Clutch pedal operation problem, help!

[AUDIOGUY]

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with their clutch pedal not wanting to come up from the floor intermittenly? This happened 2 times in the last week... I am getting worried. The clutch still works fine when pedal depressed. When I let up it stayed down after releasing... car moving and operating fine. I then reached down and pulled the pedal up and it sprang back to normal position and operation. What could this be? Does the pedal have direct linkage or is it hydrolic.. ie. cable or what?
I can remember a VW I had years back the clutch cable went and the pedal stuck to the floor. This is just like the pedal doesnt want to return to the up position. It has only happened when I was starting either in 1st or reverse. This hasnt happened on a gear change... quick in and out of the clutch.

What should I do?
Thanks in advance!

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by AUDIOGUY

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with their clutch pedal not wanting to come up from the floor intermittenly? This happened 2 times in the last week... I am getting worried. The clutch still works fine when pedal depressed. When I let up it stayed down after releasing... car moving and operating fine. I then reached down and pulled the pedal up and it sprang back to normal position and operation. What could this be? Does the pedal have direct linkage or is it hydrolic.. ie. cable or what?
I can remember a VW I had years back the clutch cable went and the pedal stuck to the floor. This is just like the pedal doesnt want to return to the up position. It has only happened when I was starting either in 1st or reverse. This hasnt happened on a gear change... quick in and out of the clutch.

What should I do?
Thanks in advance!

Hi,

It sounds like a bad Clutch Master Cylinder to me, although it could also be the busings and linkage in the pedal, might need greasing. When was the last time you bled your Brakes/Clutch? This should be done every two years as the Brake Fuid absorbs moisture which can impede the Clutch operation as well as corrode the Master and Slave cylinders causing their seals to fail. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[AUDIOGUY]

MN,

I have owned the car for a year and it has 29k miles on it. I havent blead the brakes. Where is the Brake and Clutch master cylinder on the Boxster? Of course I will try to lube the pedal mechanism first. How can I tell if the Clutch master cylinder is failing.. any type of fluid or visual inspection?

Thanks!

[Steve Fine]

I just bought a 2001 Boxster S. Last weekend I put 600 miles on it, mainly just having fun. Wow, I love this car!

One issue. I turned right from a full stop on wet (painted) pavement. The back end tried to swing out on me. Bad Tires? Bad Driver (It's been a while since I drove a rear wheel drive car)? Is the Boxster a bad rain car because of its light weight (is 2,800lbs. plus light?) ?

[986Jim]

You bleed it through the slave cylinder which will be mounted on the tranny that acctually presses the lever forward or whatever it does. There should be a small bleed screw like your calipers on it. Make sure you know how to bleed a clutch when you do it. It's 95% like doing brakes, but you don't press the clutch all the way to the floor. When your ready to bleed it hold the clutch about 3/4 of the way to the floor, have your buddy open the bleed screw, then press it to the floor then have him close it.

The brakes are designed to never bottom out so you don't need to do this, but with the clutch it is designed to bottom out, so if you hold it right to the boards then open the bleed screw it will bleed, but not as fast, so use my method will help you out.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by 986Jim

You bleed it through the slave cylinder which will be mounted on the tranny that acctually presses the lever forward or whatever it does. There should be a small bleed screw like your calipers on it. Make sure you know how to bleed a clutch when you do it. It's 95% like doing brakes, but you don't press the clutch all the way to the floor. When your ready to bleed it hold the clutch about 3/4 of the way to the floor, have your buddy open the bleed screw, then press it to the floor then have him close it.

The brakes are designed to never bottom out so you don't need to do this, but with the clutch it is designed to bottom out, so if you hold it right to the boards then open the bleed screw it will bleed, but not as fast, so use my method will help you out.

Hi,

Sorry, the Porsche Clutch is different. You need to use a pressure bleeder and you do need to have the clutch pedal to the floor. A quote from the Dealer Service manual:

"Important notes:

The clutch hydraulics must always be filled or bled using a pressure filling and bleeding device. Furthermore, the bleeder valve must be opened sufficiently and the gauge pressure must be approx. 1.5 bar.

Before the system is filled or bled, the clutch pedal must be in the "pedal fully depressed" position. Important: As there is no system pressure, servo kinematic effects will cause the clutch pedal to move forward abruptly. In order to avoid damage, the pedal must be guided manually..."


Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99