Suspension arm refresh query

[pothole]

So, I'm hoping to refresh the suspension on the Box soon.

On the front axle plan to change both arms on each side. The smaller arms are pretty cheap, so seem like a no brainer.

On the rear, there's three arms a side, so I'm wondering whether I might get away with not changing all of the. I have some knocking at the rear, I think. Have already done the rear drop links, didn't help.

Here's the diagram:



It's the forked arm and the smaller arm number 17 I'm wondering about. Are either or both of these likely knock candidates? Maybe one of them is unlikely to cause knocks and I can skip it?

I'm going to have a look under the car and give things a shake. But that doesn't always give a clear indication.

Thoughts, anyone?

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by pothole

So, I'm hoping to refresh the suspension on the Box soon.

On the front axle plan to change both arms on each side. The smaller arms are pretty cheap, so seem like a no brainer.

On the rear, there's three arms a side, so I'm wondering whether I might get away with not changing all of the. I have some knocking at the rear, I think. Have already done the rear drop links, didn't help.

Here's the diagram:



It's the forked arm and the smaller arm number 17 I'm wondering about. Are either or both of these likely knock candidates? Maybe one of them is unlikely to cause knocks and I can skip it?

I'm going to have a look under the car and give things a shake. But that doesn't always give a clear indication.

Thoughts, anyone?

#8 is the top suspect for noises, #17 controls rear toe setting which is what wears the tires irregularly when worn. Alignment must be done after disconnecting any of these parts so if your car has more than70,K miles do everything now & save a little on the labor & 1 alignment charge instead of 2.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

#8 is the top suspect for noises, #17 controls rear toe setting which is what wears the tires irregularly when worn. Alignment must be done after disconnecting any of these parts so if your car has more than70,K miles do everything now & save a little on the labor & 1 alignment charge instead of 2.

Hello Bill,
Out of curiosity, would the rubber bushing on number 9 cause a clacking noise as well or just 'a loose feeling' on the suspension?
Regards,
Gilles

[com3dorm3]

Interested too. I also have a bit of clanking that can be heard a very low speed going over road imperfections. I did a visual inspection, even try to wiggle stuff when I put coilovers, but could not tell which bushings were worn. (60K miles)

[pothole]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

#8 is the top suspect for noises, #17 controls rear toe setting which is what wears the tires irregularly when worn. Alignment must be done after disconnecting any of these parts so if your car has more than70,K miles do everything now & save a little on the labor & 1 alignment charge instead of 2.

Thanks. Plan to do the work myself and money is pretty tight, so am trying to avoid replacing parts unnecessarily...

I'd love to replace the lot, obviously, as I'd hate to have to go back in if it's still knocking.

[thstone]

Sorry, but to do the job right, you'll have to replace 8, 9, and 17. Anything with a ball or bushing can be a potential problem.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Hello Bill,
Out of curiosity, would the rubber bushing on number 9 cause a clacking noise as well or just 'a loose feeling' on the suspension?
Regards,
Gilles

It would have to be really worn to make much noise Gilles, unless the nut loosened up.
But when it wears normally with mileage the whole rear "loosens up"

[Jager]

To eliminate the noises I had in the rear, I replaced the struts and the trail arms (part #8). Replacing the track control arms (part #9) did not do much to eliminate the noises I had.

[Coaster]

If you wanted to add more adjustment capability or account for a suspension change in the rear would you swap #17 with an adjustable one, like this?
Porsche Rear Toe Control Arm Link, 996, 997, 986 & 987

For the front it would be something like this?
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 996-341-941-01-OEM

Would any other parts have to be replaced to allow for greater alignment opportunity?

[BrokenLinkage]

and you have the clatter from the rear most notable at low speed over bumps and potholes, just replace #8 and the odds are Very good this will fix your problem. If you have access to a press, I have heard the inserts are hard to find, but out there, for big savings.
Or if no press available or you don't want the hassle, you can get the Vertex polyurethane rebuilds for a virtually permanent replacement - that costs less than oem and tightens the suspension a bit with No appreciable added noise.
This is very doable as a DIY, but getting access to the forward bolt with a torque wrench is somewhat difficult.
If this is all you swap out, and you don't face them inside-out, you shouldn't have to get an alignment unless you already needed one.
BOL

[Coaster]

Thanks, what about adding more adjustability to the suspension, will the replacement parts I linked above give you more than enough options to put in any camber you wanted?

[amondc]

#17 is the main cause for noise in the rear. Espically over light bumps in the pavement.