The best way to do it is the same method the LN IMS Solution uses, a freeze plug inserted into the shaft with some Loctite sealant on it. Just make sure it is far enough into the shaft to not interfere with the IMS, but not so far it creates a cavity.

JFP,
Great suggestion. I wonder why Pedro has not incorporated it? Low cost and simple but requires some skill to execute ?

Wow! What a compliment! Pedro used my findings (and didn't give me credit)! The most sincere form of flattery is imitation, or in this case, taking credit where credit is not due. I'm no where near as long winded as Pedro, but take a (short) peek at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzHwWUgU37k . If someone steals from me, I tend not to trust them..., or do business with them, it's a character thing. I would highly recommend that to anyone. I'd also recommend researching spray (maybe not so good) versus mist (a lot better) oiling on major ball bearing manufacturing sites as I did. Also be very cautious about where the oil is stolen from to oil the bearing, it should be filtered, and not bias the overall engine oil pressure side to side. And as far as the thermodynamics of this rationale goes, I'd challenge anyone, no matter what their reputation or experience to prove the perfect gas laws (or as near as the atmosphere gets) are wrong. In other words, for the less technically inclined, Pedro is completely correct, though not original. He needs to either research more, or cite his sources. If you look at my other videos you can see how I solved this problem while I rebuilt my own engine. Never take my ideas as your own without citing me or I will lay it all out on the table for everyone to see.

James.
Did you communicate directly with Pedro? I notice you posted your vid 2 years before Pedro.
I ask because he may have been unaware of your 'prior art'. If you have ever spoken with Pedro he seems the most unlikely plagiarist.
At least he proposes a Solution. Opps, that should be Solution TM?

James I would argue that Pedro may not be completely correct. While the thermal dynamics of heating and cooling are certainly correct I suspect there is a problem with the gas law. During the cooling cycle there are 2 phases in contact with the bearing, a gas phase and an oil phase. Since fluid flow is always to the path of least resistance then the gas phase must preferentially move through the bearing during heating and cooling cycles before the viscous oil. I suspect this eventually pushes out the grease and causes the seals to fail, then the oil simply equalizes through the bearing by gravity. A sealed bearing could very well be fine if there was a vent hole in the IMS shaft. Just my thoughts.

I am absolutely claiming it is my idea, circa 2013.

The seals are never "perfect", they always leak. The Pelican refit kit sent me a non contact bearing that clearly would have allowed gravity to pull oil into the the IMS easily and certainly a worn seal could do the same, so this is a good point. A driving factor even with a good seal on a sealed bearing would be the delta p after running. I vented my IMS shaft on rebuild for precisely the points you make above.

It is fun to play with the "just vent it' idea. When replacing and IMSB w/o engine dismantling it is difficult to drill a small hole in a safe area of the IMS?
You could puncture the one remaining inner seal?
The there is the Vertex 'technique' at the other end of the IMS tube that involves a hammer and punch .Perhaps not.

It's quite easy (once the cases are split apart!). I've a few YouTubes on how to do it. The trick is to make sure there is never a differential pressure across the IMS bearing that serves to drive out the grease (gasp!!) in the bearing. I'll be pulling out my IMSB in the not too distant future to inspect the grease in it after doing the procedure (about 20K miles). Yeah, this is a hobby.

"once the cases are split apart"
Funny -that is cheating :-).
The trick as I said is to suggest a how-to w/o dismantling the engine. How can it be done as part of a normal IMSB replacement?

Fwiw...
 

...I just bought a 2004 Boxster S and immediately shipped her to Jake Raby and Flat 6 Innovatons and had them install the "IMS Solution", which is a plain bearing fed by an oil line.

The service experience was spectacular.

Highly recommended.

Good luck.

:cheers:

Probably the only way this could be done would be to cut a channel outside the bearing race in the bearing flange.

It's all about tools and IMS shafts. I'm not going to do this so I'll fess up. A fairly simple, but expensive tool could be made to drill a couple of holes from the inside of the IMS to the outside of the IMS through the sprocket splitting the twin chain sprockets as I did with mine (see YouTube). Then a (preferably high temp Viton) sealed 8 dollar greased bearing can be installed which will last for well, the life of the car. Likely. The tool is the key, the rest is just a simple bearing replacement. As an aside, a sealed bearing (as opposed to an open bearing) keeps particulate contamination out of the races which is nearly instant death to the bearing. Keeping the grease in the bearing keeps it lubricated and alive. Porsche's error? They did not account for the sealed intermediate shaft delta pressure pulling or pushing oil across the bearing. Solution? Vent the shaft.

From my perspective this is an awesome engineering solution providing the contact forces in the bearing work out. I asked Jake long ago and he assured there is plenty of margin, so this appears to be the best solution going. Perhaps "overkill", but if ever you wanted overkill, this is the place. And another key here is where the oil comes from...

I thought the same thing as I listened to it... Except everyone in the shop watching it with me was laughing so hard that I couldn't think straight.

Who knew that 1/3+ 1/3 = a whole?? Must be some new fangled fraction stuff..

22 seconds into the video is why
 

I get so frustrated when these topics come up. So few want to admit that there are other options and perhaps other equally as viable solutions to the IMS debacle.

I think there are different philosophies and ideas out there.

Honestly i'm not a fan of oil feeded open roller bearing or plain bearing.

If i had to rebuildt my engine i allways would go with a vented tube (by holes) and a high quality sealed roller bearing.

To drill holes from the inside of the tube will be possible but will need a special driller and a very precision drilling to not harm anything outside the tube or the tube. Also there is a danger that drilled parts could get into the engine from the outer side of the tube while drilling. So no option for me.

Alternatively i think it's a good idea to seal the tube volume by a king of machined plug and use a sealed roller bearing. The question is what material to use. A soft aluminium alloy could be a good idea, because of a high thermal coefficient. If pressed in this could be a good air sealer directy behind the roller bearing.

Regards
Markus

I'm certainly no expert and I wouldn't dare side with any particular ims bearing provider since I understand f*** all in bearings. But from my ignorance I think that some more oil being fed to the ceramic bearings wouldnt hurt.
how about using LN's ceramic bearings with the oil feeder from the other end of the shaft from EPS (that requires a punch) to help the bearings with some oil.
As I said, I have no clue how bearings work, I'm just looking for the best way to go with upgrading my bearing without taking the engine out of my car, and I'm after an unbiased opinion.
in the meantime I found another video from pedro, here's the link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCE-KnTDSvo where he compares a brand new ceramic bearing with one that has 45,000 miles on it and there is a big difference in play in the bearings. Any thoughts on that? why has that happened to a dual row bearing which should last at least 75,000 miles? in the other video he claims that his steel bearing in his boxster have already lasted 125,000 miles with the DOF, so obviously he's claiming that that's much better than LN's recommended bearing life.
Again, I know nothing in this field, but I'm just trying to buy whats best out there, since these bearings don't come cheap, and I don't want to be regretting my decision in a couple of years, thanks

@boxster:

I think that's a lot of bla bla from Pedro.

There are a lot of different kinds of bearings made for special applications. Also there are different quality grades available. He also didn't name manufacturer or type, nor the specs. So you can't say that ceramic is bad and metal is good. That's complete bulls…t.

The bearing has to the right one for the application. I did some research on that a while ago. And i'm pretty convinced that there are ceramic roller bearings that won't fail within the given specs. But these are not the china cheap ones. ;)

A sealed bearing is always the better solution. Problem is the under- / overpressure in the tube. Oil feed has in my opinion some disadvantages. Oil has to be clean and you can't prevent to swap uncleaned oil from the oil pan to the bearing. An oil line can break. Also there will be oil in the tube.

So in my opinion the best is to solve the under- / overpressure problem first.

That's not against Jake's or Pedros or any other solutions. They work, but you'll have to do a lot of oil changes and the solution won't work for a life time. So you'll have a lot of follow up costs that i don't like.

Regards
Markus

So, given that I am not planning on removing the engine from the car, LN's bearings without additional oil feeds is the best solution for my 99 spec car?
Also, as i stated before,I dont use the car much, and since statistically those are the type of cars that suffer the most,will LN's bearings have the same problems with cars that dont get used much? They say they life their bearings at 75000 miles or 6 years, since I don't use the car much, if after 6 years the bearings will have 20000 miles on them, will they still have to be changed?

Amusing
 

I'm glad I was able to amuse you and your group.
Just returning the favor!
Just trying to make people happy,
Pedro

Hi,

first of all you'll need to make shure that the installation is 100% correct. If you don't have the tools, knowledge or know how i would say change your motor oil yearly with a high qualitiy oil, change and examine the filter and leave the bearing alone.

Additionally - if you have a double row bearing engine. The bearings of these engines don't fail that much as single row bearings. And there are a lot of others causes why theses engines can fail. So don't go crazy on thinking abount the bearing - that's my personal opinion.

Well, 6 years or 75k miles means 6 years or 75k miles. Perhaps Jake can answer this question. Also Jake should give you a recommendation which of his systems match best for your car.

Regards
Markus

The only one thats Patented. The only one that removes at least 11 wear parts from the system. The IMS Solution.

Its funny how people seem to have forgotten the days of being told the IMS Bearing was impossible to replace. Its funny how those that have come along later have ridden our coat tails, and used the tools that I invented, and the procedure that I developed to install their copy cat systems.

I remember making the first post about removing an IMS Bearing, and at that time I was told that I was lying, that the bearing was impossible to extract, or replace. Today, the tide has turned, and what was once black art has become a market that want to get their part of. Too bad they'll always be one step, and several years behind.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1446655150.jpg

Maybe it's time to think about something that was discussed in the What type oil filter do you use thread. Oil filter filtration is not 100% they have a allowable particulate size that passes through them. Some of these particles are ferrous, this is why the Filtermag was developed. No ROLLER type bearing likes to have debris contamination. So continuous oil spray or splash lubrication has it's downside. I am not affiliated with or in any way compensated by LN or Jake, but the only bearing that has the clearance to allow this debris is the plain type bearing in the LN Solution system. Choose your own medicine. :matchup:

Monty :"No ROLLER type bearing likes .."
Do you mean deep-groove-ball bearing or roller. There is a huuuuge difference in IMSB terms. Don't get us started on that again!
Filtration - suggest you research the difference between the OEM filter and the LN full flow+Napa Gold spin-on filter. By-pass is a more significant risk than filter pore size according to the experts.
LN has you covered:
Oil Change Bundle for MY 1997 - 2008
http://lnengineering.com/oil-change-bundle-configurable.html

I am referring to both roller and ball. By filtration I am referring to the the filter efficiency, not bypass, ( I have LN, NAPA Gold and Filtermag to eliminate bypass) this is not the same thing. The Filtration efficiency of most filters is only to ~10 micron first pass. This means there is always some particles that simply pass through the filter.These are continuously circulating to some degree. These particles are fine in a plain bearing where there is no contact and the bearing rides on a film of oil that is greater than this particle size. That is not true with a roller or ball bearing where the balls have contact with the races, and therefore do not like debris.

And that's Patented, too.

Filtered oil, and "just filtered oil" are two dramatically different things.

Oh, and to the camp that says the IMS Solution can't live without it's oil feed line? I have some medicine for you, too.

Oh, and to the camp that says the IMS Solution can't live without it's oil feed line? I have some medicine for you, too.[/QUOTE]

Ok Now this is something that has to be elaborated on. My understanding that as soon as the oil film is lost such as oil starvation, contact occurs and bearing is destroyed. You have some other magic? Who says we can't all learn something? :cheers:

Just because the oil feed is stopped,it does not mean that oil in the bearing instantly disappears. A residual film will be retained for a while.(define 'while'?).Surface tension.
The bearing is coated ? PC3 or similar?
Pedro's Technofix DOF has an uncoated bearing.

Gelbster This is fun! There is some magic elixirs out there such as teflon etc. that claim they can prevent contact, I'm not sold. Oil film strength and pressure in the bearing is what prevents contact. Now wether it is loss of film strength due to excessive heat or oil starvation due to long high G turns, damage is usually instantaneous as far as human reaction time is concerned.

Yes but the ims solution is going to take a while to be available for the dualrow from what I understand,right?
Can you tell me what the ceramic bearings act like on "garage queens", are they as sensitive as the conventional type when the car isn't used much, or are they more resistant? And how about the question I asked about the life of the bearings,if after 6 years they have 20000 miles, will they still have to be changed?

Ok Now this is something that has to be elaborated on. My understanding that as soon as the oil film is lost such as oil starvation, contact occurs and bearing is destroyed. You have some other magic? Who says we can't all learn something? :cheers:[/QUOTE]

Thats what the other guys want you to think.. Its the ONLY ammo they have against the IMS Solution.

Too bad they are wrong, and an engine can run for 20 miles and see 7,000 RPM over and over again with ZERO oil feed and not fail.

I t can go further than that, but thats what was on the engine when I did the video, then I pulled it apart for evaluation. I have photos of the unit pre, and post the evaluation to show what it did with zero oil feed, and didn't even have a line attached.

I have video documentation of this. You will see it soon, with a story.

No, its available at my facility right now. Distributors have orders in place for more than 500 units already.

The IMS Solution is a permanent retrofit, it does NOT have and mileage or time lifespan.

The IMS Solution uses a DLC coated journal, coupled to the material that the bushing is made from, it takes extensive wear to create an issue with this.

This wasn't something that was developed over night in someone's garage. I had more than a decade of my life invested in the invention, and development before I was able to secure the Patent for the IMS Solution.

Thanks Jake looking forward to the video! This is what makes this forum so great, the willingness to share info and knowledge so we all benefit. Thanks all! :cheers:

So if someone asks what DLC means: Design of DLC coatings for high speed hybrid ball bearings

Regards
Markus

Thats what the other guys want you to think.. Its the ONLY ammo they have against the IMS Solution.

Too bad they are wrong, and an engine can run for 20 miles and see 7,000 RPM over and over again with ZERO oil feed and not fail.

I t can go further than that, but thats what was on the engine when I did the video, then I pulled it apart for evaluation. I have photos of the unit pre, and post the evaluation to show what it did with zero oil feed, and didn't even have a line attached.

I have video documentation of this. You will see it soon, with a story.


No, its available at my facility right now. Distributors have orders in place for more than 500 units already.


The IMS Solution is a permanent retrofit, it does NOT have and mileage or time lifespan.


The IMS Solution uses a DLC coated journal, coupled to the material that the bushing is made from, it takes extensive wear to create an issue with this.

This wasn't something that was developed over night in someone's garage. I had more than a decade of my life invested in the invention, and development before I was able to secure the Patent for the IMS Solution.[/QUOTE]

When I asked about lifespan I meant for the ceramic bearing retrofit kit. Will the bearings still be more prone to failing if the car's not used much? And will it still need changing after 6 years, irrelevant of miles?

Can I ask how much the ims solution will cost for the dual row?

I have no idea what a retail price will be. Thats not my department, I do know what my installed price is, which is the same as the single row version.

Retail price points may differ. You'll have to wait and see, or stand in line at my door :-)

So I cant buy it directly from you?
If not, when will it be available at supliers,and will it be at suppliers in Europe?

It's a character thing ...
 

… and we can clearly see that you lack it, Jamesp.
You claim to have "discovered" how the IMS fails and you show as proof a video you published on YouTube 10/01/13. www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzHwWUgU37k. (As of today, watched by 1,650 people).
Why don't you check the one I published on YouTube as well on 09/04/13?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzUq2DFpeKw. (As of today, watched by 36,639 people).
Mine was online ONE MONTH BEFORE YOURS!
I had never seen your video until this morning, yet you say I stole from you.
I think you have it all backwards, Jamesp.
Happy whatever,
Pedro

Honoring those who invent or provide ideas/inspiration is important because we Forum members benefit. One amateur pioneer in the IMSB saga was "Feelyx". Don't hear much from him now but here is a thread where he begins to develop his theory of grease wash-out. It is interesting because his ideas were developed very publicly on this Forum. Best of all he was very polite and generous in sharing his amateur test data.
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/33893-ims-failure-not-myth.html
And yes, it did evenyually become an IMSB product.
So yes, credit where credit is due and Forums like this are certainly instrumental in problem-solving products.

Nope, we sell nothing here. I don't even have a way to sell an item, if you go to my site and click parts, you hit a dead end. We are developers, builders, and installers, not parts sales people.

The components do go through a distribution network, and will be available worldwide sometime mid 2016.



Its funny how all that happened, isn't it... More than ironic, if you ask me.