Clutch slave update. I am so screwed.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by epapp

You will have to take the flange off to examine the bearing, but without taking the bearing completely out, there should be no reason to have to lock the cams.

I would not do that. Without the engine locked tat TDC, cams locked ,and the tensioners pulled, the shaft will jump to one side due to valve spring pressure, and could jump time in the process, if you could even get the flange cover off. We have had more than one car flat bedded into the shop after doing exactly what you describe. Bad idea.........

If you are going to remove the flange, you need to go the entire route or risk problems.

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

I would not do that. Without the engine locked tat TDC, cams locked ,and the tensioners pulled, the shaft will jump to one side due to valve spring pressure, and could jump time in the process. We have had more than one car flat bedded into the shop after doing exactly what you describe. Bad idea.........

If you are going to remove the flange, you need to go the entire route or risk problems.

My question is, can I just remove the nut at the center of the flange, and then spin and push on the shaft to check for smoothness and play of the IMSB and if removing the nut will allow me to check on the bearing, do I have to lock the cams if I am not disturbing the flange?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by san rensho

My question is, can I just remove the nut at the center of the flange, and then spin and push on the shaft to check for smoothness and play of the IMSB and if removing the nut will allow me to check on the bearing, do I have to lock the cams if I am not disturbing the flange?

Doing it the way you describe, you are really not going to get an idea of how smooth or loose the bearing is as the center bolt will still be under some load with the flange cover in place unless you unload the shaft, so you may not even be able to move it after just removing the nut.

If you are not going to replace the bearing, I would do one of two things: Lock the engine and cams, remove the flange and test the bearing, then remove the rear seal from the bearing so it can lubricate and put the car back together; or just leave it alone as it is.

To find out what kind of condition the bearing is in, you are going to be 95% of the way to replacing it, so you really need to think through what you want to do here. You really don't want to be kicking your self two months from now about not having replaced the bearing when you had the chance.

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Doing it the way you describe, you are really not going to get an idea of how smooth or loose the bearing is as the center bolt will still be under some load with the flange cover in place unless you unload the shaft, so you may not even be able to move it after just removing the nut.

If you are not going to replace the bearing, I would do one of two things: Lock the engine and cams, remove the flange and test the bearing, then remove the rear seal from the bearing so it can lubricate and put the car back together; or just leave it alone as it is.

To find out what kind of condition the bearing is in, you are going to be 95% of the way to replacing it, so you really need to think through what you want to do here. You really don't want to be kicking your self two months from now about not having replaced the bearing when you had the chance.

Can't argue with that logic. I'm cheap, so I don't want to invest at least $800 extra for the LN bearing (assuming I can beg or rent the installation tools for cheap), on a car that has 150,000 k miles on it (with the original clutch).

But on the other hand, I will be spending lots of money replacing clutch parts (clutch plate, PP, RB, pivot, guide tube) that are going to last another 100k miles on a car I bought four years ago for $7500.00. Motor still runs strong, transmission in great shape, I intend to run it until the motor fails, so the new bearing makes sense.