Engine Oil for 2001 986

[Slate 01]

I have been using Mobil 1 10/40 M Formula for my base 986, I live in the Central Valley of California, cold weather isn't a problem here. And no, I have not replaced the IMS and have had no signs of trouble on a car with 42K Miles.

Can I use 0/40 M Formula and not cause myself any additional risk?

Thanks

[Ciao]

The only additional risk is not changing the oil regularly.

[Slate 01]

Originally Posted by Ciao

The only additional risk is not changing the oil regularly.

Not a problem, gets new blood every 3000 to 4000 miles. I like to keep a short leash on checking the filter for any metal shavings (none so far, thank God)

[Mig]

Hi.

What's the reason for not sticking with the 10W40? Is it just getting harder to find?

[911monty]

I also live in California and since it never gets below ~20 deg 0W-40 is not required. I ran M1 0W-40 for one change and did not like the startup clatter. 5W-40 or 10W-40 from now on.

[lkchris]

With Mobil 1 last time I checked the Porsche oil is 0W-40 European Formula. "Formula M" in contrast describes oil meant for Mercedes diesels.

In any event, the oil should include "Meets Porsche A40" printed on the container.

In addition, there is zero advantage to 10W-40 versus 0W-40 in any conditions.

[JFP in PA]

What you should really be thinking about is anoil's flim strength and a given product's ability to stand up to high temperature/high shear conditions without falling out of grade. Then the differences between a 0W and 10W-anything become much more obvious, regardless of the minimum ambient temperatures.

[Slate 01]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

What you should really be thinking about is anoil's flim strength and a given product's ability to stand up to high temperature/high shear conditions without falling out of grade. Then the differences between a 0W and 10W-anything become much more obvious, regardless of the minimum ambient temperatures.

So for an idiot like me, am I good with the 0/40W Mobil 1 Porsche spec'd earl?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

So for an idiot like me, am I good with the 0/40W Mobil 1 Porsche spec'd earl?

Depends upon what you want. We do not use any 0W-40 M1, and have not for many years now. The are much better oils available now that offer far superior engine protction. We also do not use any 0W-anything oils due to low film strength issues inherent to zero weight oils, regardless of the manufacturer, and stopped using Mobil 1 products completely not long after Exxon acquired them and started reformulating the line.

[Slate 01]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Depends upon what you want. We do not use any 0W-40 M1, and have not for many years now. The are much better oils available now that offer far superior engine protction. We also do not use any 0W-anything oils due to low film strength issues inherent to zero weight oils, regardless of the manufacturer, and stopped using Mobil 1 products completely not long after Exxon acquired them and started reformulating the line.

Good to know, thanks.

Are there any particular brands you do suggest and weight? Like I said I have a 2001 Base with 43K miles and not replaced the IMS. I live in California and we have very mild winters (that is even a stretch, rarely hits freezing, and I actually rarely drive it in the winter, only on trips to the coast). Appreciate any help on this matter.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

Good to know, thanks.

Are there any particular brands you do suggest and weight? Like I said I have a 2001 Base with 43K miles and not replaced the IMS. I live in California and we have very mild winters (that is even a stretch, rarely hits freezing, and I actually rarely drive it in the winter, only on trips to the coast). Appreciate any help on this matter.

I would not go any lighter than a 5W-40, prefering a 10W-40 in warm climates due to improved film strenghts. I would also focus on ZDDP content.

There are several brands worth looking at, in cluding Joe Gibbs, Motul, Castrol, and even some of the Shell Rotella's.

[mikefocke]

What you have blundered into is an area where there are strong opinions and even a few based on facts. There are forums devoted to the subject (like this one) and, even after hundreds of postings, still differing opinions.

There are folks whose experience inside the M96 engine exceeds 1,000 that don't use any Mobile product. There are tens of thousands of P-car owners who do. An oil developed with Porsche is mind is Joe Gibbs DT40. May be tough to get though depending on where you live.

[Flavor 987S]

You are an excellent candidate for Porsche A40 approved Mobil 5W50.

[JayG]

Motul 8100 excess 5w-40 is another great oil to use

On amazon ~ $150 for 4 x 5 liter bottles delivered

[Slate 01]

How does Royal Purple rate?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

How does Royal Purple rate?

Not a fan.....

[Flavor 987S]

Unless you do a 200-400 mile engine flush with Joe Gibbs BR30, you won't see any advantages of the DT40 till after your 2nd or 3rd oil change. DT40 just fights way too much with other oil's additive package. Especially Mobil's. The developer of this oil (Luke Speed of Joe Gibbs, and Jake Raby of Flat Six Innovations) will also tell you the same.

The best UOA's I've seen on my water cooled Porsches have come from Mobil 5W50. Second best was Red Line 5W40. I saw no better UOA's from DT40 than I did from Mobil 0W40. This is gleaned from over 100,000 miles and about 15 oil changes.

[Gelbster]

For the IMS geeks among you who follow ED the ex-Timken guy - he is in favor of an xW-50 oil because of load/shear/heat on the IMSB. It may be that the JGDT40 additive package offers the same benefits at a lower (40) number?
But then there is the cylinder bore scoring+cold climate issue to consider.http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/904760-scored-cylinder-failure-for-your-996-y-or-n-tell-us-yr-996-mk1-or-mk2.html
So the best answer may be climate-specific with the hot climate owners having the easiest choices -JGDT40 or 10w-50 or 5W-50 if you take the risk of abandoning the M96-optimized additive package in JGDT40.Foaming is another issue.... it gets complicated

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

... it gets complicated

–> just another oil thread on the internet.

Has somebody proven data on oil recommendations over 50.000 / 100.000 / 200.000 miles including
- climate conditions
- driving profile (street, daily driver, garage queen, short distance, racing…)
- additives
- viscosity
- HTHS
- oil change interval incl. oil filter
- oil filter quality
- fail rate
- cause for failure

I personally don't know somebody with that data.

And…

maybe short distances means a distance of 10 miles in the US, but 1 mile or less in Germany…

maybe racing means to drive more than 55 mp/h and a racing on a parking lot course in the US, but full speed over 1 hour on a german Autobahn or 10 laps on the Nürburgring.

maybe there are a lot of causes why these engines can fail. IMS is only one. Also it depends what year the engine is, because there are some technical differences over the years.

maybe ZDDP will help your engine. But shurely any amount of ZDDP will also harm your catalytic converters. Maybe this isn't that bad in the US/Canada because you have 4 catalytic converters (800 cells per cylinder bank) but maybe it's different in Germany/ROW, where you have 2 catalytic converters (400 cells per cylinder bank) to reach emission controls.

maybe some people have an personal interest in selling some products.

So a lot of maybe –****and i'm shure there is a lot more maybe…

Personally i go with:
- yearly oil and filter change (i drive less than 2.000 miles p.a.)
- full synthetic oil
- maximum HTHS
- viscosity that fits climate and driving profile
- no ZDDP or additional additives
- warming up the engine under low load for min. 10-15 miles
- using a standard thermostat
- keeping radiators clean and having an eye on water pump, thermostat…

Personal observation: since using a 5W oil there is only a minimal amount of engine oil between engine and transmission.

And: if the engine fails it fails.

Regards, Markus

[Slate 01]

Okay, now y'all are just screwing with me, LOL!

I'm going with the Gibbs 5/40 (since it is on the way from Amazon).

My car has 43K miles and has shown no signs of metal shavings in it's earl filters. I change earl every 3K and inspect filter meticulously. So far so good, fingers crossed. I don't run around town in the vehicle and only take it out for trips to Yosemite, Lake Tahoe and the coast with wifey. So short little bursts around town never occur, so the low miles on a 2001 are not an accurate indication of how the miles have been absorbed on this vehicle (the garage queen theory of IMS worries).