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-   -   Yet another oil thread *caution* science content (http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/56373-yet-another-oil-thread-%2Acaution%2A-science-content.html)

Jamesp 03-20-2015 06:45 PM

Yet another oil thread *caution* science content
 
Here's an article to add to your oil knowledge if you're interested in such things.

Addressing long-standing mysteries behind anti-wear motor oil additive -- ScienceDaily

Gelbster 03-20-2015 07:58 PM

And the high detergent oils defeat the ZDDP and aggravate the foaming problem for the M96
The Truth About Zinc & Motor Oil - Driven Racing Oil

Jamesp 03-21-2015 04:05 AM

Good reading material on ZDDP Gelbster. Reading both of these items back to back is eye opening, and makes me wonder if the Mobil1 I buy today is the same oil as the Mobil1 recommended by Porsche. The oil formulation is definitely critical if you intend to keep you car for the long run and limit wear.

Gelbster 03-21-2015 03:43 PM

The geek site Bobistheoilguy has many discussions of Mobil 1.I am not a tribologist but it seems that Mobil 1 has too much detergent(=foaming) to use in the M96 .
Joe Gibbs DT40 is touted as perfect for the M96 but their tech info does not mention specific formulation details to minimize foaming.
Some oils that are specifically formulated to minimize foaming/aeration ,seem(??) suitable for the M96 and are more widely available at retail stores. These are the turbo diesel oils specifically recommended for Ford TD trucks.Ford had a foaming issue and these oils address that. Here is a link to some of those:
PowerStroke
I am not recommending any particular oil ,just sharing what I stumbled across.
There seems to be some confusion about the cause of foaming - over-filling,use of after-market additives etc. Anything we do to minimize foaming seems a good plan for the lifespan of both the AOS and the engine.

KRAM36 03-21-2015 04:54 PM

I'm stubborn headed and have stuck with Mobil 1 0W-40 in my car. You got me looking at the Joe Gibbs DT40 and it seems that's the only oil Jake Raby puts in his Porsche engines.

I might make a change due to Jake Raby using it.

Gelbster 03-21-2015 08:23 PM

From the study I have done(I am no expert!) there is ample technical basis for concluding that JGDT40 is a much better choice than Mobil 1 for the M96. BITOG suggest the Mobil 1 formulation has changed since it was first introduced-that may be significant?
I can't imagine Jake would recommend anything without strong technical validity. He would be the world's worst snake oil salesman.
I am just interested if there are any equally good(or better) alternatives to the JGDT40.

KRAM36 03-21-2015 09:42 PM

I think I'm going to make the change on my next oil change. Is the Joe Gibbs DT40 only sold in the 1qt bottles? That seems to be the only way I have found it and the best price here?

Driven Racing Oil 02407, Driven Synthetic European Sports Car Oil | Driven Racing Oil

I like that I can get Mobil 1 in the 5qt bottle as it makes taken the used oil to the auto parts store easy.

JFP in PA 03-22-2015 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRAM36 (Post 441278)
I'm stubborn headed and have stuck with Mobil 1 0W-40 in my car. You got me looking at the Joe Gibbs DT40 and it seems that's the only oil Jake Raby puts in his Porsche engines.

I might make a change due to Jake Raby using it.

Don't buy it because Jake uses it, buy it for its superior ZDDP content and better film strength than most of the highly touted synthetics on the market.

KRAM36 03-22-2015 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA (Post 441318)
Don't buy it because Jake uses it, buy it for its superior ZDDP content and better film strength than most of the highly touted synthetics on the market.

All that stuff goes over my head. I understand the weight part, but the rest is gibberish to me. So I have to really on what the Porsche specialist recommend.

That's the one thing that worries me about the Joe Gibbs DT40 5W-40. I changed to Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 and got engine clatter at start up. Went back to Mobil 1 0W-40 and no engine clatter.

I did read Redline 5W-40 will stop engine clatter some people were having, not sure what they were using previously.

BFeller 03-22-2015 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRAM36 (Post 441342)
......I changed to Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 and got engine clatter at start up. Went back to Mobil 1 0W-40 and no engine clatter.......

What I read is the ZDDP additives are best for our engines. They build/create/generate a film/surface barrier/slime (whatever you want to think of it as) that protects the multiple metal parts as they are rubbing against each other. The high detergents levels in a High Mileage oil wash away the "film/surface barrier/slime".

That's my summary - I will now runaway from the grenade that is an oil discussions...... :)

Smallblock454 03-22-2015 11:11 AM

I think you first have to to understand what numbers like 0W-40 are. Than you'll have to understand that these numbers are only a very rough indicator. Cinematic viscosity, pourpoint and other indicators will determine an oil much more. There are also things like detergents, friction reducer…

Next problem is that oil manufacturers never will tell you how their oils are formulated in detail. And each oil manufacturers will say his one is the best. So if you read things on the internet please allways check who has written the artilce and what might have been his intention.

ZDDP (zinc-dialkyl-dithio-phosphat) is also available as an oil additiv for regular motor oils. Also there a a lot of oil manufacturers that offer oil with ZDDP for classic cars.

They put ZDDP out of the oil, because zinc will destroy catalysators within a short time. So if you don't have emission laws in your county/country, there is nothing against the old school ZDDP oils. If not, maybe you should think twice. ;)

And yeah - another oil thread. :D ;)

KRAM36 03-22-2015 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smallblock454 (Post 441356)
I think you first have to to understand what numbers like 0W-40 are. Than you'll have to understand that these numbers are only a very rough indicator. Cinematic viscosity, pourpoint and other indicators will determine an oil much more. There are also things like detergents, friction reducer…

Next problem is that oil manufacturers never will tell you how their oils are formulated in detail. And each oil manufacturers will say his one is the best. So if you read things on the internet please allways check who has written the artilce and what might have been his intention.

ZDDP (zinc-dialkyl-dithio-phosphat) is also available as an oil additiv for regular motor oils. Also there a a lot of oil manufacturers that offer oil with ZDDP for classic cars.

They put ZDDP out of the oil, because zinc will destroy catalysators within a short time. So if you don't have emission laws in your county/country, there is nothing against the old school ZDDP oils. If not, maybe you should think twice. ;)

And yeah - another oil thread. :D ;)

You just threw a curve ball in me changing oils lol.

JFP in PA 03-22-2015 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRAM36 (Post 441367)
You just threw a curve ball in me changing oils lol.

The impact of ZDDP the cats is slow and over time, it does not happen overnight; so the question you need to ask yourself is are you more concerned about having to change your cats, or your engine, and then make your choice about oils.

KRAM36 03-22-2015 01:10 PM

Ummmm, I'd choose the change cats option.

Thanks JFP.

Jake Raby 03-22-2015 03:05 PM

I use Driven products exclusively... That's not a recommendation, I don't give a damn what you use unless you have my engine. Here if someone requests some other oil, I send them to another facility where the person at the controls cares less about what they create. I'll use nothing else.

Having developed these oils alongside Lake Speed Jr. I know what has gone into them, and how we are constantly working on the better formula.

I do the development for my engine program, and Gibbs will make anything we want in return for our assistance.

That said, I have NEVER seen a cat on a German car fail due to zinc and phosphorus content elevations... We have ran zinc as high as 2700 ppm and still no failures.

Zinc seems to only kill Asian car cats.

KRAM36 03-22-2015 05:37 PM

That's cool Jake.

For the average consumer is it only available to purchase in the 1qt bottles?

Jake Raby 03-22-2015 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRAM36 (Post 441405)
That's cool Jake.

For the average consumer is it only available to purchase in the 1qt bottles?

I'm not sure.. We never sell things, except engines.

We get it in drums, but we keep cases (of quarts) to ship away with cars after we build the engines. You can buy the DRIVEN products at LN Engineering, or on Amazon

KRAM36 03-22-2015 06:45 PM

I looked around, seems it only comes in the 1qt bottles. Best price I could find on it is from Jegs.

Driven Racing Oil 02407, Driven Synthetic European Sports Car Oil | Driven Racing Oil

No worries of engine clatter at start up? With Mobil 1 0W-40 I have no engine clatter at start up.

steved0x 03-22-2015 06:46 PM

Just quarts from what I can tell, I have been getting from Amazon but the price on quarts went up so I bought a case from Summit with free shipping, just got it the other day.

Paul 03-22-2015 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRAM36 (Post 441372)
Ummmm, I'd choose the change cats option.

Thanks JFP.

I've heard new front CATs are $4000 each....


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