same spec., probably not a bad thing but not exactly what designed for.

You might want to consider doing a full "nut and bolt" check on the entire car where just about every nut/bolt is checked for proper torque. I have my local race shop do it once a year and it costs 2-3 hours of labor. Its cheap insurance.