Stupid to buy used struts?

[stilov]

I've had my boxster for over a year and only put about 4000 miles on it. The struts are worn at 116k for sure.

I don't really need an upgrade, but obviously the used ones need to be price comparative. I wouldn't pay 500 to 600 for used ones.

What do you think if you are wearing your frugal hat?

[TeamOxford]

If you're on a tight budget and you need struts, buying used has to make sense.

I would think the best case scenario would be finding a low mileage set from a 986 owner that has upgraded to an RoW 030 suspension. Or someone who is turning a 986 into a Spec racer.

Just sayin'..........

TO

[stilov]

Oops. I've got an s. What
Sort of mileage makes sense? Should I worry about age?

[seningen]

Originally Posted by stilov

I've had my boxster for over a year and only put about 4000 miles on it. The struts are worn at 116k for sure.

I don't really need an upgrade, but obviously the used ones need to be price comparative. I wouldn't pay 500 to 600 for used ones.

What do you think if you are wearing your frugal hat?

Well I replaced my S struts at 100K with coil overs -- didn't seem worn at the time
but my S is a track car.

If you want them -- lmk - I'm headed to MSR Cresson this weekend.

PM with a fair price and I'll bring them with me. Got the coils too.

Mike

[san rensho]

How do you know the struts are bad? Oil leak? If you get the suspension bouncing and then release it, does it stop within one up or down movement or does it continue to bounce. If it keeps bouncing, the struts are bad. Any looseness in the strut, if so, it could be the bearing at the top.

I ask this because the struts are pretty robust. Mine are perfectly fine, they have 144k miles, don't leak, pass the bounce test and have no looseness.

[Steve Tinker]

San...
What you are describing - the bouncing test - may have worked on a softly sprung US car out of the 1960's but on the Boxster you are pushing down on some seriously strong springs. No way will you be able to get the car to bounce once or twice before it comes to a stop.
Most wear in a high mileage shock or strut is internal, and I bet if you were to swap out your 144k shocks for even 50k old ones you would feeling immediate difference in car response and roadholding.

[joe shmoo]

i have used struts that only did 39k easy street driving from previous owner that i'll sell at reasonable cost. but shipping to TX is probably going to be expensive.

[Topless]

Bounce test does not work and struts with more than 100k mile are totally shot. I thought mine were worn but serviceable until I went with PSS9s at 96k miles and got the old ones off the car. Zero dampening left in all but one. My brothers struts were nearly falling apart at 85k.

Used struts with good dampening might be worth a few bucks but a M030 kit is only about $1100 for fresh, all new sport-tuned suspension. If I were taking the time and effort to change them I would go M030 for sure.

[tanque55]

From my point of view I'd go new. The cost of the struts isn't that high and if you buy used you have to think they were changed for a reason.

[itsnotanova]

What's the paint codes on your struts and springs?

[stilov]

Not sure. It's a 2000 s model. I had it in a lift today. Definitely one blown shock and the others probably aren't far behind.

[thstone]

Same for me. When I replaced the original struts at ~100K mi with PSS9's they seemed to be working ok and passed the bounce test but after removal I found that I could push the shaft in and out by hand - they were toast!

As for buying used, if you can find some low mileage struts on the cheap, you might be able to get by. Its certainly not stupid, sometimes financially you have to do what you have to do.

[Viper10000]

I found these and am thinking about trying them out. My 2002 base is pushing 140,000 miles. My bump stops are rotted away and I think the upper bearings are shot. Going to replace those items first and maybe use these replacement inserts later. I see this post is a little old but figured I'd share this anyway.


Porsche 996 Boxster Strut Insert Shock Absorber: Steering and Suspension &amp Shock Absorbers and Struts

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Viper10000

I found these and am thinking about trying them out. My 2002 base is pushing 140,000 miles. My bump stops are rotted away and I think the upper bearings are shot. Going to replace those items first and maybe use these replacement inserts later. I see this post is a little old but figured I'd share this anyway.

Porsche 996 Boxster Strut Insert Shock Absorber: Steering and Suspension &amp Shock Absorbers and Struts

At 140K miles on the original shocks, they are ready for replacement.

Replacing the insert in a strut is common for some other cars and some older Porsche's. Nothing at all wrong there. Results and life depends entirely upon the quality of the insert. Vertex sells pretty good parts, so this would probably work quite well for a daily street driven car.

[EJ-Fresno]

Originally Posted by thstone

At 140K miles on the original shocks, they are ready for replacement.

Replacing the insert in a strut is common for some other cars and some older Porsche's. Nothing at all wrong there. Results and life depends entirely upon the quality of the insert. Vertex sells pretty good parts, so this would probably work quite well for a daily street driven car.

How difficult is it to replace the insert? Is it doable without a lift?
My 03 is turning 125K miles, so I am due for a struts job...
Thanks!

[dagdisco03]

I just noticed these the other day also. Trying to figure out how to refresh my suspension on a 2000 S with a little over 120K on the clock. I'm looking at doing all the bushings so I'm looking to save where I can. I wish they told you what inserts were being used since I doubt EPS has anything to do with making them they just relabelled someone's product. Looked easy enough to do. I used to swap inserts on other cars and it was fine but they sold them as inserts so you knew what you were buying. I'd love to hear if anyone has used these and what they thought.

[Gilles]

I would strongly recommend to do it right the first time.

Why don't you take a look at the $500 (German..) coilovers on the other post, you can't beat that price and since it is a bear to remove the rear struts, do it only once (the right way), then you have to align, etc.

You will not be sorry